XL Food & Drink: The Sampler Plate

50 brief reviews from restaurant critic Dale Rice

From American to steakhouses and everything in between

By Dale Rice
AMERICAN-STATESMAN RESTAURANT CRITIC
Wednesday, October 04, 2006

AMERICAN

Freddie's Place. This South First Street restaurant is packing them in with live music and a popular happy hour, relying mostly on old favorites. The menu includes a good chicken-fried steak and burger, with old-fashioned sides such as green bean casserole and homemade onion rings. Forks up. Cheap. 1703 S. First St. 445-9197.

Hoover's Cooking. Old-fashioned comfort food — meatloaf with a spicy tomato sauce, fried catfish, chicken-fried steak, barbecued chicken — with sides in the same vein: pinto beans, green beans with bacon, brightly colored cole slaw, macaroni and cheese, mashed potatoes. Homemade desserts — pecan pie, coconut cream pie, blackberry cobbler — offer a familiar sweet touch. Forks up. Cheap. 2002 Manor Road. 479-5006.

Scholz Garten. Built in 1866, this has been a popular rendezvous for generations of Longhorns fans. For lunch, try the barbecue combo plate (with lean brisket and moist smoked turkey) or the tender jägerschnitzel with German potato salad and red cabbage. Forks up. Cheap. 1607 San Jacinto Blvd. 474-1958.

Shady Grove. An ideal spot for an indoor-outdoor luxury picnic. The menu offers all-beef dogs nestled in a toasted sesame-seed bun and topped with spicy all-beef chili, chopped onions and shredded cheese. Other specialties include the green chile cheeseburger and frings, a basket of onion rings and crispy hand-cut fries. Forks up. Cheap. 1624 Barton Springs Road. 474-9991.

Tony's Southern Comfort Restaurant. Owned and operated by the family of chef Tony Herring, this casual spot features a relatively limited menu strong on frying and old-fashioned fare. The chicken-fried steak, fried catfish and homemade desserts are good choices. Forks up. Cheap. 1201 E. Sixth St. 320-8801.

AMERICAN BISTRO

Baxter's on Main. It was a pleasure to discover this fine-dining restaurant on Bastrop's historic main street. Baxter's turns out a tasty rib-eye, hand-cut in-house, nice fish dishes and good appetizers. Top them off with an amazingly rich, pecan-crusted crème brûlée. Moderate. 912 Main St., Bastrop. (512) 321-3577.

Houlihan's. Just the kind of place city officials would want next to the Austin Convention Center. It offers welcoming service, generous portions and a rooftop bar with a great view. Standouts include the fried mushrooms stuffed with herb-and-garlic cream cheese, the prime New York strip steak, babyback ribs, grilled shrimp and mini desserts. Moderate/expensive. 309 E. Third St. 474-5757.

The Range at Barton House. This upscale restaurant resides in a lovely historic structure in the center of Salado. The food, however, doesn't always match the setting. Items that did rise to the occasion included lobster bisque, warm field greens salad, the surf and turf entree and two desserts: the warm chocolate cake and the housemade sorbets. Expensive. 101 N. Main St., Salado. (254) 947-3828.

Reed's Jazz & Supper Club. With a combination of boisterous bar and tranquil, sophisticated dining, Reed's has set itself apart from the competition in Northwest Austin. Very good dishes include the steak tartare, calamari, Reed's salad, sea scallops and chocolate bread pudding. Expensive. 9901 N. Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360), Building 1, Suite 150. 342-7977.

The Veranda. Modest prices and an extensive menu — 43 entrées plus Tex-Mex specialties, burgers and more than 20 salads — mark this new restaurant on the north side of Northcross Mall. Tasty items include the chicken liver pâté, hummus, quail in pineapple-ginger sauce and tuna Oscar topped with creamy crab and asparagus. Moderate. 2525 W. Anderson Lane. 300-2660.

ASIAN

Dragon Gate by Phoenix. Proves that the spice route isn't the only road to good Asian food. The restaurant's delicate egg flower soup and chicken with pine nuts are delicious without being zesty, as is the hibachi chicken dinner. The restaurant also delivers good sushi. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 3801 N. Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360), No. J-180. 732-7278.

Noodle-ism. Launched by Jeff Liu, the founder of the four-star Bistro 88. Try the Sichuan beef (with a spicy broth that takes eight hours to prepare), the nabeyaki udon (seafood with noodles in another spicy broth) or the 'just wonton,' with a perfumed broth packed with sliced beef, chicken, shrimp and several large wontons. Forks up. Cheap. 107 W. Fifth St. 275-9988.

BARBECUE

Iron Works. History and location (next door to the Austin Convention Center) complement some pretty darn good barbecue that includes tasty beef ribs, brisket, sausage, chicken and pork loin. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 100 Red River St. 478-4855.

Meyer's Elgin Smokehouse. A tribute to family tradition that's as strong today as it was in the early 1900s, this is a classic Texas barbecue joint. In addition to the sausage that has made the Meyer's name famous, diners can feast on brisket, pork ribs and turkey breast that are just as tasty as the links. Forks up. Cheap. 188 U.S. 290, Elgin. (512) 281-3331.

Pok-e-Jo's. The Fifth Street location is a rustic makeover of an auto repair shop. The old signs are nostalgic and the University of Texas memorabilia is fetching. The condiment bar (sliced onions, hamburger dills, jalapeños, dill spears and sauce) was a nice touch. Combination plates include tender sliced beef, flavorful pork ribs, beef ribs and Pok-e-Jo's homemade sausage. Forks up. Cheap. 1603 W. Fifth St. 320-1541.

BURGERS

Mike's Pub. Located in the parking garage across the alley from the Stephen F. Austin Hotel, Mike's has a popular lunch special: basic cheeseburger, half order of limp fries (still sizable) and a drink. You might even run into the governor. Forks up. Cheap. 108 E. Seventh St. 479-6424.

Poodie's Hilltop Bar and Grill. Everybody refers to it simply as 'Poodie's,' but that name isn't visible from the highway, where the sign advertises Hilltop Bar and Grill. It's a classic Texas honky-tonk with a basic burger that'll have the paper wrapping soaked within a minute. Perfect accompaniment for a longneck. Forks up. Cheap. 22308 Texas 71 W., Spicewood. 264-0318.

CAFES

Hill's Cafe. Still comfortably casual, the new Hill's has a big menu that harks to the South Austin of yesteryear: baskets of mostly fried appetizers, burgers, steaks, barbecue, specialty plates such as chicken-fried steak and lots of homestyle veggies. The smoked turkey and brisket were tasty, as was the chicken-fried steak (coated in cracker crumbs and sautéed, rather than deep-fried). Forks up. Cheap. 4700 S. Congress Ave. 851-9300.

Kerbey Lane Cafe. When breakfast food beckons at 7 p.m., stop by this 24-hour spot that also serves a broad range of chicken dishes, sandwiches and salads. Still, if there's one place Kerbey Lane excels, it's the plate-sized pancakes. Forks up. Cheap. 2700 S. Lamar Blvd., 445-4451.

CHINESE

China Dynasty. This longtime restaurant in the strip mall at Slaughter Lane and Manchaca Road serves dishes with a simple grace. Kung pao chicken, spicy shredded beef and pork with garlic sauce, each lightly coated in sauce, were delicious. Forks up. Cheap. 2110 Slaughter Lane, Suite 101. 280-3777.

Marco Polo Chinese Restaurant. Finally, I've found a Chinese buffet I can recommend, with a large lunch selection and seating for a sizable crowd, though it's more expensive than most. The selections held up well on the steam table, thanks to the kitchen's smart choices and small-batch cooking to frequently replenish items. Forks up. Cheap. 2200 S. Interstate 35. 445-5563.

CONTINENTAL/FRENCH

European Bistro. This Pflugerville bistro serves primarily Hungarian food, along with a smattering of other items from that region of the world. Delicious fare includes Russian pierogis, hen soup, goulash soup, jägerschnitzel, chicken with a paprika-sour cream sauce and crêpes with sweetened cheese and cranberry marmalade. Moderate. 111 E. Main St., Pflugerville. 835-1919.

Jeffrey's. With new bistro selections featuring smaller portions and prices, Jeffrey's is working hard to be more than a special-occasion place. Executive chef Alma Alcocer-Thomas is doing her part with a baby arugula salad with blue cheese and peach vinaigrette, venison loin with pistachio custard and hanger steak with a sweet paprika chimichurri sauce. Expensive. 1204 West Lynn St. 477-5584.

DELIS

Hog Island Italian Deli. Send your tastebuds to the Northeast by devouring sandwiches popular in that part of the country. Hog Island offers a great Philly cheese steak, with melted cheese, shaved beef and grilled onions on a soft bun, and tasty hoagies featuring a variety of Italian cold cuts, such as mortadella and soppressata. Forks up. Cheap. 1612 Lavaca St. 482-9090.

Katz's Deli. A virtual institution in this city, the 24-hour deli continues to serve good food. In addition to the thick sandwiches and a good burger, try some of the dinner specials, such as the open roast beef sandwich or the half roast chicken (both with two sides). Forks up. Cheap. 618 W. Sixth St. 476-3354.

INDIAN

Swad. An Indian vegetarian restaurant that can please even meat-eaters with its spicy and flavorful food. Don't-miss dishes include the samosa (stuffed pastries) and the dosa (stuffed lentil crêpes). Forks up. Cheap. 9515 N. Lamar Blvd., No. 156. 997-7923.

ITALIAN/MEDITERRANEAN

Andiamo. The classic fare is delectable, making this one of the top Italian restaurants in the area. Outstanding options at the restaurant at Burnet Road and Rutland Drive include sautéed calamari over soft polenta, veal-stuffed ravioli in a mushroom sauce, fennel salad with white truffle oil, shrimp filled with crab and wrapped with prosciutto and veal Sorrentina with eggplant and fontina cheese. Moderate. 2521 Rutland Drive. 719-3377.

Brick Oven on 35th. A small, quiet, neighborhood restaurant, this Brick Oven is an independent franchise of the Austin original. But it serves equally good food, including the multigrain-crust pizza, which is baked in a wood-fired oven, and pasta dishes such as spinach ravioli and fettuccine Alfredo. Forks up. Moderate. 1608 W. 35th St. 453-4330.

Hill Country Pasta House. This spot near Mansfield Dam can satisfy your craving for good Italian fare. The thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas and classic pastas fill the plate with traditional Italian food that's fairly hard to find in Austin. Forks up. Moderate. 3519 RM 620 N. 266-9445.

Pronto Italiano. Its name might conjure up the image of fast food, but Pronto Italiano prepares most dishes to order. There are classic items, such as hearty spaghetti with meatballs and lasagna, and a variety of combination pasta dishes, from Mediterranean to Cajun, as well as wood-fired pizzas. Forks up. Cheap. 3620 RM 620 S. 263-7404.

Taverna Pizzeria and Risotteria. The first of the dining spots in the new Second Street shopping and entertainment district, Taverna is leading the area in the right direction. It offers a mix of classic and modern Italian cuisine, including tasty focaccia, fried calamari, balsamic risotto with chicken, and pasta with pear and Gorgonzola. Moderate. 258 E. Second St. 477-1001.

Vespaio. Turning out Italian dishes that are a cut above expectations, mixing tradition and innovation as easily as salt and pepper. Seductive fare includes the spaghetti carbonara (with handmade pasta), wood-fired Toscana pizza (with housemade sausage), polenta-stuffed pork loin and gnocchi with duck. Expensive. 1610 S. Congress Ave. 441-6100.

KOREAN

Koreana. Part of the explosive growth in Asian restaurants with sushi bars, Koreana is a sophisticated spot in far North Austin. The beef rib bulgogi and classic Japanese Katsu (made with chicken breast) were delicious, as were the Korean condiments and miso soup. Moderate. 12196 N. MoPac Blvd. (Loop 1). 835-8888.

MEXICAN

Dario's Restaurant. Treats diners with equally good attitude and food. Fine lunches include green chicken enchiladas with rice, beans and guacamole, and the señorita special, with a crispy beef taco, guacamole salad and a cheese enchilada with chili con carne. The queso is tasty, too. Forks up. Cheap. 1800 E. Sixth St. 479-8105.

El Jacalito. Not the most familiar Mexican place in Austin, but popular with those who know about it. An extensive lunch menu, including an especially enjoyable dish of pork and zucchini in a red sauce with vermicelli. Forks up. Cheap. 2030 E. Oltorf St., Suite 110. 445-4109.

El Meson. Knows how to ply the taste buds, particularly with dishes like squash blossom quesadillas, pipian (shredded chicken in a pumpkin-seed sauce), shredded beef enchiladas and the pork al pastor, cooked with tiny cubes of pineapple. Forks up. Cheap. 5808 Burleson Road. 416-0749.

El Patio. Simple, good and consistent since 1954. Appetizers include nachos and guacamole. Entrees include enchiladas, chalupas and tacos. For dessert, pralines with coconut and sherbet. Forks up. Cheap. 2938 Guadalupe St. 476-5955.

La Vista at the Hyatt Regency. Nails two vastly different styles — continental and Tex-Mex. On the Tex-Mex side, the eatery is famous for its fajitas, serving an average of 1,000 pounds a week of the thin strips of beef cut from the flap steak. Items such as beautifully seared scallops emphasize the continental influence. Moderate. 208 Barton Springs Road. 477-1234.

Mi Madre's. For those who think all enchiladas are the same, try the No. 1 dinner, or any other plate that includes enchiladas with a 'red' sauce. The sauce, which is actually dark brown, is rich in flavor, with the very essence of chiles stimulating each zesty bite. Other good items include the chicken quesadilla and the tacos at this breakfast-and-lunch place. Forks up. Cheap. 2201 Manor Road. 322-9721.

Mi Rey. As reliable a spot as you'll find in the long string of Mexican eateries on East Seventh Street. Lunch plates to return for include the carne guisada, cheese enchiladas with chili con carne sauce and the chile relleno stuffed with beef. Forks up. Cheap. 1505 E. Seventh St. 476-4211.

Rosie's Tamale House. Operating on Texas 71 in Bee Caves for the past 33 years, Rosie's is a good example of the variations on a Tex-Mex theme. Tasty choices include the combination platters, such as the No. 1 with guacamole, crispy beef taco, queso, enchilada, tamale, rice and beans. The chicken enchiladas with the thick, zesty verde sauce are delicious. Forks up. Cheap. 13436 Texas 71 W., Bee Caves. 263-5245.

Taqueria la Tapatia. This Jalisco-style restaurant presents a variety of meats in different forms — tacos, tortas, burritos, tostadas, quesadillas. The chips are served with two sauces, a thin red salsa of tomatoes, onions and cilantro and a spicy green sauce. The beef fajita taco, made with a soft flour tortilla, enclosed small pieces of chopped skirt steak topped with shredded lettuce and slices of tomato. Forks up. Cheap. 1333 W. Ben White Blvd. 707-1585.

PIZZA

Bud & Walt's Square Cut Pizza. Cousins Andrew Hoeft and Ryan Rogers make pizza the old-fashioned way that Walt did. They cut the vegetables, season the sausage and beef and produce the dough and sauce from scratch. The result is an excellent pie, with a cracker-thin, crisp crust, a rich tomato sauce and generous portions of cheese and other toppings. Forks up. Moderate. 251 N. Bell Blvd., Cedar Park. 336-8686.

Marye's Gourmet Pizza. The BST brings together great potential with spinach, bacon, Roma tomatoes, red sauce, Cheddar, smoked provolone and low-fat mozzarella. But the underripe Romas were baked under the cheese, allowing a lot of moisture to accumulate. Fortunately, the crisp, bland crust was able to stand up to it. Forks up. Moderate. 3663 Bee Cave Road. 327-5222.

SEAFOOD

Mariscos Seafood Restaurant. In Mexico, the union of seafood and spice takes a mild main ingredient and turns on the heat with cilantro and serranos. A great example of that style can be found at Mariscos, which features a wide variety of seafood, including shrimp, octopus, oysters and a whole fried catfish (served with french fries and coleslaw). Forks up. Cheap. 1504 Town Creek Drive. 462-9119.

SOUTHWESTERN

Castle Hill Cafe. The longtime Southwestern bistro that has been running without a hiccup for years continues to meet high expectations. Dishes that won't let you down include the lamb empanadas, pork and chicken dumplings, fried goat cheese and the pecan-sage crusted pork loin with grits and a vegetable chow-chow. Moderate/expensive. 1101 W. Fifth St. 476-0728.

Iron Cactus. This modern Mexican restaurant is much-improved, with sophisticated cuisine found at few other places in the area. Appealing dishes include the ahi tuna ceviche, carne asada con adovo (thin slices of zestily seasoned prime sirloin) and Yucatán fish tacos. Try the delicious refried black beans. Cheap/moderate. 10001 Stonelake Blvd. 794-8778.

STEAKHOUSES

Backstage Steakhouse. They might call it Backstage, but chef Raymond Tatum's food deserves a spotlight. Vibrant dishes include the crab cakes, the jalapeño corn cake with crawfish, the spinach salad with poached pears and goat cheese, the rack of pork with pineapple chutney, and the prime strip steak served with onion rings. Moderate/expensive. 21814 W. Texas 71 in Spicewood. 264-2223.

Dan McKlusky's. The shrimp cocktail with cucumber-corn relish and the fall-apart blue crab cakes were excellent starters at this bustling, friendly Sixth Street spot. The certified Angus beef tenderloin could easily be cut with a fork, and the strip steak was coated with black peppercorns and topped with cognac cream sauce. For dessert, try the individual apple cake, baked in a mason jar. Expensive. 301 E. Sixth St. 473-8924.

Saltgrass. Named after the legendary trail that longhorns followed from the Gulf Coast to market. The certified Angus steaks — 7-ounce filet and 12-ounce rib-eye — were tasty and tender, as was the cheesesteak sandwich. Sides and salads, including the baked sweet potato with cinnamon butter, were good, too. Forks up. Moderate. 2300 N. Interstate 35 in Round Rock. 238-0091.