ACL

10 great places to eat, just 10 minutes from the Fest

By Dale Rice
American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
Sept. 16, 2004

There's no place that says "Austin" more loudly than Zilker Park, site of the Austin City Limits Music Festival.

And within 10 minutes of Zilker -- east or west -- there are 10 restaurants that embody the Austin spirit, from laid-back casual to fine dining.

Some require a drive; others are within walking distance. Either way, they'll supply fare as melodious as ACL.

Photo by Brian K. Diggs/AA-S

Bistro 88

2712 Bee Cave Road; 328-8888; 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Mondays-Fridays, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sundays; 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 5:30 to 10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays, 5:30 to 9 p.m. Sundays.

A four-star restaurant, Bistro 88 combines European and Asian cooking techniques and ingredients. Chef-owner Jeff Liu's creative flair is showcased in dishes such as miso sea bass, featuring a fillet grilled in a miso-ginger-sake sauce and served with dry-sautéed green beans with garlic and asparagus-mushroom risotto in a fried wonton cup.

Photo by Mark Matson/AA-S

Baby Acapulco

1628 Barton Springs Road; 474-8774; 11 a.m. to midnight Mondays-Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Fridays-Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sundays.

A classic Tex-Mex restaurant, Baby Acapulco has an extensive menu of old favorites, including one of Austin's favorite bowls of tortilla soup with its seasoned, lightly spiced broth packed with pieces of chicken and melted cheese. In addition to the standbys, try the hongos rellenos: mushroom caps mounded with chorizo.

Photo by Alex Jones for AA-S

Chuy's

1728 Barton Springs Road; 474-4452; 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays.

A Mexican restaurant with a New Mexican twist, Chuy's serves an appetizer platter that could be a meal for two moderately hungry diners, with nachos, chicken flautas, chile con queso, guacamole and a bandito (a fried whole-wheat tortilla enclosing cheese and green chiles). If you're still hungry, feast on the Chuychanga, a fried burrito stuffed with chicken and green chiles.

Green Mesquite

1400 Barton Springs Road; 479-0485; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays.

Its official name says it all: The Green Mesquite Barbeque & More. The barbecue part covers the smoky gamut from tender brisket to moist chicken, from spicy sausage to flavorful pork ribs. The "more" brings in fare beyond the traditional barbecue fire, such as tacos, chef salad, chicken fried steak, catfish and po' boys.

Photo by Amber Novak/AA-S

Kerbey Lane Cafe

2700 S. Lamar Blvd.; 445-4451; open 24 hours daily.

If the traffic is heavy, it might take slightly more than 10 minutes to reach Kerbey Lane Cafe. But if you're yearning for breakfast food -- at dinnertime or in the middle of the night -- it's the place to head. Kerbey Lane, one of Austin's laid-back originals, serves pancakes the size of plates. They may be large, but they're still flavorful, light and cooked completely in the center. In addition to pancakes, the restaurant serves an eclectic menu that includes egg dishes, salads, sandwiches and pasta.

Romeo's

1500 Barton Springs Road; 476-1090; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays.

Tasty Italian fare and good pizza play equal roles at Romeo's. Pasta dishes include many flavorful items, such as the tortellini with prosciutto, mushrooms and peas in a cream sauce. On the pizza front, Romeo's is one of the few in town offering a saltwater topping with its shrimp pizza. The soft crust holds grilled shrimp with pesto, roasted garlic, sun-dried tomatoes, red onion, red peppers, pepperoncini and smoked mozzarella.

Photo by Marla Brose for AA-S

Shady Grove

1624 Barton Springs Road; 474-9991; 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays.

Burgers and hot dogs are the ultimate festival food, so if you long for one in a restaurant setting stop by Shady Grove. The green chile cheeseburger is super, while the chili dog (three halves of all-beef dogs topped with what must be the equivalent of a bowl of spicy all-beef chili, chopped onions and shredded cheese) is a tasty treat. Besides the indoor seating, there's a large patio -- where else? -- under a shady grove of trees.

Texas Land & Cattle Co.

1101 S. MoPac Boulevard (Loop 1); 330-0030; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays.

Combining a relaxed approach with upscale touches that take dining beyond the typical mid-level chain, Texas Land & Cattle Co. is a Dallas-based enterprise that feels like it could easily be based here. Mesquite-grilled steaks lead the beef lineup, but there are plenty of other options, including chicken and fish, for diners looking for lighter fare.

Uchi

801 S. Lamar Blvd.; 916-4808; 5:30 to 10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5:30 to 11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays.

Of the new, upscale sushi spots that have been sprouting across Austin in recent years, Uchi is the best. It's a stage for Tyson Cole, the talented chef who rose to the No. 2 position at Musashino, one of the top sushi restaurants in Texas. Although his raw fish is superb, those who shy away from sushi should try Cole's casa roll of chicken salad enclosed in seaweed.

Wanfu Too!

1806 Barton Springs Road; 478-3535; 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. daily.

In a 1950s-style place that previously housed several failed restaurants, Wanfu has established longevity with good Asian fare and late hours. The portions are generous, and the food is tasty. The chicken in garlic sauce features white meat cooked with thin strands of wood ear mushrooms, water chestnuts and chopped red peppers in a light brown sauce, with enough garlic and peppers to keep the sizzle going for a long time after it has left the stove.

drice@statesman.com; 445-3859