Dining: Konstantino's

2 nations, one menu at Konstantino's

By Dale Rice
American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
Web posted: May 18, 2005

Photos by Deborah Cannon/AA-S Some of the Mediterranean specialties at Konstantino's are, clockwise from top left, the moussaka and souvlaki, grilled eggplant Parmesan, a trio of Greek desserts (baklava, foreground, galaktoburiko, left rear, and kataifi), and the Greek sampler.

One of the latest editions to the expanding cuisine of this city is Konstantino's, a lovely restaurant in a small strip center about 15 minutes beyond Austin-Bergstrom International Airport on Texas 71. It bills itself as serving "Thessalonika-style Greek dishes and New York-style Italian dishes," with the Greek food dominating the menu.

A good way to tarry over the Greek fare is with the tasty sampler platter ($10.95), offering eggplant dip, tarama (a classic Mediterranean dip made with carp roe), gyro (the traditional meat strips of combined beef and lamb), dolmathakia (stuffed grape leaves), tzatziki (yogurt and cucumber) sauce and pita bread.

The souvlaki ($13.95) features thick slices of marinated, grilled pork tenderloin with grilled peppers and onions, rice, tzatziki sauce and pita bread.

Greek desserts include baklava ($4.95), made with phyllo dough, honey and nuts, and galaktoburiko ($4.95), a confection with custard rolled inside the puff pastry.

Although the restaurant bills the Italian portion of the menu as "New York style," the eggplant Parmesan ($9.95) was closer to what I had recently in Italy than anything I've had in the United States.

Rather than being breaded and fried, like the typical veal or chicken Parmesan, this eggplant was thickly sliced, grilled and baked in a marinara sauce. It was topped with melted mozzarella cheese and sauce and served over a bed of fettucine Alfredo, which was lightly coated in the classic cream sauce.

The dish was good, but it could be even better. If the restaurant sliced the eggplant thinner and peeled it (thus eliminating the tough edge of skin), it would match the dish I had in Italy.

And the drive from my house in South Austin to have it would be worth every minute.

Konstantino's.
1412 W. Texas 71, Bastrop. 581-3232.
Rating: Forks up. Price: Moderate.