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Burger Time: Burger at 40 North

Matthew Odam
modam@statesman.com
The burger at 40 North might rival the pizza. [Matthew Odam AMERICAN-STATESMAN]

The grade: 8.5/10

Three-word review: Beefy, gooey, juicy.

The setting: Clint Elmore proved he could make some of the best pizza in Austin when he opened his trailer of the same name on South First Street in 2016. After a brief foray into a venture in Round Rock, Elmore set up shop in a bright, airy space some Austinites may remember from back in the day as Basil’s. Since opening, the restaurant has wisely moved to counter service, where you can order one of about a dozen pizzas, including a staple with Mike’s Hot Honey that dates back to the trailer, along with a few sandwiches and salads.

The burger: Elmore studied pizza making in Naples and worked at Paulie Gee’s in Brooklyn before moving to Austin a few years ago. Not sure from whom he took notes on the burger, but he done good. The extremely juicy and coarse textured patty made of Angus beef just holds together atop its gooey and waxy blanket of American cheese. The usually bossy red onion is almost undetectable amidst the savory dripper soaked up in a tawny, poofy bun flecked with sesame seeds, though the mustard aioli and pickles make sure you taste their tang.

Fries with that: 40 North offers chips or a side salad as accompaniment, and the salad delivers a nice acidic bite to counter the lush burger.

Price: $13.40

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday-Wednesday and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Thursday-Saturday

Location and contact: 900 W. 10th St. 512-660-5779, 40northpizza.com

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About Burger Time

This meaty piece of criticism is part of a recurring series of burger reviews. For Matthew Odam’s Top 50 restaurants in Austin, along with the rest of the Austin360 Dining Guide, visit austin360.com/eats.