Spirits

A couple of crémes that rise to the top

By Michael Barnes
Web posted: Nov. 9, 2005

"It's not alcohol; it's Kahlúa," says the tippling, giggling mom played by Debra Jo Rupp on "That '70s Show."

No doubt, créme liqueurs such as Kahlúa and Bailey's Original Irish Cream — and older favorites such as créme de menthe (when was the last time somebody ordered a grasshopper?) — bear little resemblance to their brethren spirits. More desserts than intoxicants, crémes are often poured into frou-frou drinks to disguise the presence of alcohol — or, worse, any source ingredient.

Yet they play acknowledged roles in any well-stocked bar. And various crémes have made their way to our table recently.

The most appealing is Amarula Cream ($27.21), which reaches our shores by way of South Africa. It's a light, none-too-sweet créme, flavored with the marula fruit, which is not cultivated, but rather grows wild on trees in subtropical Africa. Elephants are particularly attracted to the oily fruit and nut, which explains the image of the African species on the label.

The yellow fruit, which is fermented and then oak-aged before mixing with cream, adds a tart note missing from so many crémes. A little ice loosens up the flavors, and Amarula makes a neat chaser for beer.

Another créme crossed my path recently. Now don't laugh: It's Starbucks Cream Liqueur ($22.99), launched in association with Jim Beam. It's actually quite pleasing, in a frothy Frappuccino way.

But what did you expect? Starbucks, for all its detractors, revolutionized the coffeehouse industry by introducing reliable, high-quality coffees and pastries, then candy, music and other consumables. The coffee-tinged créme is not available at its shops, but rather in bars, restaurants and liquor stores.

Note: In a Spirits column last month, I slipped by calling Knob Creek a Tennessee bourbon. Them's fighting words in Kentucky bourbon territory, which, ironically enough, I visited just this summer. I should have known better; many of our readers did.