Dining: Hog Island Italian Deli

Hoagies worthy of their Northeast heritage

By Dale Rice
American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
Web posted: Dec. 22, 2004

Photos by Deborah Cannon/AA-S Hog Island Italian Deli has flavorful minestrone soup, but the star attractions are the hoagies -- such as this Old Italian hoagie, top -- and scrumptious Philly cheese steak sandwiches.

It advises folks from New York and Philadelphia to skip the menu explanations.

Others -- who don't know their mortadella (pork sausage similar to bologna) from their soppressata (pork salami) -- might want to read on.

In capsule form, the chalk-on-blackboard at Hog Island Italian Deli defines the cold cuts that form the heart of an Italian hoagie (sometimes known as a sub), one of the most popular sandwiches in the northeastern United States.

For example, the Sigi ($5.95 for the "mini," which is not small at all), combines semi-dry capicolla (a type of ham), cotechino (a pork sausage), mortadella and sharp Provolone cheese with lettuce, tomatoes, onions and oregano for an exceptionally tasty sandwich.

Beyond the Italian hoagies, Hog Island offers fresh roasted turkey ($5.25 for the mini), which the shop considers its specialty, dressed with mayonnaise, lettuce, tomato, onion and oregano.

The soup of the day ($3.50) featured minestrone with beans, vegetables, spinach and orzo pasta in a flavorful broth.

Finally, as might be expected from two brothers -- owner Carlo DiMarco and manager Stephen DiMarco -- from Philadelphia, there is the Philly cheese steak ($5.95 for the mini). With its "secret recipe of cheese and spices," this sandwich melds shaved beef, grilled onions and melted cheese in a scrumptious trio.

With that cheese steak and those Italian hoagies, you can be an armchair traveler, sending your tastebuds to the Northeast while you remain firmly planted at Hog Island.

Hog Island Italian Deli
1612 Lavaca St.
(512) 482-9090
Rating: Forks Up.
Price: Cheap.

Dec. 23, 2004 Reviews:
• Andiamo
• Hog Island Italian Deli

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