(Credit: Adrienne Dever)

This restaurant has experimented with whole fried quails throughout its 28 months of existence. The dish has appeared on the menu in several iterations. I’ve had a cowboy comfort food version of the bird with buttermilk biscuits and pinto beans, and the last incarnation included blue cheese and homemade hot sauce. Of course, it’s homemade. Everything these guys do is homemade.

The most recent version, currently available at dinner for ($18) includes a creamy egg salad and a savory Japanese-inspired soy caramel, made on one visit with fish and lamb bones and on another with smoked chicken feet. The bird is dredged with pumpkin and sesame seeds and fried to a clean, crunchy finish in sunflower seed oil, with pickled jalapeno slapping some puckered tang on the dish.

MyStatesman.com readers click here to find out where to get this whole fried quail.