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FOOD MATTERS

Fabi and Rosi, Max's Wine Dive open, plus free breakfast for cyclists

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

European flair at new Fabi and Rosi

When the renowned Austin restaurant Zoot moved to Bee Cave Road from its little house on Hearn Street at the end of last year, people wondered what would happen to the original location. The answer is Fabi and Rosi European Kitchen, owned by Austin native Cassie Williamson and her husband, German-born chef Wolfgang Murber, who opened the restaurant Friday . The couple met two years when Murber was a chef on a private yacht in Spain after studying in Germany and cooking in Italy, Williamson said. Murber moved to Williamson's home in the Clarksville neighborhood, and the couple began searching for a cozy old house where he could put his multinational experience to work. They saw Zoot's old home lying vacant and worked out an agreement with the landlord. The menu at Fabi and Rosi (pronounced "fab-ee and roe-zee," and named for Fabio and Rosalie, the couple's nephew and niece) is an ambitious one-stop tour of European cooking: escargot, charcuterie, short-rib Bolognese, paella, schnitzel and more, with main-course prices from $12 to $21. Until the liquor license comes through, the restaurant allows beer and wine to be carried in. 509 Hearn St. 236-0642, www.fabiandrosi.com. Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 5 to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, closed Sundays.

- Mike Sutter

New downtown spot already making its mark

Max's Wine Dive - which opened Tuesday at 207 San Jacinto Blvd. - has its roots in Houston, but this home of upmarket comfort food (fried chicken, a "haute" dog with venison chili, Kobe beef burgers) and a 180-label wine list already has made strong area connections. It's getting greens from Bella Verdi Farms in Dripping Springs, buffalo from San Antonio's Thunder Heart Bison and bread from the new Walton's Fancy and Staple in Austin. But for chef Steve Super, the best local connection has been the people. "I've been so impressed with the staff so far," he said. Super, who comes to Austin from Max's sister operation in Houston, the Tasting Room, and his own restaurant in Vermont before that, should fit right in here: He was a touring musician for almost three decades. Max's Wine Dive (904-0111, www.maxswinedive.com/austin ) is open 4 p.m. to midnight Mondays through Wednesdays, 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. Thursdays through Saturdays and 11 a.m. to midnight Sundays.

- M.S.

Only Natural foods at UT-area grocery store

The Colorado-based Natural Grocers is set to open its first Austin location this week at 3901 Guadalupe St., just north of the University of Texas campus. The store, which has 32 locations in three states, sells only organic produce, growth hormone-free milk, antibiotic-free meat and food that is free of preservatives, trans fats, hydrogenated oils and artificial coloring and sweeteners. It also has a bulk section and specializes in vitamins and supplements. On Tuesday , the store will host a grand opening with a free barbecue, raffle and specials. Open 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mondays through Fridays, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Saturdays and 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sundays. 323-5100, www.naturalgrocers.com .

- A.B.

Bike to work andget free breakfast

Free breakfast might just be the motivation you need to get you on your bike Friday as part of Austin Cycling Association's Bike to Work Day. Here are a list of some of the breakfast stops. Go to http://tiny.cc/3zlDI to see a Google map of the locations.

• Whole Foods (525 N. Lamar Blvd.)

• One Texas Center (505 Barton Springs Road)

• City Hall Plaza (301 W. Second St.)

• Bike Texas (1902 E. Sixth St.)

• Mellow Johnny's (400 Nueces St.)

• Wheatsville Co-op (3101 Guadalupe St.)

• Bicycle Sport Shop (517 S. Lamar Blvd.)

• Freewheeling Bicycles (2401 San Gabriel St.)

• Orange Bike Project and Longhorn Po-boys (Speedway between Dean Keeton and 21st streets)

• The Peddler and Texas Culinary Academy (119 E. North Loop Blvd.)

• Shoal Creek Boulevard at Far West Boulevard right of way (across from Northwest Park)

• Music City Cycles (6301 W. Parmer Lane)

• El Chilito (2219 Manor Road)

- A.B.

Best ratio: equal parts recipe, imagination

Journalist-turned-chef Michael Ruhlman went from writing books about the lives of chefs ("The Making of a Chef," "The Soul of a Chef") to writing cookbooks many of them will use to make better food. Ruhlman has had a hand in publishing more than half a dozen cookbooks, including his latest, "Ratio: The Simple Codes Behind the Craft of Everyday Cooking" (Simon and Schuster, $27), which boils down to a specific ratio all kinds of dishes, including custards, pies, vinaigrettes and sausages. At the risk of oversimplifying things like bread (five parts flour, three parts water) and cookie dough (one part sugar, two parts fat, three parts flour), Ruhlman makes it clear that if you only use the ratio and nothing more, you will create nothing more than a basic loaf, cake, cookie or stock. However, the ratios are the building blocks on which home cooks can build and create dishes that are truly their own. The book is a must for serious cooks eager to break from free from jumping back and forth between the cookbook and the stove.

- A.B.

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