XL Food & Drink: On the Side

Jorge's

Same name but different food

The waitress made it easy.

Mark Matson
FOR AMERICAN-STATESMAN

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Jorge's has been a fixture on Hancock Drive for years.

Mark Matson
FOR AMERICAN-STATESMAN

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Sisters Diane, left, and Sylvia Veloz took over Jorge's four years ago.

Mark Matson
FOR AMERICAN-STATESMAN

(enlarge photo)

Give the homemade pumpkin flan a try.

Jorge's

• 2203 Hancock Drive
• 454-1980
• Rating: Forks up.
• Price: Cheap.

Trying to decide between the carne con chile verde, a dish of pork stewed with Anaheim and poblano peppers, and the chile relleno lampriados, I asked the server which one she favored.

Without actually answering that question, she responded that if I wanted something different I should try the rellenos. She had worked in Mexican restaurants for more than 20 years, she said, "and I've never seen anything like it."

Sold.

The two roasted Anaheim peppers ($10.95) — one stuffed with ground beef, the other with cheese — were coated in an egg-white batter and fried, giving them the appearance of peppers embedded in crêpes frilled with meringue around the edges. They were topped with a salsa española made with tomatoes and peppers and served with guacamole, charro beans and rice.

That's not the only thing that's different. The chicken flautas ($9.50) were thicker and much longer than the typical appetizer size found at most places. They also were topped with the salsa española and accompanied by refried beans and rice.

The recipes at Jorge's, an Austin fixture for decades under other ownership, come now from Tacos Garcia in Amarillo. Jorge's has been under the Veloz family's flag for four years.

The deluxe nachos ($10.95), covered with refried beans and tender fajitas, were good, but not unusual.

Dessert, on the other hand, brought a creamy, homemade pumpkin flan ($3.95) with the flavor of a spicy pumpkin pie.

Those who assume Jorge's is still the same place it was for years should try the restaurant again. I know I'll be going back.