MUSIC

Austin on the road: Carolyn Wonderland and Dale Watson in Amsterdam

By Joel Weickgenant
SPECIAL TO THE AMERICAN-STATESMAN
Sunday, May 17, 2009

You won't find many two-steppers in a Dutch crowd.

That doesn't mean Texas roots music doesn't move them: they express their passions differently, as Dale Watson pointed out before his show in Amsterdam earlier this month.

"They're more excited about you being there, there's definitely more of an appreciative crowd," he said. "In general, I find they like to party."

Watson and Carolyn Wonderland both traveled through Amsterdam at the beginning of May, as part of European tours. If you found yourself in Holland and happened to be homesick, their shows offered a great opportunity to see a pair of Austin ambassadors in action: musicians who have for years carved out a small but involved fan base in this decidedly un-honky-tonk European capital.

Wonderland: Home away from home

With its dark, inviting interior and walls covered with Texas paraphernalia — from Townes Van Zandt posters to Kinky Friedman campaign stickers — Amsterdam's Maloe Melo could pass as Saxon Pub East. Forget the damp chill and the canal that flows out front, and you might think you're back on South Lamar Boulevard.

This is where Wonderland fell for the Amsterdam scene — seven years ago or eight, she can't be sure.

"The first time I came here I actually sat right here. I was in the front room doing a song swap," she said. "And I started playing (Doug Sahm's) 'Goodbye San Francisco, Hello Amsterdam.' Everybody knew all the words. I was like, that's pretty awesome."

On a Tuesday night, a modest crowd hemmed in the stage. She threw down her usual blistering set of Janis Joplin-touched soul and fiery Telecaster blues, and fans focused with intensity. But only after a couple members of the audience joined her for a number did Wonderland proclaim: "Now I feel like I'm at home." The rest of the audience limbered up as well. Wonderland had just democratized the stage.

Jan "The Lazyman" Van Doorn, after grabbing a washboard and jumping onstage, said artists like Wonderland — who said she'll be coming to Amsterdam two or three more times this year — create lasting ties between the Austin music scene and cities like Amsterdam.

"The key is starting little," said Van Doorn, who is also a promoter and plays occasionally in Austin. "You see Wonderland here all the time. Maloe Melo is her base, and I help her look for gigs."

Watson: Devoted country fans abroad

Watson's gig at Amsterdam's famed Paradiso venue had the feel of a family gathering. He's been playing the Netherlands circuit for at least 15 years.

Wilco Mulhuyzen followed Watson and his Lone Stars to two shows on this tour.

"You don't hear this music on the radio. These guys are not that often coming to the Netherlands, so \u2026 when he's in town, I try to see as much of him as I can," Mulhuyzen said. "I'm from Delft and Dale Watson has a bond with Delft."

This was a Thursday night, and Watson shared with the crowd his sadness over the death of Randall "Poodie" Locke. Fans shouted out requests, and Watson addressed people by first name. Nobody did any two-stepping. But the sound of dozens of people chanting "That's country my (expletive)" in a Northern European twang would warm the heart of any Austinite.

Joel Weickgenant is a former Austin writer and musician now living in Amsterdam. He writes this story as part of an occasional series we call 'Austin on the road,' checking in with Austin bands as they play other cities and countries.