This week, restaurant writer Matthew Odam visits Thai food truck Dee Dee, which he says isn’t just good, it’s great.

From his review, which you can read in full at MyStatesman.com:

Whether it’s my age or my adaptability, over the past decade Thai food has become one of my great joys in dining. Even when you don’t understand precisely what’s going on in a dish, you can still appreciate the flavors and smells that come on in a psychedelic rush. I don’t need to understand physics or geometry to enjoy staring into a kaleidoscope, just like I don’t need someone to break down every ingredient of a Thai dish to marvel at the abundance of flavors. Sweet, sour, salty, bitter, spicy, savory, toasty, floral, herbaceous … a joyful culinary racket that finds harmony. Turn on, dip in and rock out.

That’s what I did recently at the Thai food truck Dee Dee with a dish of om gai ($10), tender hunks of chicken swimming in an herbaceous broth fragrant with lemongrass, spring onion and fish sauce and livened with Thai chili, dill and basil. It’s the dish that most reminds trailer co-owner Lakana Trubiana of home. And it’s exactly the kind of cooking Austin could use more of: dishes rooted in family and tradition from a chef with a story to share.