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Chef Shawn Cirkiel continues to impress with entrees such as cod atop potatoes, above, and desserts such as pineapple tarte tatin.

Jean Luc's Bistro
705 Colorado St.
(512) 494-0033
Hours: 5:30 to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 5:30 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday
Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover, Diners
Wheelchair access: Yes
Wine: 22 by the glass ($6.50-$13), 196 by the bottle ($18-$285)
Rating:

December 25, 2003 Reviews:
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Jean Luc's Bistro

Restaurant more than earns its five stars

By Dale Rice
American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
Thursday, December 25, 2003

Three anchovy fillets, battered with Japanese breadcrumbs and fried to a bright gold, were piled on a bed of warm, pureed and wilted Romaine lettuce surrounded by a red-bell-pepper sauce.

An imaginative spin on Caesar salad, the trio of ingredients was visually inspiring, and provided contrasts in texture along with flavors that united seamlessly.

It was one of an intriguing group of appetizers that made decisions difficult at Jean Luc's Bistro, the French-inspired restaurant that executive chef Shawn Cirkiel and pastry chef Philip Speer have operated for the past two years.

But with guidance from our knowledgeable server, who provided accurate descriptions and voiced opinions when asked, we narrowed it to three: gnocchi with lobster mushrooms ($10), oysters ($11) and the anchovies ($9).

The four oysters, which had been heated just enough to warm them, were served on the half-shell over small mounds of shredded cabbage in a butter sauce with poached bacon and a hint of mustard foam on top. For the presentation, the shells were placed on a platter of rock salt, which produced an attractive setting. The oysters, cabbage and sauce offered the same type of textural and flavor contrasts as the anchovies and were equally delicious.

The gnocchi, light dumplings that drew generous praise from the toughest gnocchi judge I know, were joined with diced lobster mushrooms in a shallot-herb sauce. That bowl also offered a beautiful contrast in textures, with the gnocchi melting away immediately in the mouth to leave only the firm mushrooms remaining.

That one course, which required vastly disparate techniques to produce such flawless fare, shows why Cirkiel maintains one of the best restaurants in the city. It was unfortunate, though, that so few people were in the bistro on a recent Friday night to enjoy that cuisine. Although there was one party of eight women, there were only five other tables occupied at 8 p.m., prime downtown dining time.

Even Cirkiel wasn't there that night. But in this case, it's a tribute to his kitchen staff that they could turn out such exquisite meals while he was elsewhere (cooking privately for Tommy Lee Jones, in fact).

To begin the meal that night, a white tray bore four white Asian-style soup spoons with the amuse, the complimentary starter. One pair of spoons held turnip puree garnished with chopped chives, while the other had a pear pair: pureed and julienned fruit.

For the main course, the squab ($33) -- young pigeon -- was deboned, except for the tiny wings, and served medium-rare over petite sticks of carrots, baby onions and julienned mushrooms in a pool of truffle sauce that was fragrant and tasty. It was served with a lovely squash tart in a flaky pastry crust.

In the second entree, a thick fillet of cod ($26) was topped with fried calamari and served over a bed of red potatoes in a tarragon broth with several clams. All of the seafood components, which clearly required differing cooking times, were tender, again demonstrating how well technique has been mastered in this kitchen.

For dessert, Speer's lemon mousse ($8), which the waitress noted did not require advance ordering (many restaurants claim that souffles require much extra attention and preparation time), was delectable, with a light citrus flavor. It was enhanced with a blueberry-ginger anglaise sauce, which our server poured into the souffle after delicately piercing the top with a spoon.

The pineapple tarte tatin ($8) featured a slice of pineapple which had been cooked in the classic way: blanketed with pastry in a caramel sauce. Then it was turned out of the pan so the pastry became the base with a scoop of coconut ice cream filling the center. In addition there was a mango sauce that surrounded the pool of caramel sauce on the plate. Finally, in an unusual move, it was sprinkled with pink peppercorns, which provided an unusual layer of flavor for a dessert.

It completed the meal as it began, with contrasts and creativity befitting a five-star restaurant.

You may contact Dale Rice at drice@statesman.com or 445-3859.

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