Owner Sam Hellman-Mass, one of the founders of Odd Duck, and executive chef and Torreón, Mexico, native Fermín Nuñez (formerly of Launderette) have made masa the backbone of their new restaurant, Suerte, whose name means "luck" in Spanish. They source locally and nixtamalize the corn in-house.

That is all thoughtful and good. But if it doesn’t taste great, the artisanal nature of the masa-making process only serves as a marketing angle or a lure for the breathless foodie.

The masa at Suerte tastes great, and that’s just part of what makes it the best restaurant to open so far this year in Austin.

Go to mystatesman.com to read Matthew Odam’s review and learn more about the modern Mexican cuisine you’ll find at this East Austin spot.