Pho Hoang

Go for the pho (whatever they put in it)

By Dale Rice
American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
August 16, 2001

It was not the response I expected.

"I don't know," said the man operating the cash register when I asked what spices were used to impart such a distinct flavor to the broth that was the base of the pho, a Vietnamese noodle soup.

"The ol.... More

Go for the pho (whatever they put in it)

By Dale Rice
American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
August 16, 2001

It was not the response I expected.

"I don't know," said the man operating the cash register when I asked what spices were used to impart such a distinct flavor to the broth that was the base of the pho, a Vietnamese noodle soup.

"The old man in the back," he continued, "he puts all kinds of things in it. I have no idea."

Well, whatever goes in, the result is captivating.

A perfume that seemed to intermingle the essence of cardamon and cloves, with perhaps a dash of cinnamon, wafted from the bowl the moment it was set before me.

"Smell this," I said, pushing the large bowl of pho ($5.30) across the table for my companions to sniff. One had her spoon in it before I could pull the bowl back.

"That's wonderful," she said, as my other dining partner and I grabbed our spoons to sample the broth, a dark, rich, beef base that contained noodles, sliced steak and brisket.

She continued to dip in my bowl throughout the meal.

While the pho was our favorite, we enjoyed other dishes at Pho

Hoang, a small, simple Vietnamese restaurant just off Burnet Road on Rutland Drive in North Austin.

The translucent spring rolls ($2.50 for two) were filled with shrimp, pork, vegetables and vermicelli, while the summer rolls ($2.50 for two) were stuffed with shredded pork skin, pork and vegetables.

The vermicelli with shredded pork, shredded pork skin and egg rolls ($4.95) was a chilled entree for the most part (only the egg rolls were warm).

The crushed rice with grilled chicken ($4.65) featured short-grain rice that had a texture somewhere between couscous and long-grain rice. It was topped with tender, juicy pieces of chicken that tasted as though they had been marinated before being grilled.

The restaurant also serves a number of traditional beverages, including coffee with condensed milk ($1.80) and iced club soda with salted plum ($1.80), which was too salty for my taste and too sweet for one of my companions.

Pho Hoang, a reader's suggestion, is a wonderful find. It's worth a 30-minute drive from South Austin just for the pho.

Brief