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Posted: 1:23 p.m. Tuesday, Oct. 22, 2013

Fall cocktails celebrate flavors of the season 

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No Va White Sangria photo
The White Sangria at Rainey Street's No Va brings in an amalgamation of warm fall flavors like Armagnac, aged rum, spiced pear juice, and cinnamon.
Fall cocktails photo
Bartender Tacy Rowland mixes drinks at No Va.
Chef Paul Qui's new restaurant, named Qui, is on East Sixth Street in Austin, Texas.  photo
Ashley Landis/For American-Statesman
Chef Paul Qui's new restaurant, named Qui, is on East Sixth Street in Austin, Texas.
Fall cocktails  photo
The Devilwood Sour cocktail at Qui celebrates the brighter side of fall, with tequila, citrus juices and egg whites.
Jeffrey's  bar photo
The bar area at Jeffrey's is a small, intimate space.
Fall cocktails photo
The Bobby Burns cocktail at Jeffrey's is a smoky, sultry Scotch cocktail.
Fall cocktails photo
The Bobby Burns cocktail at Jeffrey's is served with a shortbread cookie, an obscure but traditional garnish.
Taverna photo
Tammy Perez
Taverna restaurant in Austin, Texas.
Fall cocktails photo
The Electrify Me at Taverna features apple and cinnamon-infused vodka, apple juice and Limoncello.

By Emma Janzen

I have nothing against celebrating pumpkin during the fall months, but when it comes to drinking and eating from September to December, America's pumpkin tunnel vision can become downright exhausting. There are so many other autumn flavors out there to enjoy; it's a shame to waste the entire season focused on one ingredient. Plus, in my experience, I can't name a single cocktail that has incorporated the squash in a flattering manner. 

So here are some alternative options for imbibing this month. Celebrate the cool weather with warm liquid ingredients like earthy aged tequilas, oaky whiskey, lush vermouth, herbal bitters, spice and booze. Most classy cocktail bars around town will avoid the pumpkin martini trap, and opt for more sophisticated expressions of the season. Below are a few from new and notable bar programs around the city. 

NO VA WHITE SANGRIA 

One of Rainey Street's newest spots for cocktails and food, No Va is arguably the first place in the district making elevated cocktails. The fall menu brings all sorts of warm flavors to the table, as well as a few interesting beer cocktails. While the Mezcal Old Fashioned and the Coffee-infused Cynar drinks had me at hello, the White Sangria stole the show with its deep, complex soul. 

While white wine acts as the focal point for any Sangria, it's the aged rum and Armagnac (a French brandy aged in oak barrels) that spike this mix with a rich, deep boozy bellow. Baking spices, soft pear and earthy sage round out the sweetness inherent in the wine and spice syrup brings out the darker side of the vanilla and oak from the brandy. This cocktail has holiday dinner companion written all over it. 

3 oz. dry white wine

1 oz. Armagnac

1 oz. Bacardi 8

1.5 oz. spiced pear juice

1 oz. lemon juice

1 oz. cinnamon/ five spice syrup

Shake ingredients together with ice vigorously until chilled. Pour into a fresh glass over new ice. Garnish with slices of pear and sage leaves.  Makes 2 drinks.  

QUI DEVILWOOD SOUR 

Qui's cocktail program started strong when they opened earlier this year and has maintained a high level of quality and consistency despite Bar Manager Michael Simon's recent departure. The Devilwood Sour celebrates the lighter side of the season, perfect for those bizarre Central Texas days where the temperature randomly jumps back into the 80s.

Agave-based spirit Sotol provides the foundation for this frothy drink. If you haven't had Sotol before, it's like a grassy gritty tasting tequila. A small supporting half-ounce of blanco tequila is added for sweetness; the spirits perk up with both lemon and lime juices, and smooth out with the silky goodness of egg whites.

The wild card in the sour is the Osmanthus syrup. Qui Bartender Rachel DelRocco explains, "osmanthus is a blossom from a shrub that's part of a more general species of shrub, trees, and vines. It's native to warm temperate climates especially Southeast Asia but there is a certain genus of it that grows in Texas and Northern Mexico. It is floral, perfume-y with some juicy orange citrus notes which I thought would pair nicely with the florality and citrus of a highland tequila or Tapatio in particular and Sotol."

1 oz. sotol
.5 oz. tequila
1/2 lemon
1/2 lime
1 oz. osmanthus syrup
Egg whites

Combine ingredients in a cocktail shaker without ice. Shake until the egg white can integrate into the liquid ingredients. Add ice and shake until chilled. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with nutmeg. 

JEFFREY'S BOBBY BURNS 

Bar Manager Josh Loving says the bar program at newly reopened Jeffrey's focuses on presenting a list of conservative booze-forward cocktails for the intimate, stately space. At arguably the highest cocktail prices in town (most ring in around $12-14), the lack of hit-or-miss experimentation is welcomed. The talented staff will make some of the most balanced and trusted classics and house cocktails with an assuring nod and quick stir.  

This traditional Scotch cocktail is named after Scottish poet Robert Burns, and Jeffrey's makes it with a balance and intricacy worthy of the finest prose. Sometimes you'll see this drink mixed with Angostura bitters, but Loving decided it would be more appropriate to serve the slightly less bitter version of the cocktail for patrons. The drink is served with a garnish that's said to be the traditional accompaniment, a shortbread cookie. "Depending on your historical source, they’ll say Bobby Burns is served with a shortbread cookie. I thought, we’re going to have an in-house baker, it would be silly not to do the tried and true bobby burns with a little cookie," Loving explained. 

2 oz. Black Grouse

75 oz. Carpano Antica

.25 Benedictine 

Combine ingredients in a pint glass with ice and stir until chilled. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Serve with a shortbread or oatmeal cookie on the side. 

TAVERNA ELECTRIFY ME 

For a slightly more casual cocktail experience, turn to the bar at Taverna on West Second Street. The Italian restaurant serves a small but thoughtful list of house drinks that includes the sweet, cider-like Electrify Me cocktail. 

Vodka acts as the blank slate for an abundance of apple in this juicy cocktail. Cinnamon is a natural fit, but the intriguing addition of sage into the vodka infusion binds together the otherwise crunchy apple flavors with a soft, dark herbal note. Limoncello brings in a zesty citrus profile, making sure the final drink doesn't weigh too heavily on the apple-side. Overall, it's well balanced and thirst-quenching. 

1.5 oz. infused Absolut vodka* 

1 oz. apple juice

.5 oz. Limoncello

Stir ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice until chilled. Strain over ice into a rocks glass. Garnish with apple slice.

*For Absolute infusion: 1.5 cups Absolut vodka, 1 cup red apples, 6 dashes cinnamon, pinch of sage. Shake ingredients together in bottle. Let sit for 2 days. Strain ingredients out. 

Emma Janzen

About Emma Janzen

Emma Janzen's role at the Statesman is twofold. When the multimedia producer isn't shooting and editing videos or updating the website and building databases, she is bringing you in-depth beer, wine, spirits and cocktail news on Liquid Austin.

Connect with Emma Janzen on:Twitter

Send Emma Janzen an email.

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