Fonda San Miguel
Classics with a splash of new items
By Dale Rice
American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
Sept. 9, 2004
It's a challenge to chart a course for three decades in the restaurant business. How does an eatery stay fresh and appealing so customers won't desert it for new, trendy spots?
Some, such as Jeffrey's, focus on a daily changing menu to retain their sparkle. Others, such as Fonda San Miguel, rely on stability, serving well-honed classics that may not change much from year to year.
Both approaches work, but only when a restaurant is attuned to its customers. Give them what they want, and they will return.
Founded in 1975 by Tom Gilliland and chef Miguel Ravago, the restaurant doesn't rely solely on its history to bring those folks back again and again.
In the past year, the restaurant has undergone a remodeling, particularly striking in the entrance foyer and adjacent plant-filled lounge, that has it looking spiffy and appealing.
Fortunately, dramatic elements have not changed. Outstanding, original Mexican art still hangs on the walls of the dining rooms, where the ceilings still feature the ornate, perforated metal lights that decorate the adjacent surface with lighted patterns.
With subdued lighting, and the blue and terra cotta tones of the walls and ceiling, Fonda San Miguel quickly eases patrons into a relaxed evening of dining.
The exception to that -- a bustling Sunday brunch -- is about to have additional changes as well, according to the restaurant. Reopening Sunday after being shut down for more than a month, the brunch will feature new regional items that will change monthly. It is another way of infusing a classic event with an updated feeling.
For dinner, the appetizers were longtime standards: calamari ($8.95) and ceviche ($8.95). The ceviche, with small chunks of fish marinated in lime juice with tomatoes, onion and cilantro, was outstanding. With sweet, tender fish and a nice balance between the tart citrus and zesty cilantro flavors, this ceviche is one of the best in the city.
The calamari, on the other hand, introduced the first flaw of the evening. Although the large, lightly crusted rings of squid were tender, they were exceptionally oily from the frying.
The ensalada de nopalitos ($7.50) was the perfect antidote for that. The small pieces of marinated cactus, which had been combined with cilantro, onions and tomatoes, were served with strips of a traditional Mexican cheese, producing both a delicious and a visually appealing item.
One of Fonda San Miguel's classics, the chile relleno de picadillo ($18.50) featured a large poblano pepper stuffed with a finely shredded pork filling and resting on a bed of tomato sauce. Beautiful and tasty, the relleno was accompanied by white rice and black beans.
The mixed grill ($28.95) offered an enticing array of items: a frog leg, sweetbreads, quail, beef and sausage. Four of the five were perfectly cooked and succulent. The fifth, the sausage, produced the second flaw of the night related to oil: a puddle of grease. From an aesthetic and taste standpoint, the sausage could easily be jettisoned from the lineup. The grill was served with cactus salad and guacamole, supplying a refreshing secondary element.
Service that night was adequate, attentive enough to refill near-empty water glasses but not enough to make a diner feel special.
The finale returned to Mexican classics: tres leches cake ($4.95) and crepas de cajeta ($7.50). The yellow cake, a daily special made with three kinds of milk and topped with peaches, was moist and enticing. The crepes, swathed in goat-milk caramel and topped with caramel ice cream, have deservedly been on the menu for years.
Those desserts illustrate Fonda San Miguel's recipe for success: Stick mainly with the old favorites, but offer a few new items to inject a sense of freshness on the side. By doing that, Fonda San Miguel has remained one of Austin's premier restaurants for nearly 30 years.
drice@statesman.com; 445-3859
