Dining: Banderas: A Texas Bistro
At Banderas, a renaissance of food over atmosphere
By Dale Rice
American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
Web posted: June 22, 2005
Why is there such a disparity among high-end hotels when it comes to their restaurants? Some are among the best in the city, while others struggle and struggle.
The Four Seasons, Driskill and downtown Hilton have developed superior dining establishments, with the Café at the Four Seasons and the Driskill Grill among Austin's top five spots.
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Photos by Sung Park/AA-S
Based on the idea of tapas with local flavor, Banderas serves Diamond Ranch Bandera quail and prickly pear cheesecake, both excellent for a 2-star spot. Above right, chef Raman Natarajan. |
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BANDERAS: A TEXAS BISTRO 9721 Arboretum Blvd. (512) 795-6100 Hours: 6:30 to 11 a.m. for breakfast, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. for lunch, 5 to 10 p.m. for dinner daily, 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday for brunch. Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Diners, Discover Wheelchair access: Yes Wine: 35 by the glass ($7-$14), 90 by the bottle ($28-$110) Rating: 
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Now, the Renaissance is trying something new.
It closed Trattoria Grande four months ago and opened Banderas: A Texas Bistro in the atrium lobby of the hotel. The restaurant offers an intriguing menu, with all dishes served in tapas-style plates of smaller portions, with some available as full-sized entrees.
The fare of executive chef Raman Natarajan, with a single exception, was delightful, artfully presented and sophisticated. Yet the service and the lobby ambience -- with its ambient distractions -- can't keep pace.
The only weak point from a food standpoint was the first dish, the pulled pork tostadas ($6). The three small chips were topped with lackluster pork, a few crumbs of queso fresco and about a half-teaspoon of pico de gallo. There was neither value nor depth of flavor on that plate.
Our next item, the restaurant's signature dish, was on the other end of the spectrum. The Diamond Ranch Bandera quail ($8) reclined on a bed of salty, corn-pecan dressing. There was a finely diced fruit salsa and a tangy pomegranate sauce that further enhanced the flavorful little bird.
The Bibb lettuce salad ($6) was coated with a habanero-orange vinaigrette that delivered sweet, spicy and sour in perfect unison. It was topped with a few strands of roasted red bell pepper and three spears of Shiner beer-battered asparagus (I would use thicker asparagus, however, so the crust and vegetable are more balanced).
For the entree, the venison loin ($10 for the tapas version) produced four thick slices of rare, tender venison, poached baby pear and an ancho chili-honey reduction.
The lamb chops ($9 for the smaller plate) featured three small, delicious chops leaning against a pile of tart cranberry-pecan relish.
For dessert, the beautifully garnished prickly pear cheesecake ($5) was an individual dome of cheesecake -- colored pink, with a hint of the prickly pear flavor -- on a cake base.
The sweet potato pecan pie ($6) also was a winner, with a delicious filling that was not as saccharine as most pecan pies. It was accompanied by cut-out crusts, resembling an oil rig, that were held together by another cut-out star -- a fun presentation.
Now, if only service had kept pace with the food. Our young enthusiastic server made several missteps: He moved our bread plates in front of us when he brought the appetizers to share, rather than bringing extra plates; he didn't replace the plate and silverware following each course (even after the plate was covered in quail debris); he didn't ask how we wanted the venison and lamb cooked (bringing both in a state that would be too rare for many diners); and he brought coffee with dessert that had been in the pot so long that it had a sharp, burned taste.
The lobby ambience also degrades the dining experience. There was extraneous noise, such as brief interlude of laughing and shouting from guests and a hotel staffer rolling a big cart noisily across the lobby. Also, the tables encircle a buffet station. It might be tall, elaborate and copper-clad, but it's still a hotel buffet station, which doesn't help the atmosphere.
If Banderas had polished service and were located in the separate Trattoria Grande location with its lovely view and romantic aura, it could easily be a four-star restaurant.
With food that good, it's too bad the Renaissance otherwise botched the chance to become one more hotel with an outstanding restaurant.
drice@statesman.com; 445-3859
