XL Food & Drink: The Sampler Plate

50 brief reviews from restaurant critic Dale Rice

From American to steakhouses and everything in between

By Dale Rice
AMERICAN-STATESMAN RESTAURANT CRITIC
Friday, October 13, 2006

AMERICAN

Cafe 1626. A popular family spot with a video game arcade. The burger/pizza joint on Manchaca Road, 1 1/2 miles south of Slaughter Lane, offers good burgers, subs, lasagna and a moderately priced, all-you-can-eat pizza buffet. Forks up. Cheap. 11600 Manchaca Road. 440-1626.

Springhill Restaurant. This well-rounded spot can fry up a storm — from chicken-fried steak to some of the best onion rings in Central Texas — or grill a tasty entree, such as catfish. Forks up. Cheap. 13212 Texas 71 W. 263-3244.

Stagecoach Inn. The historic inn is in fine form, still producing its signature dishes from the 1940s. The four-course meals include an appetizer such as shrimp cocktail or fruit cup, a salad such as tomato aspic or fruit, tasty entrees with generous portions of sides and desserts (the signature is the strawberry kiss with meringue, ice cream and strawberry sauce). Forks up. Moderate. 401 S. Stagecoach Road in Salado. (254) 947-5111.

Texadelphia. This local chain started across from the University of Texas in 1985 and has built its reputation on a single sandwich — the 'cheesesteak' — and its chile con queso. Other offerings include burgers and Italian subs, chicken salad and veggie sandwiches. Forks up. Cheap. 2000 S. Interstate 35. 804-0804.

AMERICAN BISTRO

Mars. A good stop on virtually any dining trajectory. The tandoori pork tenderloin was tender, flavorful and still moist. Potstickers, hummus and spring rolls made a good start, while the crème brûlée and homemade ice cream were a good finish. Moderate. 1610 San Antonio St. 472-3901.

Saba Blue Water Cafe. Launched around the idea of serving small plates meant for sharing, Saba has moved beyond appetizer fare, including mahi mahi with a lemongrass cream sauce and grilled bananas and pepita-crusted chicken with goat cheese bread pudding. Moderate. 208 W. Fourth St. 478-7222.

South Congress Café. Good regionally inspired food from the upscale place owned by Trudy's, the Tex-Mex chain. Outside the Southwest, the mushroom stroganoff is a wonderful vegetarian entree. However, the restaurant can be miserably loud when packed. Moderate. 1600 S. Congress Ave. 447-3905.

Thistle Cafe. It's a bustling, casual place at lunch and a quiet, fine-dining spot at dinner in Davenport Village, with a high level of service to complement the food. Good menu choices include the spicy ceviche appetizer, the pork tenderloin entree and the chef-made desserts. Its offshoot, Thistle on Sixth, offers seasonal hits such as stuffed free-range chicken breast over a sprout salad and a trio of sorbets, augmented with anytime dishes such as tasty mussels in a coconut-milk broth and prime rib. Moderate/expensive. 3801 N. Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360). 347-1000. 300 W. Sixth St., Suite 103. 275-9777.

Y Bar and Grill. The busy Oak Hill eatery of Jean-Pierre Piaget features macadamia-crusted shrimp over linguine and honey-ancho-glazed rotisserie duck. Moderate. 7720 Texas 71 West. 394-0220.

BARBECUE

Ben's Longbranch Barbecue. Ben Wash is back. He has returned to the East Austin barbecue joint he operated for more than 30 years. And business is booming there, deservedly. He gets high marks for the pork butt, mutton, sausage and ribs, all of which were tender, moist and packed with smoky flavor. (Pork butt and mutton are rare items on a barbecue menu.) Forks up. Cheap. 900 E. 11th St. 477-2516.

Ruby's. There's plenty of good smoked meat and enough vinegar in the spicy sauce to pucker your tastebuds. And there's Elgin hot sausage and chopped beef sandwiches. But despite the traditional brisket, smoked chicken and sausage and pork ribs, this is a different kind of barbecue joint, with homemade dressings, a variety of beans and offerings such as a chicken salad sandwich and vegetarian jambalaya. Forks up. Cheap. 512 W. 29th St. 477-1651.

Salt Lick 360. An offshoot of the Salt Lick in Driftwood, mixing trendier fare with barbecue. For a good meal, stick with the barbecue. The meat — brisket, pork ribs and sausage — is as good as the original. Moderate. 3801 N. Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360). 328-4957.

BURGERS

BurgerTex. Using 'choice chuck' patties and baking buns twice a day, they turn out one of the tastier burgers in town, with a condiment bar that allows diners to pile the extras as high as they want. Forks up. Cheap. 5420 Airport Blvd. 453-8772.

Casino el Camino. This small dark bar is home to one of the best burgers in town. It starts with a hand-formed, three-quarter-pound patty that is wonderfully juicy when it comes off the grill. Variety abounds here, with the Amarillo featuring roasted serrano chiles and jalapeño Jack cheese and cilantro mayo, the Buffalo with hot sauce and blue cheese and the Pitts with steak sauce, sautéed mushrooms and onions and provolone cheese. Forks up. Cheap. 517 E. Sixth St. 469-9330.

CAFES

Austin Java Co. The anchor in this small chain of casual coffeehouse bistros has added couches, beer, wine and wireless Internet but kept menu favorites such as the avocado and beef salad, the burger with blue cheese and black pepper sauce, and the rich desserts and coffee drinks. Forks up. Cheap. 1206 Parkway. 476-1829.

Monument Cafe. This all-day restaurant with home-style food is as inviting at breakfast as it is at dinner. Morning offerings include a generous ham-and-cheese omelet and French toast topped with fresh berries. Evening specialties include a good chicken-fried steak made from natural beef. Don't pass up the luscious Monument chocolate pie with a pecan crust. Forks up. Cheap. 1953 S. Austin Ave., Georgetown. (512) 930-9586.

CAJUN

Evangeline Cafe. This friendly, laid-back restaurant in Southwest Austin features unpretentious Cajun and Creole fare. Tops on the menu is the oysters contraband, fried oysters on homemade potato chips topped with sausage rémoulade sauce. Other reasons to go there include the boudin, crawfish Evangeline (a Cajun version of fettuccine Alfredo) and fried catfish. Forks up. Cheap. 8106 Brodie Lane. 282-2586.

Gumbo's. Chef-owner Michael Amr has a magical Cajun-Creole touch, plunking Louisiana down in the heart of Austin. Delicious fare includes the chicken and sausage gumbo, rainbow trout stuffed with a shrimp-crawfish filling and the hearty pork tenderloin. The oysters Rockefeller and the bread pudding are exemplary. Moderate. 710 Colorado St. 480-8053.

CHINESE

Buffet Palace. The dozens of Asian dishes at the sleek, minimalist building where the Westgate 3 theater once stood are a mixed bag. The hot and sour soup and baked mussels were disappointing, while the teriyaki chicken and eggrolls were acceptable. The salmon and eel sushi, as well as the baked salmon and tempura vegetables, were worth a second trip. Forks up. Cheap. 4608 West Gate Blvd. 892-1800.

P.F. Chang's China Bistro. Every aspect of the meal was pleasurable. The surprise hit was the Szechwan asparagus, 2-inch pieces of asparagus stir-fried crisp-tender with garlic and sliced onions. The atmosphere is classy, with a long, curved bar, dark wood tables, stone walls and a high ceiling with suspended disk lights. One of Austin's least-expensive fine-dining places. Moderate. 10114 Jollyville Road. 231-0208.

CONTINENTAL/FRENCH

Bistro 88. This Rollingwood favorite now offers sushi on a par with some of the best spots in Austin. From the new-style sashimi section, the salmon rolls were spectacular. Other rolls and sushi were superb. Dishes such as the rack of lamb from the main menu remain top-notch. Expensive. 2712 Bee Cave Road. 328-8888.

Hill Country Dining Room. The special touches — the complimentary glass of champagne, the seared-scallop amuse-bouche, the lavender-pear sorbet palate cleanser — were dazzling at this Barton Creek Resort and Spa restaurant. Other highlights included basil gnocchi, frisée and watercress salad and roast lamb loin. Expensive. 8212 Barton Club Drive. 329-7923.

GREEK

Konstantino's. Billing itself as serving 'Thessalonika style Greek dishes and New York style Italian dishes,' Konstantino's is adding to the culinary diversity in Bastrop. Tasty Greek fare includes a sample platter of appetizers, souvlaki (grilled pork tenderloin) and traditional desserts such as baklava. A good Italian offering is the grilled eggplant Parmesan. Forks up. Moderate. 1412 W. Texas 71, Bastrop. 581-3232.

ITALIAN/MEDITERRANEAN

Asti Trattoria. An upscale, neighborhood trattoria that has a reach beyond Hyde Park, Asti is full of tasty Italian fare. The linguine with clams in a white wine sauce is delicious, as are the stuffed mushrooms, pizzas and desserts, including the decadent chocolate cannoli. Moderate. 408-C E. 43rd St. 451-1218.

Bellagio. Already the home of first-rate mussels and calamari, this Northwest Austin standout offers some of the city's best shrimp with its gamberetti caponata — poached and chilled jumbo shrimp with baby greens and a lively tapenade. Chef Steven Loiacono also officiates over four-star duck Ivrea (sautéed with Grand Marnier atop snap peas, carrots and apples), chicken saltimbocca and crème brûlée. Moderate/expensive. 6507 Jester Blvd. 346-8228.

Italian Garden Restaurant. Serving hearty, traditional red-sauce food around town for almost four decades. From its current strip-center location, expect four-course dinners with chicken minestrone soup, salad, a mini cheese pizza and entrees such as sausage and cheese cannelloni or beef scaloppine served with lasagna. Forks up. Moderate. 14611 FM 1325. 388-1062.

Malaga Tapas & Bar. This Spanish-style tapas and wine bar offers diners an alternative. They can eat lightly, two or three plates at a time, across a broad spectrum of meats and vegetables, ending at any point when they are pleasantly satisfied. Moderate. 208 W. Fourth St. 236-8020.

Romeo's. The cozy Italian cafe has quietly edged across the sometimes hazy line between casual and fine-dining spots, with upgraded service, free valet parking and a piano-bar ambience. Its moderately priced menu features good pastas (grilled ravioli or shrimp over linguine), pizzas (try the one topped with sausage and meatballs) and desserts. Moderate. 1500 Barton Springs Road, 476-1090.

Siena. Produces an authentic taste of Tuscany in an exquisite meal that showcases executive chef Harvey Harris at the top of his form. Can't-miss dishes include the wild boar appetizer, ravioli stuffed with spinach and artichokes, boneless lamb loin and wood-grilled salmon. Expensive. 6203 N. Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360), Building B. 349-7667.

MEXICAN

Chuy's. The Mexican restaurant with the New Mexican twist belongs on an Austin dining map. Good — and reasonably priced — dishes include the appetizer plate, Chuychanga (a chicken burrito) and Rio Grande enchiladas (with carne guisada). Forks up. Cheap. 1728 Barton Springs Road. 474-4452.

El Borrego de Oro. Once located on South First Street, this place has reopened on South Congress Avenue, and the food is as good in the new spot as it was in the previous one. Delightful dishes include the birria (a spicy lamb soup), carne a la Mexicana (grilled beef, onions, tomatoes and peppers) and chicken with chipotle sauce. Forks up. Cheap. 3900 S. Congress Ave. 383-0031.

El Jalisco's Mexican Restaurant. The parking lot here is often full, and there's a good reason: plentiful, tasty food at reasonable prices. The Jalisco nachos are topped with some of the best fajita meat around, the Tejano plate offers a hearty combo and the chipotle enchiladas are zestily appealing. Forks up. Cheap. 1419 W. Texas 71, Bastrop. (512) 303-0838.

El Rey. We started with the puu puu platter before trying the chiles rellenos and the pork stew. The platter is almost a meal unto itself. The two cheese-stuffed peppers were fried and topped with a sweet golden raisin-pecan sauce. The Sonoran-style stew — tender chunks of pork with green chiles in a thick gravy — was served in a fried tortilla bowl. Forks up. Cheap. 4109 S. Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360). 443-1911.

El Sol y La Luna. Typifies the spirit and revitalization of South Congress Avenue, offering an array of worthy Mexican choices, including enchiladas, fajita salad, spinach quesadilla and chicken caldo. Forks up. Cheap. 1224 S. Congress Ave., 444-7770.

Manuel's. In business for nearly 20 years, Manuel's continues to shine with regional Mexican dishes. Flavor-packed choices include the campechana of poached seafood and salsa fresca, chicken with mole and cheese, corn soup, a unique tortilla soup with a spicy ancho chile base, the chile relleno stuffed with pork and the fantastic flan. Moderate. 10201 Jollyville Road. 345-1042.

Olmecas Mexican Restaurant. The funky decorations in this small strip-mall spot may be leftovers from a previous tenant, but the Mexican food is 100 percent Olmecas' own. Try nachos Olmeca, with chile con queso, beans, tomatoes, avocado and fajita strips, or carne asada with nopalitos and grilled green onions. Breakfast choices include migas and eggs with chorizo. Forks up. Cheap. 2121 E. Oltorf St. 440-0809.

Seis Mesas. This tiny restaurant with six tables on Springdale Road between Seventh Street and Airport Boulevard is worth a drive for lunch. Tacos on homemade tortillas — beef fajita, chicken and pork cooked in a red chile sauce — were delicious, as were the red- and green-sauce tamales and the pork cooked in green chile sauce. Forks up. Cheap. 917 Springdale Road. 385-7490.

Texican Cafe. Good, hearty Tex-Mex fare with distinctive twists. Delicious items included the steak Fabian (cooked with onions and whole serranos), spinach enchiladas (with a tomatillo-cream cheese sauce), sopaipillas and chile con queso a la parrilla. Forks up. Cheap. 11940 Manchaca Road. 282-9094.

PIZZA

Milto's Pizza Pub. White sauce stars in the 12-inch, thin-crust spinach pizza, where the pie was thick with spinach dotted with artichoke hearts and feta cheese over an Alfredo sauce. For an alternative, Milto's offers Sicilian-style pizzas, rectangular pies with a thick crust and equally plentiful toppings. Forks up. Moderate. 2909 Guadalupe St. 476-1021.

Saccone's. A New Jersey attitude that is equally at home in New York. The 18-inch pie, with a tasty crust that was crisp from outside to center, was topped with abundant sliced Italian sausage and roasted red peppers, with a good balance of cheese and tomato sauce. Pizza lovers from the Northeast will be at home here. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 13812 Research Blvd. 257-1200. 2701 U.S. 183. 259-1882.

SEAFOOD

McCormick & Schmick's Seafood Restaurant. Bringing a big name to the city, with a national reputation built around a substantial menu of fresh fish that changes twice daily: lunch and dinner. Tasty entrees include sea scallops, halibut and shellfish in a zesty tomato sauce. Expensive. 401 Congress Ave., 236-9600.

STEAKHOUSES

Cedar Grove Steakhouse. As the name suggests, the menu is strong on tasty beef (especially hand-cut steaks), served with a choice of 13 sides. But that doesn't mean all other courses are secondary. The luscious lavender-white chocolate cheesecake, made by executive chef John Galindo III, was one of the best I've had in years. Moderate. 9595 RM 12, Wimberley. (512) 847-3113.

Cool River Cafe. One of the largest restaurants in Texas combines an upscale steakhouse and bar under one roof. On the meal side, the filet mignon served on a portobello mushroom cap with brandy peppercorn sauce was a winner. Good salads and big desserts augment the steaks. Expensive. 4001 Parmer Lane. 835-0010.

Texas Land & Cattle Co. Combines a relaxed approach with upscale touches. The spinach and artichoke dip was a spicy version of the popular appetizer. My companion ordered the cowgirl's rib-eye and I selected the silver spur filet. Both steaks, grilled over mesquite, were tender, moist and cooked to order. Moderate. 1101 S. MoPac Blvd. (Loop 1). 330-0030 .

SUSHI

Musashino. Those who avoid sushi because of an aversion to raw seafood can enjoy the cooked forms and do a little comparison tasting at the same time, particularly with eel prepared three ways. This Japanese restaurant is the best sushi spot in Central Texas (perhaps far beyond). Moderate/expensive. 3407 Greystone Drive. 795-8593.

THAI

Madam Mam's. A good spot for lunch, with food arriving quickly. Enjoyable dishes included the chicken pad Thai (noodles stir-fried with chicken and spices) and the guay teaw nuer sod (a flavorful beef soup). Forks up. Cheap. 2514 Guadalupe St. 472-8306.

VEGETARIAN

Veggie Heaven. There's a reason vegetarian food gets a bad rap: It's often bland and uninspired. The 'hot and sour' soup — it was, in fact, neither — lived up to these lowly expectations. However, the fried spring roll, the tangerine mushroom entree and the Protein 2000 (fried slices of vegetable protein with broccoli, onion and garlic) all featured strong, interesting flavors. Forks up. Cheap. 1914 Guadalupe St. 457-1013.

VIETNAMESE

Hao Hao. The Vietnamese menu at this Chinese-Vietnamese spot in far South Austin offers a great change of pace. Delicious dishes include the shrimp with lemongrass sauce, beef with ginger root and the Vietnamese hot and sour chicken soup. Forks up. Cheap. 1901 W. William Cannon Drive. 447-8121.

The Tea House. Despite a menu with more than 200 dishes, this Chinese-Vietnamese spot never loses sight of each individual dish. Delicious choices included the simmering pork in a clay pot, the spicy lettuce wraps and the young duckling with ginger root. Forks up. Cheap. 13376 Research Blvd., Suite 100. 335-0935.