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Three cookbooks worth buying this holiday season

Addie Broyles

If you find yourself at a bookstore this weekend (or maybe putting in that last Amazon Prime order), here are the three cookbooks I think you should consider buying for the foodie in your life.

Pappardelle with Smoked Salmon and Spinach

This is a comforting meal, ready in just a few minutes. If you don’t have cream, substitute sour cream or cream cheese. If you don’t have smoked salmon, substitute smoked trout or even tuna. No spinach? Use kale. No kale? Use peas. Or even steamed carrots, if that’s all you have. Add toasted chopped nuts to the bread crumbs if you want more crunch. Once you’ve made this a few times, it will become a go-to solution for a satisfying dinner. It is a perfect example of the practical pantry at work, and it is the dinner I crave on many cold, rainy Sundays.

— Cathy Barrow

3 to 4 cups baby spinach (or one 10-ounce package frozen chopped spinach)

1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

2 medium shallots, minced

1/2 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup chicken stock

12 oz. smoked salmon, flaked

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

8 oz. fresh or dried pappardelle

1/4 tsp. freshly ground white pepper

1/2 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

1 Tbsp. finely minced fresh chives

1 Tbsp. finely minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

Fill a large deep, pot with water, salt well, and bring to a boil.

Meanwhile, if using fresh spinach, fill a 3-quart saucepan with an inch or two of water and bring to a boil. Insert a steamer basket (or use a colander or sieve), add the spinach, cover, and steam until tender, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool, then squeeze the excess moisture out, pressing the spinach against the steamer or colander walls. Chop well and set aside.

In a large dry skillet, toast the bread crumbs until dry and golden brown. Remove and set aside.

Heat the butter in the same skillet until foaming, then add the shallots and cook until translucent. Add the cream, stock, spinach, white pepper, and nutmeg and simmer, stirring gently, until the

sauce thickens slightly. Add the salmon, stir well, and taste for seasoning, adding salt and pepper as needed.

Meanwhile, drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook according to the package directions. Drain the pasta, reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking water.

Add the pasta to the sauce and toss gently to coat. Add the cooking water if the mixture seems dry. Serve piping hot, with a scattering of the toasted bread crumbs and chopped chives and parsley. Serves 4.

— From “Mrs. Wheelbarrow’s Practical Pantry: Recipes and Techniques for Year-Round Preserving” by Cathy Barrow (W. W. Norton & Company, $35)