Dining
A Central Texas BBQ sampler
By Dale Rice | Photos by Mark Matson
Web posted: March 16, 2005
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How they do things at Ruby's: Patricia Mares and Luke Zimmerman (top right) put together nationally renowned brisket (tended in the pit room by Luke) along with sausage, chicken and pork ribs, then pair them with sides such as chunky mayonnaise potato salad and collard greens.
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As far as Central Texans are concerned, they're just pretenders to the throne.
When it comes to barbecue, we reign supreme.
Not only is the Austin area home to outstanding smoked meat, we dish it up in two styles -- sauced and unsauced -- to please the palates of aficionados on both sides of the fiery divide.
While the debate about whether to sauce might be new to South by Southwest visitors, it has raged on for generations -- and XL regularly keeps tabs on the results. One camp contends the best-tasting barbecue in Texas gets all the flavor it needs from the smoke of a fire. The other maintains that a good coat of dark liquid improves it.
The smoke-only tradition arises from the chuck wagon cooks of West Texas. They roasted meat over the open fire, but they didn't slather it in sauce. Saucing appears to have begun in Virginia, spread to the Carolinas and then headed westward.
In some ways, the battle over sauce is now a clash between East and West -- the Eastern United States and West Texas, that is.
So whether your feelings about sauce are based on regional loyalties or your taste buds, you can satisfy your barbecue cravings in Central Texas. Here are some favorites to get you started.
WORTH THE DRIVE
1. Cooper's Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que: There are eight pits outside the door at this acclaimed barbecue joint in Llano, where the pitmasters smoke big, thick pork chops (which they will dip in sauce at your request), jalapeņo sausage, brisket and ribs. 604 W. Young St., Llano, (325) 247-5713. www.coopersbbq.com.2 and 3. County Line: An Austin-based chain and the classiest of the local barbecue joints, County Line turns out some of the best beef ribs you can find in the area, as well as delicious chicken. Don't pass up the secret-recipe white bread with honey butter. County Line on the Hill, 6500 W. Bee Cave Road, 327-1742. County Line on the Lake, 5204 RM 2222, (512) 346-3664. www.countyline.com.
4. Kreuz Market: At this legendary joint in Lockhart, it's all about the meat, which comes wrapped in butcher paper you can use as a plate and which you eat with your hands (that's right, there's not a fork in sight). Try the lean beef shoulder, tender pork ribs and juicy sausage. 619 N. Colorado St., Lockhart, (512) 398-2361. www.kreuzmarket.com.
5. Louie Mueller Barbeque: Named one of the top 25 barbecue joints in the world by Steven Raichlen in "The Barbecue! Bible," Louie Mueller's in Taylor comes with a deep-smoked ambience to match the meat. The beef ribs are amazing, with tender, moist meat under a dark crust. Go early; they often run out of items by mid-afternoon. 206 W. Second St., Taylor, (512) 352-6206.
6 and 7. Salt Lick: The original, rustic spot in Driftwood gets my nomination for the best all-around barbecue experience. It might not have the best meat, but the all-you-can-eat platter is piled high with brisket, sausage and ribs, with sides of a vinaigrette-style cole slaw, beans and the Salt Lick's unusual potato salad. Salt Lick, RM 1826, Driftwood, (512) 858-4959. www.saltlickbbq.com. Salt Lick 360, 3801 N. Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360), 328-4957. www.saltlickthreesixty.com.
CLOSER TO HOME
8. Artz Rib House: The atmosphere might be laid-back at this barbecue joint that's a music venue as well, but there's no casual attitude toward the baby-back ribs. The small pork ribs are fall-off-the-bone tender, with a crisp, almost caramelized exterior and a juicy interior. 2330 S. Lamar Blvd., 442-8283. www.artzribhouse.com.
9. Iron Works: The atmosphere is as thick as the homemade barbecue sauce at this historic spot just east of the Austin Convention Center. Juicy chicken, peppery pork loin and moist brisket are among the combo-plate possibilities here. Dine inside or on the patio overlooking Waller Creek. 100 Red River St., 478-4855. www.ironworksbbq.com.
10. Ruby's: While there's plenty of traditional brisket, smoked chicken, sausage and pork ribs, this spot just north of the University of Texas campus also offers homemade dressings, a variety of beans, a chicken salad sandwich and vegetarian jambalaya. 512 W. 29th St. 477-1651. www.rubysbbq.com.
11. Sam's Bar-B-Que: This is the place for those who have a post-midnight hankering for barbecue. Until 2 a.m. Sundays through Thursdays and 3 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays, you can find a plateful of tender meat, including mutton, and homemade sides at this East Austin hot spot. 2000 E. 12th St., 478-0378.
12. Stubb's Bar-B-Q: Equal parts barbecue joint and music club, Stubb's serves a mean turkey breast, smoked on the bone for 16 hours before being pulled and cut, in addition to the typical barbecue offerings. Less-than-typical sides include serrano pepper cheese spinach and collard greens. 801 Red River St., 480-8341. www.stubbsbbq.com.
