XL Cover Story

Pack Light

10 places to go camping (within two hours or less)

By Pamela LeBlanc
Wednesday, November 22, 2006

Jonah Wilson was the first to teeter off a wobbly rock and fall into the river. The 7-year-old got wet, and his friends got envious.

Pretty soon, Teddy Starnes and Alex Carmichael, also of Cub Scout Pack 725 of Glen Rose, went in the drink, too.

But let the record show that, later that night, when a couple of the boys' Scout leaders added some drama to a campfire story-telling session by firing up a real chainsaw, Jonah and his buddies didn't scream. At least that's their story, and they're sticking to it.

Ah, the joys of camping.

And fall, when the broiling temperatures of summer have cooled and the leaves are tinged with gold, is the best time to venture into the Hill Country, tent tucked under one arm and a sack containing marshmallows, chocolate and graham crackers under the other.

"It's getting away from all the stuff that's going on," says Patrick Locke, one of the leaders of Pack 725. "You lose track of time. You spend 3 or 4 hours doing absolutely nothing and have a great time doing it."

We know what he means. When we struck out to find the best places to pitch a tent within a two-hour drive of Austin, we found plenty of places to do absolutely nothing — and have a spectacular time doing it.

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BASTROP STATE PARK

Bastrop is one of the first parks my family discovered when we moved to Austin from Michigan in 1969. It's also the site of what's referred to as the Great Brisket Incident, in which my dad tried to cook a brisket, steaklike, on the grill in just 45 minutes (we now know it takes hours). The brisket might have been chewy, but my sisters and I were more interested in belly-sliding down pine needle-strewn hillocks at the park than we were in eating.

I still love the park, situated on 5,926 acres in the Lost Pines, less than an hour's drive east of Austin. For one, it offers a great home base for my favorite bike ride — the hilly, 12-mile stretch of Park Road 1C between Bastrop and Buescher state parks. (No off-road biking is allowed in the park.)

The park opened in 1937 and was expanded in 1979. Camping is beneath a canopy of pines unmatched in these parts. Or stay in one of the cabins built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s. (Reserve well in advance.) There's even a swimming pool and an 18-hole golf course.

What sets it apart: A forest of pine trees, in Central Texas?
Highlights: Access to some of the best biking around. Plus, those awesome pines!
Lowlights: Busy in good weather. Highway noise.
You might not know: Bastrop State Park has its own orienteering course. Bring a compass and pick up a map at park headquarters.
Amenities: Restrooms and shower facilities; 78 campsites, some with water/electric; 50 primitive backpack sites; 13 cabins; dump station.
Camping fees: Start at $12 per night, plus $4 per day per adult.
If you go: One mile east of Bastrop on Texas 21. (512) 321-2101.

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BLANCO STATE PARK

For swim freaks like myself, Blanco State Park holds a place of honor. While families flock to the cemented-off pool adjacent to the upper dam, we head to the westernmost fringes, where we can enjoy long, uninterrupted swaths of neck-deep, bluish-green water. In all, the park borders 1 mile of spring-fed river.

Of course, there are the snakes. Last May, one hopped off the bank in front of me, ruining a postcard-perfect tour of Central Texas swimming holes.

Campsites are bunched together within earshot, but there is a small herd of llamas in a pen nearby to distract you. Sites have covered picnic tables, restrooms are tidy and there's a lovely covered stone pavilion built by the Civilian Conservation Corps.

What sets it apart: A (slow-flowing, warm-water) river runs through it ...
Highlights: Fabulous stretch of river if you want to get some laps in.
Lowlights: Snakes. Lack of privacy in campground.
You might not know: An Internet hot spot, right in the middle of the campground. (Check at headquarters.)
Amenities: Restroom and shower facilities; 29 campsites, some with water/electric; seven screened shelters; dump station.
Camping fees: Start at $15 per night; plus $3 per day per adult.
If you go: Take U.S. 290 west to U.S. 281. Turn left, heading south to Park Road 23. The park is four blocks south of the Blanco town square. (830) 833-4333.

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COLORADO BEND STATE PARK

When I opened my tent flaps and saw nothing but the Colorado River and a huge limestone escarpment, I figured I'd found camping nirvana.

But that didn't really come until later, when we hiked to Spicewood Springs, a watery wonderland of bubbling springs and crystal clear pools inside the park. We liked the springs over the much-touted Gorman Falls, which you can only reach through a guided tour. The falls are nice with their fern-covered ledges and dripping travertine walls, but during drought conditions they're less impressive.

Colorado Bend is an old fishing camp situated along the banks of the Colorado River about 30 miles from Lampasas. We brought along a kayak for exploring. In the spring, it's popular with anglers, who go there for the white bass run.

What sets it apart: Camp right by the river. Watery pools, waiting to be explored.
Highlights: Hiking to Spicewood Springs. A lot of tiny frogs by the river!
Lowlights: Camping sites on the upper deck offer no privacy; opt for a riverside walk-in site.
What you might not know: You can only tour Gorman Falls through a guided tour at 10 a.m. or 2 p.m. Saturday or 10 p.m. Sunday. Cost is $5. Cave tours also available. Check at headquarters.
Amenities: Composting toilets; no showers; 38 campsites; plus primitive camping.
If you go: From U.S. 183 in Lampasas, take FM 580 west 24 miles to Bend and follow the signs 4 miles to the park entrance. (325) 628-3240.
Camping fees: Start at $7 per night for primitive and $12 for walk-in; plus $3 per day per adult.

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ENCHANTED ROCK STATE NATURAL AREA

The best time to visit this iconic Hill Country destination is on a crisp, clear winter day. Start by scampering up the giant pink granite dome, but don't stop there. Explore some of the hiking trails that loop around the batholith (an underground rock formation uncovered by erosion.)

The 1,643-acre natural area is a mecca for Central Texas climbers, who on nice weekends can be seen dangling from rock faces on the back side of the main rock and clambering up formations in the canyon alongside it.

If the main campground seems too much like the suburbs, consider hiking to one of the primitive areas around back for some peace and quiet — and good views of the circling turkey vultures.

What sets it apart: Where else can you explore a 425-foot hump of granite that covers 640 acres?
Highlights: The view from the top; rock climbing.
Lowlights: Some treacherous terrain; big crowds.
You might not know: Tonkawa Indians thought the dome was haunted by ghosts who were responsible for strange creaking and groaning sounds. Geologists attribute the noises to the expanding and contracting of the rock with the heating and cooling of the day.
Amenities: Restroom and shower facilities; 45 developed campsites, plus 60 backpack primitive sites.
If you go: Located 18 miles north of Fredericksburg. 16710 Ranch Road 965, Fredericksburg; (325) 247-3903.
Camping fees: Start at $8 for backpack sites and $12 for walk-in; plus $6 per adult per day.

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GUADALUPE RIVER STATE PARK

Crowded with tubers in the summer, Guadalupe River State Park takes on a more serene personality in the fall, when the focus turns from floating to hiking and toasting marshmallows.

That river, though, is a thing of beauty. Huge cypress trees, towering pecans and cottonwoods shade the bottomlands around it, and even if it's nippy out you'll be tempted to shuck off your shoes and go wading. Across the water are some of the prettiest limestone bluffs you'll ever see, giving this scenic bend in the river a protective, cozy feel. In all, there are 1,938 acres to explore and 4 miles of riverfront.

Another cool thing? If you've got a horse, you can bring him along (current proof of a negative Coggins test required) to help explore 5.3 miles of trails that loop through cedar and oak thickets.

What sets it apart: Beautiful, shaded river park, equestrian trails.
Highlights: Campsites fairly separated, nestled among trees.
Lowlights: Hour-and-a-half drive from Austin; crowded with tubers on summer weekends.
You might not know: The park is adjacent to the Honey Creek State Natural Area, where you can take a two-hour guided tour ($2 per person/$5 per family donation suggested) at 9 a.m. Saturdays.
Amenities: Restroom and shower facilities; 90 campsites, some with water/electric; dump station.
If you go: From U.S. 281, drive west 8 miles on Texas 46 to Park Road 31; 3350 Park Road 31, Spring Branch; (830) 438-2656.
Camping fees: Walk-in sites start at $12 per night; plus $6 per day per adult.

•••

INKS LAKE STATE PARK

I caught my first fish at Inks Lake State Park, using a hook and a slice of American cheese. Thirty years later, I did a triathlon there. In between, I've visited the 1,201-acre park oodles of times.

Inks is one of the seven Highland Lakes created in the 1930s. The park opened in 1950, and is a great place to rent a canoe and explore the constant-level lake. You can even take a canoe tour of the Devil's Waterhole, an inlet of the lake surrounded by pink granite formations that look like they were created by a giant's Play-Doh machine.

Camp sites on the new side of the campground are more secluded than the original campground. There's also a nine-hole golf course.

What sets it apart: Gorgeous pink granite outcroppings.
Highlights: Canoe rentals; touring Devil's Waterhole.
Lowlights: Original camping area is cramped; park is well-loved.
You might not know: The Burnet Tri-Hard Challenge, a sprint-distance triathlon, is staged here every September.
Amenities: Restrooms and shower facilities; 206 campsites, some with water/electric; screened shelters.
If you go: The park is 9 miles west of Burnet. Take Texas 29 to Park Road 4. Go south 3 miles to park headquarters; 3630 Park Road 4 West, Burnet; (512) 793-2223.
Camping fees: Start at $8 for backpack sites and $12 for developed sites; plus $4 per day per adult.

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KRAUSE SPRINGS

You can't tell it from the grass parking lot, but an oasis of lush ferns and bubbling water awaits.

Krause Springs, long known as one of the best swimming holes in Central Texas, also offers fabulous camping. Besides, the prettiest times here are after the day trippers have gone home.

To get to the tent-pitching mecca, pass the big butterfly garden and the pavilion and settle in at one of the shady camping slots at the top of the ridge. Or keep going until the gravel road curves down to Cypress Creek, which eventually opens onto Lake Travis. From your new home base, you can hike back to the pool area, where you can clamber over the wide limestone bank, spread out a towel and hop in the water. Paddle under the downspout of a crashing waterfall or retreat into the water-filled grotto behind it.

Elton Krause bought the property, 34 miles west of Austin in Spicewood, from relatives in the 1960s. In the 1970s, he turned it into a private park with stone picnic tables. This year, he added shiny new restrooms.

What sets it apart: Are we in Hawaii?
Highlights: Climb onto the Volkswagen-sized boulder next to a towering cypress tree, grab the rope and swing out over the pool.
Lowlights: Water gets murky in drought periods.
You might not know: The site, once a campground for American Indians, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Amenities: Restroom and shower facilities; 24 sites with full hookups; tent camping.
If you go: Take Texas 71 west from Austin. Turn right at Spur 191 in Spicewood. Turn right on County Road 404. The park is on your left; (830) 693-4181.
Camping fees: $5 for children 4 to 11; $8 for adults.

•••

McKINNEY FALLS STATE PARK

I've celebrated two birthdays — about 25 years apart — at this 640-acre park. The first was with my family when I was 12 or 13; the more recent was just a couple years ago, with my husband.

This park is located a slingshot's throw from the airport, and although there's the occasional buzz of traffic or a plane flying overhead, the insects and rushing water can be just as loud.

You can practically see the water carving its way through the rock at the lower falls, where dozens of smooth, twisting "gutters" send water from Onion Creek over a rocky ledge into a pool 10 or 12 feet below. The upper falls are more placid, with a small stream spilling into a pool. The heavily traversed Rock Shelter Trail leads to a limestone overhang carved out by the creek eons ago and used by American Indians for shelter. Two other longer trails are worthy of exploration.

What sets it apart: A woodsy respite with impressive falls just 15 minutes from downtown Austin.
Highlights: You're there before the kids can ask 'How long 'til we get there?'
Lowlights: Airport and road traffic; campsites bunched together.
You might not know: The park is named for Thomas F. McKinney, one of Stephen F. Austin's first 300 colonists. He moved to Travis County in the 1850s, built a private track and became a prominent race horse breeder.
Amenities: Restroom and shower facilities; 89 campsites, some with water/electric; six screened shelters; dump station.
If you go: The park is located southeast of downtown Austin off U.S. 183; 5808 McKinney Falls Parkway; (512) 243-1643.
Camping fees: Start at $12 for walk-in sites and $16 for developed sites; $37.10 for screened shelters; plus $4 per day per adult.

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MULESHOE BEND RECREATION AREA

If you don't want the guy in the next campsite over to know what you're cooking for dinner, you need someplace with a lot of room to spread out.

That would be Muleshoe Bend Recreation Area, where chances are you won't even see the folks at the neighboring site. Of course, you won't see hot showers or flushing toilets, either. The charm of the 983-acre park, though, is its less developed, more rustic nature. You can camp along the shore of Lake Travis or pick a spot nestled farther back in the trees.

And bring your mountain bike, because Muleshoe boasts a 6.5-mile jaw-jarring, rollicking trail where you can offset the calories from the s'mores that you toast over the stone-lined fire pit.

What sets it apart: Wide open spaces along the upper reaches of Lake Travis.
Highlights: Secluded campsites, great mountain bike trails.
Lowlights: Chemical toilets. Yuck.
You might not know: Named for a bend in the river that looks like a mule's shoe.
Amenities: Drive-in camping, no hookups.
If you go: Take Texas 71 west to Paleface Ranch Road. Turn right and drive 4.5 miles to County Road 414. Turn right and follow the road to the park entrance; (800) 776-5272.
Camping fees: $5 per vehicle.

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PEDERNALES FALLS STATE PARK

This was a favorite family destination when I was a kid growing up in Austin. We loved to plop ourselves down on the limestone rock and let the gushing Pedernales part around us. The falls area has been closed to swimmers and waders since 1977 because of hazardous conditions, but it's still a great place to bask like a lizard on a boulder as you soak up the scenery. Plus, there's a designated swim beach 2 miles down-

river.

Bring your hiking boots, too, because there's 20 miles of hiking and biking trails to scamper along. Horses are permitted on some trails at the 5,211-acre park, which opened in 1971. There's also a bird blind where you can spy on feathered friends.

The tent camping sites are a mixed bag — some are tucked in cedar groves, others are secluded by stands of oak. But some look naked and sun-baked, and offer no privacy.

What sets it apart: The falls, where the Pedernales slides down slabs of limestone as wide as a football field, look like they were created by a giant palette knife.
Highlights: Room to roam, epic Hill Country scenery.
Lowlights: Summertime crowds, lack of privacy at some campsites.
You might not know: The namesake Pedernales Falls drop 50 feet in elevation over a 3,000-foot stretch. The limestone here was tilted upward, then eroded away millions of years ago.
Amenities: Restroom and shower facilities; 69 campsites with water/electric; dump station; hike-in primitive camping.
If you go: From Austin, take U.S. 290 west about 32 miles to FM 3232. Drive north for 6 miles; 2585 Park Road 6026, Johnson City; (830) 868-7304.
Camping fees: Start at $10 for hike-in primitive sites and $20 for hookups; plus $5 per day per adult.