Carrabba's Italian Grill

Chain side-steps predictability for a zestier result

By Dale Rice
American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
March 4, 2004

When it comes to chain restaurants, the multi-course menus are frequently unidirectional: all downhill.

They begin with good appetizers, move to acceptable entrees and end with mediocre desserts.

But it doesn't have to be that way, and one place that should be able to break that pattern is Carrabba's Italian Grill, a chain that originated in Houston and now has dozens of outlets from New Hampshire to Nevada, including two in Austin.

The restaurant was launched by Johnny Carrabba and his uncle, Damian Mandola, the founder of Damian's Cucina Italiana, one of Houston's most reputable fine-dining spots.

Although Outback Steakhouse Inc. took over the national franchise rights a decade ago, that shouldn't have doomed Carrabba's to chainocrity; Outback has invested heavily in other high-quality dining operations, such as Roy's.

But unlike Roy's, Carrabba's does follow the chain pattern. However, it starts higher and slides less than the typical chain.

At the Carrabba's in Lincoln Village near Highland Mall, the appetizers -- fried calamari and steamed mussels, both of which require care -- were excellent.

The calamari ($6.99) were perfectly cooked. Not only did they have a crisp, nongreasy exterior and tender interior, the crust was highly peppered, giving each bite of squid a lingering zing.

The mussels ($8.99) were steamed in white wine accented with basil, Pernod and lemon butter, creating soft morsels in a rich sauce overflowing with flavor.

Carrabba's Italian Grill
6406 N. Interstate 35 (Lincoln Village)
(512) 419-1220
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday, noon to 11 p.m. Saturday, noon to 9 p.m. Sunday
Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Diners, Discover
Wheelchairs access: Yes
Wine: 33 by the glass ($5-$8.50), 37 by the bottle ($19-$58)
Rating:

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The salads (complimentary with the majority of entrees and $2.99 with the pasta specialties) were large, with better-than-average dressings and crisp greens. The Caesar was coated with the tangy traditional, while the house salad had a creamy Parmesan and the Italian was dressed with vinaigrette.

The entrees were good overall, but two didn't have the same level of flavor or quality as the starters.

The eggplant Parmesan ($11.49), which was served with penne pasta with a tomato sauce, featured lengthwise slices of the vegetable baked with mozzarella and Romano cheeses. Unfortunately, the eggplant was tough and stringy and there was very little cheese between the slices, while the penne was undercooked (and that comes from someone who prefers his pasta al dente).

In the pollo Rosa Maria ($14.99), a roasted chicken breast stuffed with fontina cheese and prosciutto and topped with a basil-lemon-butter sauce, the meat was dry.

In contrast, the veal Marsala ($14.99), which was topped with a wine sauce and mushrooms, was tender and flavorful, while the mezzaluna ravioli ($10.99) -- filled with chicken, spinach and ricotta -- were perfectly cooked (al dente, of course) and wonderfully coated with a tomato cream sauce.

Then the meal dropped another notch with desserts that were average.

The dessert Rosa ($4.99) was a square of yellow cake layered with fruit (bananas, strawberries and pineapple), a pastry cream with the consistency of vanilla pudding and whipped cream.

The chocolate dream ($5.49) was a brownie topped with a thin icing of chocolate mousse, with a dollop of whipped cream and a drizzling of chocolate sauce.

The tiramisu ($4.99), the traditional Italian confection of liquor-and-espresso-soaked lady fingers and mascarpone cheese, was the best of the three.

While the menu could use an uplift as it progresses, service never declines. At Carrabba's, families in particular are big winners, with a comfortable ambience that welcomes them.

On the first of two visits, we were dining with a toddler, and our waiter immediately asked if he could bring something for the little tyke, a move made all too infrequently based on the complaints I get from parents. He also was careful not to serve hot food over the child, a maneuver that can be dangerous with children who can reach and grab fast.

The restaurant also had many highchairs available (three were in use between our table and an adjacent one) and had crayons, placemats to draw on and toys for the kids.

That level of service was one more example of why Carrabba's Italian Grill should be a chain of choice for Austin diners.