FOOD & DRINK

Coffee can boost flavor of meat, stews and desserts

By Marlene Sorosky Gray
SAN FRANCISCO CHRONICLE
Wednesday, July 29, 2009

When I was contemplating a culinary career many years ago, I took cooking classes at a small French restaurant near my home. The instructor, Chef Gregoire, did not believe in throwing anything away. Frugality, he said, was an important part of French cuisine.

He put every edible particle of food - vegetable peelings, scraps of meat, gravy, pancake batter and even leftover coffee - into a pot, covered the concoction with water and simmered it for hours.

If the resulting potage, which he affectionately called "garbage soup," came out bland, he would throw in an extra cup of coffee.

"Coffee wakes up more than human beings," he would say in his pronounced French accent. "It wakes up food as well."

With the resurgence of comfort foods, chefs are braising more often and using coffee as part of the liquid.

"It adds another layer and depth of flavor," says Mitchell Rosenthal, chef and co-owner of Town Hall in San Francisco, who adds a shot of espresso to a basic mushroom sauce in his pork osso bucco.

John Karbowski, executive chef at Pampas in Palo Alto, Calif., braises beef in a combination of stock and coffee to which he adds a little unsweetened cocoa powder.

He likes to pair coffee with flavors that complement it, like chocolate. To counteract the bitter coffee and cocoa notes, he cooks the beef with sweet vegetables, such as carrots, parsnips and onions.

How much to use

The amount of coffee to use in braising depends on how strong a flavor you want. There is no hard-and-fast rule.

Josiah Stone, chef-owner of Sent Sovi in Saratoga, Calif., recommends substituting strong coffee for half of the stock when braising heavy cuts of meat . Coffee's aromatic components become integrated in the stock after simmering for several hours.

"The flavor of the coffee should not be discernible," he says. "The goal of cooking with coffee is not necessarily to taste it, but to have it blend in and add another layer of flavor."

Sauces and rubs

Coffee is so versatile that it is good for far more than just braising. It adds a jolt of flavor and a deep mahogany hue to barbecue sauces, marinades and rubs.

Steven Raichlen, author of "The Barbecue! Bible," adds espresso to the brine for chicken breasts and, to complete the coffee motif, serves them with an espresso-flavored mustard barbecue sauce.

Dry rubs are a combination of spices, seasonings and herbs that add flavor and texture to meats and fish. When you add ground coffee to an ordinary rub, you take it to a whole new flavor level.

Pork tenderloin, a cut of meat that can be bland and dry, is the ideal candidate for an aromatic coffee rub. I was so enamored with the crust the rub imparted to the meat that for my next try I coated the pork with the seasonings and refrigerated it overnight.

The grilled meat was moist and succulent, and the seasonings permeated the entire roast. I basted and served it with a smoky, coffee-flavored barbecue sauce.

Coffee and dessert

Unlike combining coffee with savory food, a relatively recent development, coffee's distinctive flavor has been part of desserts for centuries. When I asked pastry chefs about adding coffee to desserts, their first response was to combine it with chocolate to create a velvety mousse. The marriage of coffee and chocolate isn't surprising when you consider that they grow in many of the same geographic regions and have similar floral and herbal notes.

Carol LeValley, proprietor of Rustic Bakery and Cafe in Larkspur, Calif., adds just enough coffee to her chocolate mousse to deepen the dessert's flavor, but not enough to discern any coffee taste. She believes that coffee heightens the chocolate flavor.

Yet chocolate guru Alice Medrich, author of "Pure Dessert" and "Bittersweet," has stopped adding coffee to chocolate desserts. "Chocolate has become so refined and complex that it overpowers the coffee," she says.

The bottom line is, if you are using a complex, high-quality chocolate, you might not want to dilute it with coffee. If, however, you are using a semisweet or bittersweet chocolate that lacks floral, smoky and herbal notes, coffee can add just the boost you need.

Emily Luchetti, executive pastry chef at Farallon and Waterbar in San Francisco, uses coffee in ice cream, granita, angel food cake and a sumptuous cappuccino soufflé. One of her favorite recipes is a caramel coffee sauce in which she substitutes coffee for half the cream.

When I asked her what she puts it on, she laughingly answered, "Everything. It is so good, you can almost drink it."

Tips for cooking with coffee

• Strong brewed coffee perks up the flavor in pot roasts, stews, chili, mole, baked beans and hearty soups.

• For fuller flavor, use ground coffee beans instead of instant. If you do use instant, make it espresso.

• When adding coffee to dishes that will be cooked, make the coffee stronger than you would normally drink it.

• To get the most coffee flavor in cookie dough, dissolve ground coffee in a small amount of liquid and add it to the creamed butter and sugar.

• To add coffee flavor to cakes, coarsely crush the beans with a rolling pin and steep them in the liquid used in the batter.

Coffee-Braised Pot Roast with Cinnamon and Ancho Chile Pepper

This recipe works equally well with lamb shoulder or shanks, short ribs and beef stew. If time permits, cook the roast ahead and refrigerate it and the cooked sauce separately. It is easier to carve the meat and remove the fat from the sauce when they are cold. Spoon the sauce over the meat and either refrigerate for up to 2 days or heat and serve. If desired, vegetables such as carrots, parsnips, rutabaga and potatoes can be added during the last 45 minutes of cooking. Serves 6.

4-lb. boneless chuck roast

For the rub

2 tsp. kosher salt

2 tsp. black pepper

2 Tbsp. ground or instant espresso

1 tsp. ground ancho chile pepper

1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon

For the braising liquid

4 Tbsp. olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

8 garlic cloves, minced

2 Tbsp. ground or instant espresso dissolved in 11/2 cups warm water

1 cinnamon stick

11/2 tsp. ground ancho chile pepper

1 Tbsp. packed brown sugar

1 Tbsp. butter, softened

2 Tbsp. flour

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Rinse the roast and dry thoroughly. Combine all rub ingredients in a small bowl and rub all over the meat.

In a Dutch oven or wide, heavy saucepan, heat 3 Tbsp. oil over medium high heat until hot. Add the roast and cook on all sides until very dark (coffee will cause it to become almost black), 8-10 minutes total. Remove the roast to a plate.

Add the chopped onion to the pan, reduce the heat to medium and cook, scraping up as much of the seasoning stuck to the bottom of the pan as possible, until the onion begins to soften, about 10 minutes. Add garlic and sauté for 1 minute. Slowly add a small amount of coffee to the pan (it will sizzle). Add the remaining coffee and cook, stirring up the remaining bits from the bottom of the pan. Stir in cinnamon stick, chile pepper and brown sugar. Bring to a simmer. Return the beef to the pan and bring to a boil. Cover tightly and transfer to the oven.

Bake for 11/2 hours, then turn the beef over, cover again and continue cooking until meat is fork-tender, but not falling apart, about 31/2 hours total. If making ahead, refrigerate meat and juices separately.

To serve, transfer the beef to a cutting board and tent loosely with foil. Remove the cinnamon stick from the braising liquid and skim the fat.

Bring the braising liquid to a boil over medium-high heat. Mash the butter with the flour to form a paste and whisk into the gravy. Simmer for 5 minutes, or until thickened slightly.

Carve the roast and serve with the gravy.

- Marlene Sorosky Gray