Events
Gene's The Po'Boy machine By Dale Rice American-Statesman Restaurant Critic Thursday, November 20, 2003 Take a drive down East 11th Street these days and you'll get a sense of renewed vitality, with steel girders rising high over the sidewalks as construction projects get under way. But there's one place down that street, at the intersection of 11th, Navasota and Rosewood, where I don't want to see change: Gene's. This Cajun and soul food restaurant, owned by New Orleans natives Gene and Claudia Tumbs, puts simple, down-home fare on the table. The po' boys are an excellent example. Served on a half-loaf of soft French bread with lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise, these Crescent City sandwiches are filled with a variety of items, including catfish, pastrami and sausage. My favorites, though, are the oyster ($7.75) and the shrimp ($7.75), the two most expensive po' boys. The seafood in each is fried to perfection, and the generous portions put some New Orleans restaurants to shame. From the daily soul food specials, there are meals such as jambalaya, spaghetti casserole and smothered chicken. A recent Wednesday produced a thick oval of Salisbury steak ($7.65) with brown gravy over mashed potatoes, a side of well-cooked green beans and two pieces of grilled French bread. Thursday brought smothered pork chops ($7.95), tender and floating in gravy, which were served with collard greens, sweet potatoes and corn bread. A meal such as that seems incomplete without the homemade banana pudding that combines sliced fruit, smooth custard and crushed vanilla wafers. There wasn't a bite that needed renovation. You may contact Dale Rice at drice@statesman.com or 445-3859. | ||||
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