Ciola's Layered perfection By Dale Rice American-Statesman Restaurant Critic Thursday, July 11, 2002 As a young reporter working nights in the Northeast, I occasionally joined two of my colleagues for the Wednesday night lasagna special at a tiny mom-and-pop Italian restaurant. Using a deep pan, the elderly proprietor layered noodles, tomato sauce and cheese with big chunks of pepperoni, sausage, meatballs and hard-boiled eggs. It was a unique dining experience, one that I never had again. Until now. The lasagna ($11.95) at the new Ciola's in Lakeway uses the exact same elements -- meatballs, sausage, pepperoni and eggs -- although they are more finely crumbled and sliced than that pasta from my past. The result is some of the best lasagna I've had in Texas. But the good fare doesn't stop there. The basic red sauce -- thick enough to scoop up with a fork -- was delicious, as was the homemade sausage ($2.95 as a side), which was heavy on the fennel seed (just like sausage I devoured in Italy in April). The gnocchi ($10.95), baked in tomato sauce and covered with mozzarella cheese, was nice and light (and served, as are all entrees, with bread and a house salad). The big bowl of mussels ($8.95), cooked in a spicy tomato sauce that was heavy on the garlic and red chili flakes, was wonderful. The only complaint I have about this casual, old-fashioned, red-sauce Italian restaurant is that it's located in Lakeway, rather than five minutes from my South Austin home. You may contact Dale Rice at drice@statesman.com or 445-3859. | ||||
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