RECREATION

Willow City Loop offers plenty to test your cycling legs

Bring your bike next time you visit the Hill Country

By Pamela LeBlanc
AMERICAN-STATESMAN STAFF
Friday, May 23, 2008

WILLOW CITY — Next time you head to the Hill Country, bring your bike.

From Llano to Fredericksburg and all points surrounding, miles of rolling roadways are ready to torment your quad muscles.

One of my favorite routes starts and ends in tiny Willow City, northwest of Stonewall. My husband, Chris, and I do the ride each spring, when we participate in the Hill Country Children's Advocacy Center Pedal Power Wildflower Ride. The loop, also popular among bluebonnet-peeping motorcyclists, is part of the fundraiser's 60-mile route.

But you can do the ride anytime, and shorten it to 21 miles by driving directly to Willow City. Don't attempt it unless you're an experienced cyclist. Although much of the ride is on two-lane blacktop, and most of the traffic you encounter is puttering along enjoying the scenery, the ride includes an intense (and sometimes harrowing) downhill stretch on Texas 16.

If you're up for it, park your car in Willow City, strap on your helmet and climb into the saddle.

First, a bit of history. According to the Handbook of Texas Online, the area's first settler was a slave-holding Baptist preacher who shunned his German-speaking neighbors. A group of English speakers founded the community of Willow just after the Civil War, and they reportedly traveled all the way to Austin to trade just to avoid German-speaking Fredericksburg. The name eventually changed to Willow City, and the town grew steadily and gained a reputation as a criminal hangout. By 1915, Willow City had three general stores, a drugstore, two blacksmiths and a cotton gin.

Nice place, eh?

You'd never guess it now. Willow City is more of an intersection in the middle of nowhere than an actual city. The old two-story school still stands, and there's a barbecue joint called Harry's that's popular with motorcyclists. (We wanted to try it this year, but when we pulled into the bottle cap-strewn parking lot and stepped over a doormat that said "Well, butter my butt and call me a biscuit, look who's here," we found a "closed" sign.)

From "town," proceed west on RM 1323 toward Texas 16. Just before you reach the highway, there's another opportunity to slack — the Knot in the Loop Saloon on your left. It's been here for five years, and generally swings open its doors at noon Tuesdays through Sundays, serving burgers, fries and beer. (Please skip the beer if you are biking.)

After leaving the Knot, turn right onto Texas 16. You'll pedal up a long, gradual incline. But don't worry, the payoff is coming in the form of that long, screaming downhill. Before you start coasting, look to your left to catch a glimpse of Enchanted Rock, a huge granite uprising.

And now, the Big Coast. Crouch low and stay in control as you whiz down this awesome hill.

At the bottom, the road flattens out briefly before you turn right onto the day's main event, the Willow City Loop.

In the spring, the bluebonnets and Indian blankets proliferate. It's gorgeous. The road winds through ranches and over cattle guards (watch those on your bike), criss-crossing creeks and hugging a lush bluff. At one point, you'll pass a wooden sign that says "A good rain and a new calf are always welcome." Beware: Sometimes cattle and sheep wander onto the road.

Save your energy for what's to come: a long grinding uphill back to Willow City, which you'll see looming well in advance. Switch into your granny gear and start spinning. It's a badge of honor to get all the way up the hill without hopping off and pushing, but we know you can do it.

When you get to the top, take a minute to check out the vista and catch your breath. Then it's just a few more miles of gradual incline into Willow City. Enjoy the ride.