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Crescent City Beignets
1211 W. Sixth St., Suite 100
(512) 472-9622
Rating: Forks Up


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Crescent City Beignets

Down south on West Sixth

By Dale Rice
American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
Thursday, November 7, 2002

Just behind the cash register, near the end of a cafeteria-style counter, a large blanket of rolled dough rests on a long, flour-dusted, wooden cutting board.

When an order is placed, one of the white-clad cooks deftly cuts squares of dough and drops them into a vat of oil. Immediately, bubbles rise to the surface as they fry.

Plucked from the oil with a large mesh scoop, the dough squares have become plump pillows filled with hot air, ready for a final dusting of powdered sugar.

A trio of those beignets ($2.55), in a basket with at least a quarter cup of sugar, form a great breakfast, snack or dessert, depending on your timing and inclination at Crescent City Beignets.

The No. 2 store in a rapidly growing, Texas-based chain, Crescent City supplies more than a sugary wisp of New Orleans cuisine.

There are blue-plate specials, such as crawfish étouffée, shrimp Creole and red beans and rice with andouille sausage, and sandwiches to satiate a lunchtime hunger.

One of those blue plates, the chicken and sausage gumbo ($6.95), was a satisfying, dark-brown, spicy broth with chunks of chicken and thin slices of sausage topped with a large scoop of white rice. It was served with a Caesar-style salad and three hushpuppies.

The muffuletta ($5.95), one of America's most famous sandwiches, featured ham, salami, provolone cheese and olive salad on a soft, round roll.

Top those off with a cafe au lait ($1.95 for the small) and a hot beignet, and -- at least for a moment -- you'll wonder whether you're still in Austin.



You may contact Dale Rice at drice@statesman.com or 445-3859.

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