Recent James Beard nominee Alan Richman of GQ has penned an article calling out what he considers self-indulgent chefs, whom the highly regarded writer contends are cooking for themselves and not the customer. Richman says the style of this "egotarian cuisine" is indicative of chefs who express themselves "in an incomparable and triumphant manner."
He lists 9 indications that you may be eating at one of the restaurants that have fallen victim to this indisious diseases. Number 9? ""The chef explains that his cooking has ‘a story to tell,’ and it’s a romantic novel of self-love."
In the piece, Richman calls out several restaurants, but reserves some of his harshest criticism for Bryce Gilmore’s Odd Duck:
"At Odd Duck in Austin, I ate boudin-infused grits, an ice-cold pickled shrimp, grilled olives, and a fried pork rind. Together, on one plate." He goes on to call the dish at Odd Duck the absolute worst he ate all year.
Read Richman’s article on GQ here.
Read my review of Odd Duck in this week’s Austin American-Statesman.