Cafe Bleu
Taking lakeside dining to a new level in Volente
By Dale Rice
American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
June 10, 2004
Teak tables and chairs fill the large wooden deck that sits about 12 feet above the water on the northern shoreline of Lake Travis. Arched awnings span most of the deck, sheltering the majority of occupants from the midafternoon sun or the occasional shower.
With the sides open to the elements, though, there is an unobstructed view of the sunset that turns the sky orange above the rolling hills of the opposite shore. Those who sit along the edge of the deck can watch the water echo the colors of the setting sun or look skyward to see the heavens awash in stars.
It's the perfect time for dining. The hot day has moderated. The breeze is virtually nonstop. An occasional cloud passes the sliver of moon that sits not far above the horizon.
But the gentle lap of the waves a few feet below is hard to hear. This deck is filled with people in an upbeat mood who are laughing, talking and, frequently, swaying to the beat of the music.
It should fare well throughout the seasons.
Fred Geesin, who was the chef at Gilligan's for several years and most recently opened Zin American Bistro & Bar on West 38th Street, has taken over the kitchen at Cafe Bleu. Six weeks into the job, his prowess already is evident, particularly with the entrees.
The grilled beef tenderloin ($19), perfectly cooked to order (medium-rare), was stacked on top of a base of mashed potatoes covered with sautéed vegetables. A sweet-pepper demiglace sauce added a hearty accent to the tender and flavorful beef.
A large, thin fillet of catfish ($13) was crusted lightly with tortillas, producing a crisp exterior and a moist interior. It was served over a bed of couscous and a colorful Napa cabbage slaw.
The grilled pork tenderloin ($16), which was as tender and tasty as the beef, was highlighted by a balsamic-cumin glaze that gave it both sweetness and spice. The pork was accompanied by sautéed vegetables and excellent sweet potato-rum pancakes, a starch that only occasionally comes to the dinner table in Austin.
Among the appetizers, one stood out: the mixed shellfish ceviche ($9). The chopped shrimp, scallops and crabs were combined with a mango pico de gallo that included chunks of the sweet fruit and finely diced jalapeños. Served in a martini glass with a garnish of fried plantain strips, it was a delightful way to begin the meal.
The appetizer sampler for two ($12) contained the restaurant's four signature starters, all of which were fine but nothing special.
The buttermilk-soaked calamari rings, which had been dusted with yellow cornmeal and Southwestern spices, were tender with a crisp crust.
The Asian-influenced red chili marinated pork wraps presented chunks of not-so-tender meat with julienne cabbage in lettuce leaves.
The crab cake had a large proportion of shellfish, but it was very thin, while the small triangles of chicken and yellow pepper quesadillas didn't offer much flavor.
As Geesin finds his rhythm, I'm sure those appetizers will move forward.
To finish the meal, the desserts -- which are not made in-house -- were acceptable, although my two companions and I preferred the dense triangles of brownie served with ice cream ($5) over the small slice of key lime pie ($5).
Service at Cafe Bleu was relaxed and friendly, with a sufficient number of waitstaff to handle the crowd.
Cooking lakeside, where all the supplies must be brought down a steep hillside via a tram, is a challenge. But it's one that Geesin is more than qualified to tackle. He's taking waterside dining to a new level.
drice@statesman.com; 445-3859
