Dining: Shogun
Shogun can hold its own in battle of the Asian bistros
By Dale Rice
American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
Web posted: Jan. 5, 2005
The trend in Japanese restaurants is large, bustling, upscale spots with a sleek, modern Asian appeal. At least 10 have opened in the past three years, with the vast majority of them located in far North Austin and the northern suburbs.
In far South Austin, a bistro equivalent of these spacious new establishments thrives: a small, quaint, decade-old Japanese restaurant that feels like a comfortable neighborhood eatery.
Located on the Manchaca Road side of a strip shopping center, Shogun offers two dining options. Regular tables gather in the front of the restaurant, which is dominated by a wooden, arbor-like structure with hanging paper lanterns. In the back, one finds a traditional dining area with low tables and cushions on the floor for seating. A small sushi bar is located near the front.
Photo by Amber Novak for AA-S Shogun, a quiet South Austin eatery, delivers fresh, clean taste in dishes such as the sushi platter, which combines nigiri sushi and sushi rolls. |
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Shogun 1807 W. Slaughter Lane, No. 225 (512) 292-1580 Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., 5:30 to 10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover Wheelchair access: Yes Rating: 
Jan. 6, 2005 Reviews: • Shogun More In Restaurants: • Complete Restaurant Reviews • Austin360 Foodie Board • Girl Walks Into A Bar |
Ultimately, though, it's Shogun's food that will bring me back.
The sushi, prepared by one of the few female sushi chefs I've spotted in the region, delivered a fresh, clean taste.
Standard sushi included the tuna ($4.50 for two pieces) and the yellowtail ($4.95 for two pieces), with relatively large cuts of raw fish draped over petite fingers of molded rice.
Among the standard rolls, the spicy salmon skin ($6.95) and the eel ($6.95) were alluringly tasty. The salmon skin also contained avocado, while the eel included avocado and cucumber.
A more unusual roll, the "tiger eyes" ($6.95) wrapped salmon and avocado inside a thick cover of grilled squid (ika) that had been cut at regular intervals to create ridges, producing a roll that was both artistic and flavorful.
For the main course, the shrimp tempura ($14.95) was among the best I've had in Austin. Six long shrimp (at least 6 inches each) were covered in a crisp, dry, crinkled coating. They were served with a sweet tempura sauce for dipping and tempura vegetables that included a mushroom, a broccoli floret, a slice of green bell pepper, sweet potato and a mound of julienne vegetables.
The beef short ribs ($12.95), marinated overnight, delivered a sweet edge. While tasty and tender, the ribs -- as is typical with that cut of meat -- were not particularly lean. They arrived sizzling on a skillet with a bed of thinly sliced carrots and onions, with zucchini sticks and quartered mushrooms.
Both entrees were accompanied by sides of rice, simple green salads with a savory dressing and small bowls of miso soup.
For starters, the su no mono salad ($3.50) featured strands of imitation crab with julienne carrots, cucumbers, seaweed and diced green onions.
The gyoza ($4.95), traditional Japanese dumplings filled with meat and vegetables, were pan-fried on one side to render a crisp surface with a soft underside. Served with a dipping sauce, they were delicious.
Each item at Shogun, from the sushi to the tempura, was clearly prepared with care, proving that a small bistro can compete with the sleek new spots when it comes to the quality of the cuisine.
drice@statesman.com; 445-3859
