McCormick & Schmick's

A seafood stalwart flounders a bit

By Dale Rice
American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
April 22, 2004

It aims to do for the bottom what the jagged, lighted crown did for the top: draw attention to the new Frost Bank Tower in downtown Austin. Located on the ground floor of the distinctive building on Congress Avenue between Fourth and Fifth streets, McCormick & Schmick's Seafood Restaurant already delivers, frequently pulling a substantial crowd.

McCormick & Schmick's brings a big name to the city; it is one of the best-known seafood chains in the nation. It has built its reputation around a substantial menu of fresh fish that changes twice daily: lunch and dinner.

All of that day's fish -- along with the location where they were harvested -- are printed at the top of the menu. Most can be simply grilled and served with lemon butter or they can be prepared as listed -- such as the cashew-crusted tilapia with Jamaican rum butter. Following the suggested preparations leads to a wealth of flavors and cooking techniques.

McCormick & Schmick's
401 Congress Ave.
(512) 236-9600
Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday to Friday, 4 to 11 p.m. Saturday, 4 to 10 p.m. Sunday
Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover
Wheelchairs access: Yes
Wine: 12 by the glass ($4.75-$12), 80 by the bottle ($20-$120)
Rating:

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Two other starters, on the other hand, underscored the kitchen's inconsistency. The oysters ($8.75), which were coated in cornmeal, had a crisp and dry exterior with a melt-away center. They were served over a roasted pepper aioli with a side of colorful Asian-influenced slaw.

While the thick rings of calamari ($9.80) were tender -- one significant test of a kitchen -- the outside coating (formed of seasoned flour) was mushy and greasy, with little of it adhering to the squid. It seemed as though the frying oil had not returned to a high-enough temperature after something else had been cooked, thus failing to produce a crisp, even breading.

The faulty dish, which was served with three dipping sauces that included a tasty sweet-biting duo in the form of orange marmalade with horseradish, undermined the refined feel of the restaurant's initial offerings.

For the main course, the large sea scallops ($20.80) were served over a bed of spinach atop a risotto cake, while a thick halibut filet ($22.85) with a balsamic glaze rested on pancetta-saffron risotto. The moist halibut was good, but the seared scallops received the most praise around the table.

The messiest entree I have tackled in a long time, the pan-roasted shellfish ($18.90), combined a melange of mussels, clams, shrimp, crab claws and calamari (which the menu did not mention and which is not a shellfish, but which was delightful in the dish). Cooked in a thick, chunky, amazingly spicy tomato sauce, they were served with no sides. Those who enjoy a high dose of spice will find the seafood appealingly tender; those who don't like a scorching sauce should stay away.

The desserts again brought inconsistency to the table.

The upside-down apple pie ($5.25), with a scoop of Amy's cinnamon ice cream and the crust drizzled with caramel, was fine. But the large crème brûlée ($5.25), which placed a thick layer of chocolate ganache under the traditional custard, was not universally firm. Parts of the custard were as runny as a crème anglaise sauce.

And while our service on a night when the restaurant was half full was smooth, colleagues and friends have complained repeatedly (including one a week after I ate there for the review) about poor service.

The atmosphere features a strong presence of stained glass, including art deco chandeliers, sconces in the shape of armadillos and decorative scenes over the bar. If you ignore that and concentrate on the pressed copper ceiling and dark wood walls and trim, the restaurant has an overall elegant feel.

That illustrates the dichotomy that still plagues McCormick & Schmick's two months after opening. Give them a few more months to work out the kinks, and the Frost Bank Tower should be one of the best places in town for seafood.