Beer

BridgePort gave India Pale Ale a U.S. accent

By Mark Lisheron
Web posted: April 13, 2005

When BridgePort Brewing Co. opened in 1984 in an old rope factory in Portland's industrial district, most of America had no idea what a microbrewery was.

BridgePort was the first microbrewery in a city that is today, by virtue of its more than 25 micros and brewpubs, the most appealing specialty beer city in the land. The founders, Dick and Nancy Ponzi, were winemakers. Like a few dozen other people scattered about the country at the time, the Ponzis believed a market existed for beer that tasted unlike anything made by the behemoth breweries that had spent a generation putting little breweries out of business.

Beer The big brewers had long ago settled in making pale, bland lagers modeled on the German pilsner style. The new brewers, like the Ponzis, were determined to make ales -- with big, bold flavors and aromas. These ales were crafted in the style of English beers, bitters, porters, stouts and India pale ales. Yet from the outset, it was clear that these new beers were distinctly American.

BridgePort India Pale Ale, the flagship in a marvelous line of brews, is a fine example of the transformation of a venerable British style. India pales ales were known for their pleasing bitterness. The brewers of BridgePort use varieties of hops, particularly Cascade and Chinook, grown in the nearby Willamette Valley, that give their India Pale Ale a citrus tang and aroma that drinkers of English IPA would not recognize.

Much to my delight, American brewers have gone a little crazy with the India Pale Ale style, pushing the boundaries of bitterness with huge additions of hops. BridgePort IPA did not change. In its exquisite balance of malt and hops, it is an ideal beer for someone new to the style to become acquainted with India Pale Ale.

Where to buy it: A&A Liquors, 6929 Airport Blvd., South Congress Beverage Barn, 3612 S. Congress Ave., and all Reubens locations.

Where to drink it: Ringers Sports Lounge, 415 Colorado St., and The Ginger Man, 304 W. Fourth St.


mlisheron@statesman.com
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