Dining: Andiamo
Greeted like family, served like company at Andiamo
By Dale Rice
American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
Web posted: Dec. 22, 2004
Family is the essence of Andiamo. It's the reason the eatery is in Austin. It embraces the long-term relationship of the staff. And family underscores the way the owner welcomes guests to his tables.
Earlier this year, Giovanni Cocciante sold his highly regarded Bellissimo Restaurant in Fairfax, Va., -- a place that attracted presidents and movie stars -- to move here, home to his wife's family.
Cocciante's chef, John Borga, who has worked with him for nearly two decades, packed up and moved his family to Austin as well.
Photos by Brian K. Diggs/AA-S At Andiamo, attention to details shows in the way customers are greeted by Giovanni Cocciante, top center (with chefs Jose Lara, left, and John Braga), and in the rack of lamb over polenta, center, and Zoppa di Pesce with seafood. |
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Andiamo 2521 Rutland Drive; 719-3377 Hours: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays, 5 to 10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Diners, Discover Wheelchair access: Yes Wine: 7 by the glass ($4.50-$5.50), 90 by the bottle ($25-$200) after obtaining a liquor license Rating: 
Dec. 23, 2004 Reviews: • Andiamo • Hog Island Italian Deli More In Restaurants: • Complete Restaurant Reviews • Austin360 Foodie Board • Girl Walks Into A Bar |
Ever-present in the dining room, Cocciante effervescently moves among the tables, answering questions about the menu, making sure that patrons are enjoying themselves and, frequently, snatching plates from the waiters' hands to serve the guests himself.
His actions are reminiscent of many small trattorias in Italy, where the owners are welcoming hosts and make diners feel they are far more than just another check in the night's lineup of receipts.
Best of all: Andiamo's classic fare is delectable, instantly making it one of the top Italian restaurants in the area.
In the carpaccio di carne ($6.95), disks of paper-thin raw beef -- topped with shaved rectangles of Parmesan cheese -- encircled a mound of chopped arugula with vinaigrette dressing, forming an artistic (and delicious) presentation of the traditional dish.
However, it was the crostino di polenta e calamari ($6.95) that had us riveted to the plate. Sautéed rings of squid -- each piece a tender morsel -- rested on a mound of soft polenta covered with tomato sauce. It brought together three standards of Italian cooking in a dish that was unexpectedly appealing.
For the second course, the night's special ravioli ($15.95) were stuffed with ground veal and presented in a sauce of shiitake mushrooms, cherry tomatoes, garlic and olive oil. The handmade pasta was perfect -- in texture, taste and appearance -- and demonstrated the skill at work in the Andiamo kitchen.
In the main course, the gamberi Bocelli ($16.95) featured shrimp stuffed with crabmeat and wrapped with prosciutto in a white wine sauce. The tender shrimp, accented with the contrasting salty prosciutto and sweet crab, were served with piped mashed potatoes and matchstick carrots with a sweet glaze.
The vitello Sorrentina ($16.95) produced a veal scaloppine crowned with thin slices of prosciutto, eggplant and fontina cheese in white wine with a touch of tomato sauce. Served with the same piped potatoes and carrots, the veal was another classic dish that wedded tender meat and disparate flavors in a dish that was unifyingly tasty.
The salad ($7.95) -- eaten Italian-style, after the entrees -- combined shaved fennel, crumbled goat cheese and chopped walnuts with lemon juice and white truffle oil. The truffle oil emitted a heady aroma, yet it was subtle in taste and didn't overpower the other ingredients.
For dessert, the tiramisu ($5.50) alternated thin layers of sponge cake and thicker layers of mascarpone cream in a lighter take on the traditional confection, while the zabaglione ($6), a Marsala-based custard served with strawberries, was wonderfully creamy.
With the staff following Cocciante's lead of working hard to please the customers and a white-linen ambience, with fresh flowers and votives on the tables, Andiamo strikes a high note in all facets of dining.
Kinship may have brought Cocciante to Austin, but Andiamo will produce a grateful extended family that will revel in the enjoyment his restaurant provides.
drice@statesman.com; 445-3859
