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Austin has it all on its plate

By Dale Rice
American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
Nov. 4, 2005

If the past year were a menu item, it would be a mixed plate for Central Texas restaurants.

More national chains and franchises, sensing the potential for further economic growth in the Austin area, moved into the market, establishing a stronger presence.

Locally owned eateries continued to come and go. Restaurants, after all, are among the riskiest businesses.

The volatility of the industry was underscored by the closing of three once-popular spots — Mezzaluna, Granite Cafe and 7. Many smaller places shut down, too, including my favorite joint for cactus: El Nopalito on South First Street (already replaced by Aquarios Tex-Mex).

Some of Austin's moderately priced places reported being hurt by high energy costs, with business dropping noticeably after gas prices shot up two months ago.

That's the downside.

But there is a significant upside.

Highly rated restaurants as diverse as the Driskill Grill and Vespaio are bringing in more diners than ever before, and there was a 45-minute wait at Nuevo Leon at 9 p.m. on a recent Friday.

Other local restaurateurs are in expansion mode. Starlite moved downtown, and Asti owners Lisa and Emmett Fox opened Fino in the former Granite location. Brenda and Billy McGowan are launching a second Ms. B's on East 11th Street, Hoover Alexander is adding a north location for Hoover's on U.S. 183 and Reed Clemens is transforming Mezzaluna into the Capitol Brasserie.

Best of all, the quality of dining rose another notch in Central Texas, with area restaurants garnering more national attention. Uchi's Tyson Cole, for example, was one of Food & Wine magazine's Top 10 new chefs for 2005.

Diners who search for memorable culinary experiences need look no farther. Austin is a destination of distinction.




drice@statesman.com; 445-3859

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