Castle Hill Café

Tastes as bold with a more elegant look

By Dale Rice
American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
Oct. 7, 2004

The flavors were just as bold, the elements as complex. But there was an alteration -- perhaps subtle to some diners -- that left at least two longtime fans wondering what had happened in the kitchen.

The entrees at Castle Hill Cafe were more artistic, more visually appealing.

That change in presentation signals a more dramatic shift behind the scenes: Co-owner David Dailey, executive chef since the day the doors opened two decades ago, is stepping back into more of a supervisory role and leaving the day-to-day operation to the new chef de cuisine, Arik Williams.

For Dailey, dynamic flavor has been paramount.

Castle Hill Café
1101 W. Fifth St.
(512) 476-0728
Hours: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday to Friday, 6 to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 6 to 10:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays
Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover
Wheelchair access: Yes
Wine: 44 by the glass ($4-$10.50), 81 by the bottle ($9.75-$135)
Rating:

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Williams is not "overfussing," but he is modernizing the look, making it a bit more elegant.

It's part of a huge challenge: "how to make things better yet keep them the same," as he put it.

"I think Castle Hill has a long, great tradition in the city," says Williams.

He says he doesn't want to lose that tradition of bold flavor and bright colors. But he admits his French-inspired training is finding its way to the plate in the rejuvenated appearance of the dishes.

Williams, who just turned 32, managed the kitchen at Houston's for five years before attending the Texas Culinary Academy. He worked at Mirabelle during school and after graduation, moving to Castle Hill in June.

He says he still wants to appeal to that core group of diners who adore the over-the-top complexity the restaurant is known for, at the same time he wants to reach newer diners by focusing the plate more. Still, he says, "A little bit of chaos is fun."

While his main course items were complex, they were far from chaotic.

The herb-crusted beef tenderloin ($22.95) -- topped with crisp, fried onion strips -- was served with a creamy garlic sauce, mashed potatoes, green beans and a sharp white cheddar butter. The elements provided layers of flavoring and varied textures, a hallmark of Castle Hill, without the significant spiciness that has distinguished the restaurant's dishes.

That also was true of the pecan-crusted, molasses-glazed pork tenderloin ($17.95). The flavor layering here was produced by a powerful "redeye gravy" -- a sauce made from coffee, red beans, garlic, bacon and cream -- along with outstanding savory grits, green beans and a pickled relish that supplied both color and contrast.

While those entrees underscored the change at Castle Hill, the other parts of the meal reflected the tradition.

From a long list of appetizers that change infrequently, the mushroom and chicken liver pate ($3.95) was smooth and creamy. The curried lamb empanadas ($5.95) delivered sufficient flavor without the cilantro-yogurt sauce, while the disks of fried goat cheese needed the ancho chile-spiced tomato chutney for added interest.

Both entrees were served with salads, but there was a noticeable change here, too: There was a $1.50 charge for a salad, which had been included in the cost of the main course previously and which had contributed to making the restaurant one of the top fine-dining bargains in town.

Speaking of a switch, this was -- surprisingly -- the first time that I had a server at Castle Hill who had not tasted some of the dishes and thus could not fully describe them.

And, finally, in the name of change, I'm ready for some new desserts at Castle Hill. While the peanut butter pie ($4.95) and mocha toffee torte ($5.75) were thick, rich, flavorful wedges of moderate sweetness, it's time to modernize those confections I've consumed repeatedly over the years. Perhaps that's the next thing Williams can tackle.

Overall, Castle Hill Cafe remains one of Austin's strongest restaurants. Adding a spark in the form of chef Williams may ignite some new interest without lessening the cuisine that has built its reputation.