Buying oysters

Shucked oysters are easy to come by, stocked in plastic containers in the seafood department of most grocery stores.

Shucked oysters come in select and standard grades. The standard oysters in a container might be of varying sizes and there might be some damage to the oyster meat. All the selects in a container will be a similar size with no nicks to the oyster itself. Shucked oysters should be good for 14 days after they were shucked, so Robert Pidgeon of Inland Seafood in Atlanta recommends checking the “sell by” date carefully and eating the oysters before that day arrives.

Oysters in the shell for dishes such as Oysters Rockefeller and Oysters Alexander are sold in some grocery stores. Stores such as Whole Foods Market might carry several types of oysters ranging from those harvested in the Gulf to those that come from the Atlantic and even Pacific oceans. The oysters coming from western waters are generally more expensive because they grow more slowly in those colder water temperatures.

Oysters in the shell don’t come with a “sell by” date so it’s important to buy from a reputable source. “By law, the retailer must have the shellfish tag for the oysters they’re selling which includes the harvest area and date of harvest. You can ask to see that and plan to eat your oysters within 14 days of harvest,” said Pidgeon.

Oysters Alexander

If you’re shucking the oysters yourself, use the right equipment. An oyster shucking knife, not a butter knife or steak knife, is essential, and will make shucking the oysters easier and safer.

In this recipe, the oysters are baked in their bottom shell, which is cupped and will hold the oysters, their liquor and the melted butter. Be careful not to cook the oysters too long. If they’ve shrunk, you’ve overcooked them. Rock salt is available at many grocery stores and is also sold as “ice cream” salt.

1/4 cup pine nuts

3 cloves garlic, peeled

2 shallots, peeled

2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped fresh parsley

2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped fresh chives

2 Tbsp. lemon juice

1 Tbsp. brandy

1 tsp. pepper

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature

Rock salt

18 oysters in shells, scrubbed, shucked and top shells discarded

Lemon wedges, chopped chives, for garnish

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Scatter pine nuts on pie plate and bake until golden, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove pine nuts from oven and increase temperature to 375 degrees.

In the bowl of a food processor, combine toasted pine nuts with garlic, shallots, parsley, chives, lemon juice, brandy and pepper. Process until finely chopped. Add butter and pulse just until blended. Bits of all ingredients should still be visible. Set aside.

Line a roasting pan or ovenproof serving dish with 1/2-inch of rock salt. Arrange oysters on salt and divide butter among oysters. Bake until oysters just begin to firm up and butter melts, about 8 minutes. Garnish with lemon wedges and chopped chives, if desired. Serve immediately. Discard rock salt after serving. Serves 6.

— Adapted from a recipe provided by Vicky Murphy, Inland Seafood.

Oyster Pie

This variation on scalloped oysters is called a “pie” because you bake it in a dish large enough that the oyster mixture is very shallow and the wide top surface provides every bite with a mix of the creamed oysters and crunchy topping. Murphy uses Ritz Crackers in this recipe.

2 pints shucked oysters with their liquor

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

1/4 cup sliced celery

1/4 cup chopped onion

2 cups finely crushed crackers, divided

3/4 cup milk

2 Tbsp. chopped parsley

2 cloves garlic, finely minced

2 tsp. lemon juice

1/8 tsp. pepper

1/2 cup grated cheddar, divided

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease a 10-inch pie plate or other ovenproof baking dish.

Carefully check oysters for bits of shell. In a medium saucepan, heat oysters and their liquor over medium heat just until edges being to curl, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and drain. Discard liquid and set oysters aside.

In a large skillet over medium heat, melt butter and add celery and onion. Saute vegetables until just tender, about 3 minutes. Add 1 1/2 cups crushed crackers, milk, parsley, garlic, lemon juice, pepper and 1/4 cup cheddar. Stir in oysters and pour mixture into prepared baking dish.

In a small bowl, combine remaining 1/2 cup crushed crackers with remaining 1/4 cup cheddar and sprinkle over oyster mixture. Bake 10 minutes or just until top turns light brown. Serve immediately. Serves 6.

— Adapted from a recipe provided by Vicky Murphy, Inland Seafood.

Fried Oyster Salad

Vegetable oil, for frying

24 small- to medium-sized oysters, shucked

2 egg whites

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup cornmeal

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 tsp. pepper

1/2 lb. arugula

Lemon Dressing (see recipe)

Lemon wedge, for garnish

In a deep skillet, heat 1/4-inch vegetable oil to very hot.

While oil is heating, whisk egg whites together in a pie plate and set aside.

In another pie plate, whisk together flour, cornmeal, salt and pepper.

When oil is ready, dip each oyster into egg whites, drain and then into flour mixture. Be sure all sides of oyster are coated with flour. Shake lightly to remove excess flour and carefully arrange in hot oil. When arranging oysters in pan, begin at outer edge and lay oysters in ring around outside of pan. Place a few oysters in the center. Do not crowd pan. When you finish laying out the oysters, the first ones will be ready to turn. Turn all oysters and cook just until they turn golden brown, about 2 minutes total. Remove from oil and drain. Keep warm and continue with remaining oysters if needed.

Divide arugula among serving plates. Arrange oysters on top of arugula and drizzle with Lemon Dressing. Serve immediately.

Discard remaining egg whites and flour mixture. Serves 4.

— Adapted from a recipe provided by Vicky Murphy, Inland Seafood.

Lemon Dressing

If you can’t find Meyer lemons (they’re in season right now) substitute 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice and 1 Tbsp. orange juice.

1/2 cup olive oil

1/4 cup fresh Meyer lemon juice

1/4 cup grated Parmesan

1 Tbsp. mayonnaise

2 tsp. minced garlic

Salt and freshly ground pepper

In a small bowl combine olive oil, lemon juice, Parmesan, mayonnaise and garlic. Whisk together, taste for seasoning. May be made ahead and refrigerated up to 1 week. Bring to room temperature before using. Makes 1 cup.

— Adapted from a recipe provided by Vicky Murphy, Inland Seafood.