Habanero Mexican Cafe

Excellence begins with the enchiladas

By Dale Rice
American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
Sept. 30, 2004

The enchiladas verdes ($5.95) were stuffed with chunks of tender, seasoned chicken -- marinated overnight and grilled over a mesquite fire -- that were among the best I've ever found tucked inside a rolled tortilla. The enchiladas were topped with melted white cheese and a tangy tomatillo sauce that added even more depth of flavor to the dish.

To one side, tasty refried beans had a firm consistency (rather than the soupy ones served in so many restaurants that defy the adjective "refried"), while beautifully cooked Mexican rice rested on the other side, with all the grains distinct and dry (rather than wet and clumpy, as has become commonplace).

That delicious enchilada plate was delivered last week at Habanero Mexican Cafe, a small breakfast-and-lunch spot owned by Evelyn and Arthur Ibarra on West Oltorf Street between Congress Avenue and South First Street.

Keeping pace with the enchiladas, no dish at Habanero was a letdown.

The same chicken that was in the enchiladas also produced a thick quesadilla ($5.95) with melted cheese and sides of sour cream and guacamole.

The beef fajitas ($6.95) featured long, thick slices of tender, marinated meat that had been grilled over mesquite and served on a bed of white onions and bell peppers on a sizzling skillet. They were accompanied by charro beans with a flavorful broth and a distinct guacamole, which was made with big chunks of tomato, onion and bell pepper.

The wedge of homemade flan ($2.50) offered virtually no sweetness at all in the dense custard, picking up the sugary tones in the accompanying caramel sauce produced during cooking and the dollop of whipped cream on top.

In addition to that good food, there's some good news out of Habanero: The restaurant plans to add dinner on Fridays and Saturdays in the near future.

Perfect green enchiladas won't be just for lunch any more.