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XL Dining Guide 2003

Newcomers Watch Their Costs And Hope For The Best

You've got to admire their gumption.

Photo by Mark Matson/AA-S

Zin American Bistro's popular red chili marinated chicken wraps.

To look at the Central Texas economy, which showed few signs of recovery in the past 12 months, and still open a restaurant, one of the riskiest businesses, takes courage.

But that's what more than two dozen restaurateurs did in 2003: They launched new establishments in the hope they could help satisfy our penchant for dining out.

While many of them won't make it, based on the historical averages, some will do very well.

Three that are off to a running start in that direction -- with food and service on a par with well-established places -- are our rookies of the year: Zin American Bistro, Thistle Cafe on Sixth and Roaring Fork.

But that doesn't mean these first months have been easy for them. All agree there are challenges to operating in a soft economy and in tailoring food for an Austin audience.

"We had to cut back on labor," says Zin chef-owner Fred Geesin, who opened the restaurant with business partners Rick Detrick and Heath Hoselton. Now he's carrying more of the weight in the kitchen, and closely watching the cost of food.

In addition, Geesin and partners re-evaluated the menu, dumping the "dead dogs," such as an unpopular scallop appetizer, and asking diners for input. Responding to customers, Zin has added three seafood entrees, including a hot-and-crunchy trout dish that was popular at one of the restaurants that once occupied that space.

Photo by Rebecca McEntee/AA-S

The Thistle Cafe's stuffed free range chicken breasts.

Those changes are helping.

"We're doing pretty well for being as slim-staffed as we are in the kitchen," he says. "We're seeing the restaurant start to turn."

At Thistle Cafe on Sixth, owner Susan Hartmaier says payroll and food costs are her two biggest concerns.

"I never feel like I have momentum," says Hartmaier, who along with her husband, Jean Belanger, launched this offshoot of the Thistle Cafe at Davenport Village. "One day, we do really well; the next day, no one's around. There's no consistency."

That makes ordering food and scheduling staff that much more difficult. Consequently, she says, there are times when the restaurant "munches away on cash like a happy little Pac Man."

Still, Hartmaier says, "we try to do our best every single day."

Guy Villavaso, one of the partners in the Roaring Fork at the Stephen F. Austin Intercontinental Hotel, says it has not been easy to draw people there.

Photo by Robert Godwin/AA-S

A 22-oz. bone-in ribeye steak with roasted corn and apple bacon succotash at the Roaring Fork.

"The economy is slower, and our biggest challenge is getting people coming to that corner," says Villavaso. He and Z Tejas partner Larry Foles joined Robert McGrath in launching the Austin version of the Scottsdale, Az., restaurant.

Those who do show up want good food at a good price.

"We're a more upscale restaurant than a lot of our competitors," he says, "but customers still judge us on whether they can get a similar experience at a value price." As word spreads, that should become clear.

Roaring Fork, Thistle Cafe on Sixth and Zin American Bistro may be rookies, but they're performing like experienced players in this field.

-- Dale Rice

More On:
Zin American Bistro | Thistle Cafe | Roaring Fork

More Dining Guide:
Back To Index | Next: Top 10 Restaurants

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