Recipe of the week: A brown butter, sage and blue cheese omelet that tastes like fall
Fall tastes like pumpkin spice lattes, but it also tastes like brown butter and sage.
Sage is such a heavy herb that you don't often see it in salads and summer dishes, but frying those fuzzy leaves in butter until the butter starts to brown and the leaves start to crisp up is a quick way to make a rich sauce that complements so many other foods we tend to make in coming months. That might include including roasted chicken or winter squash or carb-heavy dishes such as mashed potatoes and hearty pastas, including ravioli, tortellini or gnocchi.
You could also take a page from John Whaite's new book, "A Flash in the Pan," which comes out on Oct. 1, to make a burnt butter and sage omelet. He uses a slightly sweet, blue-veined cow's milk cheese called Dolcelatte to add a kick to the dish, but any blue cheese would work, such as Gorgonzola. You could add another egg or two to serve a slightly bigger brunch crowd, but don't try to make this kind of omelet with more than 5 or 6 eggs. Instead, make several smaller omelets. Serve with freshly toasted bread and fruit.
Brown Butter, Sage and Blue Cheese Omelet
As far as I have encountered, there are two camps of omelet makers. In the first camp, the eggs are cooked gently over a low heat and fiddled with using a rubber spatula. There’s nothing wrong with that, but I find the eggs always end up a little rubbery when cooked in that way. I’m in the more traditional French camp, where the pan is allowed to get very hot before the eggs are added and then thrashed about until they set. This is a much quicker method and the result is a far more tender omelet.
— John Whaite
3 large eggs
1 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 sage leaves, roughly chopped, plus a few extra whole ones to serve
Fine sea salt
1 1/2 ounce Dolcelatte or other blue cheese, crumbled
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Set a large frying pan over a high heat and allow it to get hot. Meanwhile, crack the eggs into a mixing bowl, add a hefty pinch of salt and whisk until well mixed.
Put half the butter into the pan and allow it to melt and bubble fiercely. Add the chopped sage and toss about the pan, then throw in the beaten eggs. Keeping the pan on the heat, quickly shake the pan back and forth, which will drag the omelet all over the pan, like a rag blowing about in a gale. As the omelet sets, but maintains a little runniness, tilt the pan away from you, still shaking it, to coax the omelet to curl up in the edge furthest away from you. When it does, tip the omelet onto a plate while you fry the sage.
Return the pan to the heat and quickly throw in the remaining butter. Allow it to fizz and bubble and then burn, then add the whole sage leaves and fry until crispy. Pour the cooked butter over the omelette, and top with the crisp sage leaves. Finish with a scattering of crumbled cheese and some black pepper. Serves 1 to 2.
— From "A Flash in the Pan: Simple, Speedy, Stovetop Recipes" by John Whaite (Kyle Books, $24.99)