XL: On the Side

Pappasito's

Line up for super-size Tex-Mex

When there are so many good mom-and-pop Mexican restaurants around, how can a behemoth chain draw diners in droves?

Stop by Pappasito's, part of the Texas-based chain of Pappas restaurants — Pappadeaux, Pappas Bros. Steakhouse, Pappas Seafood House, Pappas Bar-BQ, etc. — for the answer.

Ha Lam
AMERICAN-STATESMAN

(enlarge photo)

The guacamole dip from Pappasito's.

Ha Lam
AMERICAN-STATESMAN

(enlarge photo)

Crispy Morelia chicken tacos at Pappasito's.

Pappasito's Cantina.
6513 N. Interstate 35, 459-9214.
Rating: Forks up. Price: Moderate.

The Austin Pappasito's, which can fill more than 200 seats in short order on a weekend, is popular because it delivers.

One of the dinner platters, Pappasito's Superior ($13.95), is a great example. The meal is huge, with a large beef taco al carbon (loaded with tender meat), two well-stuffed chicken enchiladas, a tamale and sizeable portions of rice and beans. Plus, it all was tasty.

At the low-price end of Pappasito's menu, the Morelia chicken tacos ($8.95) featured three crisp corn tacos filled with spicy chicken and topped with the traditional lettuce, tomatoes and cheese, along with sides of rice and charro beans.

At the high end, the Plato Del Mar on a recent weeknight proved a twist on the usual chicken fajitas and shrimp plate (normally $19.95). This nightly special ($15.95) paired flavorful beef fajitas and a lobster tail in an entree that was sufficient for two.

Appetizers of chile con queso with spicy ground beef ($5.90) and guacamole dip ($5.95) also brought generous portions of good Mexican food.

So, while Pappasito's may be more expensive than the typical Tex-Mex restaurant in the area, it is providing value for the price. Add quality food to that equation and it's easy to see why a line forms at Pappasito's.