Dining: Satay
Satay's got more flavor than you can shake a stick at
By Dale Rice
American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
Web posted: April 27, 2005
 Photo by Mark Matson for AA-S The satay can become an entree with rice, peanut sauce and cucumber salad. Satay 3202 W. Anderson Lane (512) 467-6731 Hours: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays, 5 to 10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 5 to 11 p.m. Fridays, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturdays, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover, Diners Wheelchair access: Yes Wine: 18 by the glass ($4.75-$9.50), 11 by the bottle ($28-$38) Rating: 
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But that's no surprise, considering the thought and effort that Thai restaurateur Foo Swasdee has put into her dishes for the past 18 years.
Although chicken satay frequently is made with dark meat, Swasdee decided she would use only white meat -- because it's healthier -- when she opened her eatery in Northwest Austin.
The chicken breast initially is pounded thin and marinated in Thai spices. Then, just before grilling, the meat is placed on a skewer and brushed with a curry marinade and coconut milk.
The satay that arrives at the table layers complex, subtle flavors that play back and forth between the sweet and the spicy. In fact, the chicken is so good by itself that the accompanying peanut sauce should be used sparingly, if at all, to avoid masking the nuances of the preparation.
With the amount of care given to that appetizer, it's appropriate that Swasdee named her restaurant for the classic dish.
At Satay, Swasdee has been a pioneer in Asian food in Central Texas, helping to educate diners and popularize the cuisine before it became a hot commodity in the 1990s.
In addition to her flagship restaurant, she owns an adjacent takeout spot and another, Thai Noodle House, near the University of Texas campus. She also serves as a food consultant, teaches cooking classes and has come out with a line of Thai food products that is sold nationally, making her one of Austin's best-known (and gracious) restaurateurs.
Beyond satay, Swasdee's Tom Yum Gai ($3.50 for a cup), a Thai hot-and-sour lemongrass broth with straw mushrooms and chicken, was a perspiration-inducing soup that was aromatic and addictive.
On the other hand, one of the monthly specials, handmade dumplings ($7.95) filled with a mix of vegetables, was served on a bed of greens with an overbearing peanut sauce. The thick, soft dumplings could have been delectable, but they were so heavily coated with the spicy sauce that it overwhelmed the dish.
However, the plates quickly moved back to delicious mode with the entrees, Pad Siam ($9.50) and Tiger Cry ($11.95).
The Pad Siam brought together shrimp, bean threads, sprouts and green onions in a light sauce. Tender and sweet, the shrimp were perfectly prepared. The dish was garnished with ground peanuts and served with bean sprouts and shredded cabbage.
The Tiger Cry combined slices of moist, delicious, smoky, grilled flank steak with onions, Thai basil, hot pepper and roasted rice kernels in a highly zesty lime-and-fish-sauce vinaigrette, with a bed of greens on the side.
Although our vegetarian server couldn't address the finer points of the beef, he said it was a highly popular dish with regular customers (a good point of reference) and warned that it was spicy. We found him to be friendly, attentive and refreshingly frank with his recommendations.
Which is why we tried the banana fritters ($4.25) for dessert. While bananas are near the bottom of my fruit list, I allowed the waiter's enthusiasm to persuade me to sample them.
Garnished with honey and whipped cream, the deep-fried fritters had a nongreasy, crisp, golden surface that gave way to a lighter, softer, almost cakelike texture that surrounded the hot fruit. I wouldn't hesitate to order them again.
With its indirect lighting, white linens and Asian decor touches, Satay presents a welcoming ambience.
Swasdee's restaurant may now be one of hundreds of Asian eateries in Central Texas, but it's still worth singling out for its fresh and lively approach to Thai cuisine.
drice@statesman.com; 445-3859
