Dining: Mirabelle
Variety is the spice that keeps Mirabelle's menu alive
By Dale Rice
American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
Web posted: May 18, 2005
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Photos by Larry Kolvoord/AA-S
Chef David Apthorpe keeps the menu balanced, such as with herbed lamb loin and panzanella salad, top, and pork tenderloin flautas, left. |
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MIRABELLE 8127 Mesa Drive (512) 346-7900 Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Mondays-Fridays, 5 to 9:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 5 to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover Wheelchair access: Yes Wine: 70 by the glass ($4-$9.75), 250 by the bottle ($12-$150) Rating: 
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While diners might not notice it as quickly, balance is also a crucial element in the menus of many — but not all — of the area's best eateries.
One that strives for that balance in menu items is Mirabelle, the upscale Northwest Austin bistro that has become one of the city's top restaurants.
That attention to equilibrium affects the creative process of executive chef David Apthorpe, who says it is easy for fish and shellfish to dominate appetizers "because they're so good in small quantities."
Consequently, he works hard to develop vegetarian and meat starters to complement the seafood.
"We try to keep a balance," Apthorpe says. "We try to cover all the bases."
One way he did that this spring is with the falafel ($6.95), which he used to replace a vegetarian goat cheese tartlet.
With fresh fava beans coming into season, Apthorpe created his version of the Middle Eastern falafel, which are fried croquettes normally made with ground chickpeas. He augmented the three falafels with a fresh tomato salad, red pepper hummus, white bean hummus, tzatziki (yogurt and cucumber sauce) and pita chips.
It's an appealing combination that pulls in Middle Eastern flavors with the traditional Mediterranean style that many Americans appreciate.
In the process, Apthorpe also created a vegan option (one that has no dairy or meat products). "That dish, minus the yogurt-cucumber sauce, is vegan-friendly," he says.
On the meat side, Apthorpe devised a pork flauta ($5.95), made with smoked pork tenderloin and paired with an avocado crema and a wonderful sundried cherry chutney.
In turning to the Mexican flauta, he was trying to avoid what he sees as another dominant trend: the Asian influence.
"Sometimes it's more of a challenge to find something that isn't Asian because the flavors are so recognizable and people are really drawn to them," he says.
For the entrees, Apthorpe's herbed lamb loin ($21.95) was marinated in oil, herbs and shallots and grilled. The tender meat was finished in the oven with an herb crust of fresh garlic, bread crumbs, parsley, rosemary, tarragon and mint and served with braised kale and a delicious bread salad that combined red peppers and olive bread.
The pork porterhouse ($18.95) featured a large, smoked chop that had been lightly coated with a roasted tomato barbecue sauce. It was accompanied by succotash, white cheddar grits and butternut squash marmalade.
For dessert, the lemon-orange tart ($4.95) returned to the menu after a couple of years' absence. It is a delightful confection that packs a lot of citrus flavor in an almond shortbread crust.
If that's not light enough, try the sorbet terrine with a tropical fruit salsa ($4.95). Four sorbets from Amy's Ice Cream — mango, pineapple, raspberry and coconut — are brought together in a colorful rectangle accented with a salsa of mango, kiwi, honeydew, berries and mint.
Even though it was a busy weekend night, the ambience at Mirabelle remained relaxed and welcoming.
Our service was exemplary, with a conscientious waiter who allowed us to pace the meal. A few tables away, however, one of my colleagues and her husband were encountering slow, inattentive service, a surprise at what has become one of their favorite dining spots.
Mirabelle is too good to allow even one server to have an off night and disappoint its regulars.
That underscores how important it is for a restaurant to constantly maintain a balance of food, service and ambience. We expect no less from an excellent place like Mirabelle.
drice@statesman.com; 445-3859
