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Café Spiazzo
5416 Parkcrest Drive
(512) 459-9960
Rating: Forks up
Price: Moderate

December 4, 2003 Reviews:
Moonshine
Café Spiazzo

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Café Spiazzo

Worth a visit even if you don't live in Northwest Austin

By Dale Rice
American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
Thursday, December 4, 2003

When it comes to dining, Austin can stand up to many larger cities, except in one area -- neighborhood restaurants.

We just don't have a host of eateries that are located in residential areas and serve mostly folks living within a few blocks.

Fortunately, we do have a few with the feel of a neighborhood bistro, and Café Spiazzo in Northwest Austin is one of them.

Tucked well off the street toward the back of a multistory commercial building, Spiazzo is a small, colorful Italian restaurant that was nearly full the night before Thanksgiving with mostly families and couples.

Many of the diners knew each other, with several moving among tables to greet newcomers, contributing to that neighborhood feel.

On the table, the sausage pizza ($8) had a thin, crisp crust and tasty toppings, including roasted bell peppers and smoked provolone, although I would have liked the sauce and cheese to come closer to the edge of the pie (my major criticism of the night).

The veal scallopine ($16), one of the nightly specials, featured thin slices of tender veal topped with prosciutto, cheese and onions, with sides of roasted red potatoes and asparagus.

In the penne with chicken ($11), the pasta tubes were layered with mozzarella and ricotta cheeses and a zesty tomato sauce. The house salad, included in the price of the entree, had a flavorful tomato vinaigrette dressing, one of several choices.

The tiramisu ($6) was made with thin layers of sponge cake alternating with barely sweetened mascarpone cheese, forming a light dessert.

Fare like that means that close-to-home isn't the only reason to dine at Spiazzo. It's a neighborhood restaurant even for those of us who live miles away.



You may contact Dale Rice at drice@statesman.com or 445-3859.

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