Red River Cafe

Relaxed eatery hooks 'em with simple, tasty fare

By Dale Rice
American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
April 22, 2004

When I consider dining near the University of Texas campus at lunchtime, I envision crowded restaurants full of noisy, hurried students.

But head to the other end of campus from the busy "Drag" and you can find the opposite. At Red River Cafe, which is actually on Medical Arts Street less than 50 yards from Red River Street, it was easy to find a table around 1 p.m. in a setting where college students and older folks alike seemed to be seeking a more relaxed pace.

The food fit the ambience as well: simple, tasty fare that was reasonably priced.

One of the entrees, the chicken breast ($6.95), was stuffed with cream cheese and topped with sauteed mushrooms. Among a choice of sides, it was served with a delicious, homemade chicken-rice soup that was thick with big pieces of onion.

The patty melt ($3.95) was a good burger served on toast with cheese and grilled onions.

The seasoned home fries ($2.95) featured chunks of potatoes sprinkled with jalapeño slices and covered with melted cheese. While the pepper gave it a little kick, the potatoes could have used a little more seasoning to boost the flavor.

Whether it's breakfast or lunch, wrap up with a slice of homemade key lime pie ($2.25), with its smooth, tart filling (a pale green rather than the neon color of most commercial versions) topped with whipped cream.

With its laid-back feel, Red River Cafe is the perfect place to linger over a piece of that pie.