Driskill Grill

The elegant Driskill Grill is under its third executive chef in less than two years, with Jonathan Gelman now at the helm since Josh Watkins' departure in April. Watkins' fast and fabulous stint in the top role followed star chef David Bull, who put himself and the hotel restaurant on the national culinary map in his eight years there before leaving in March 2007.

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The elegant Driskill Grill is under its third executive chef in less than two years, with Jonathan Gelman now at the helm since Josh Watkins' departure in April. Watkins' fast and fabulous stint in the top role followed star chef David Bull, who put himself and the hotel restaurant on the national culinary map in his eight years there before leaving in March 2007.

Turnover after a long period of stability (Watkins worked with Bull for years) like this is bound to be reflected in the dining experience, and a long dinner here recently on a Saturday night produced a few bouts of unevenness. However, some menu standouts more than made up for those.

Gelman, most recently of L'Auberge Restaurant in Sedona, Ariz., has a deep background in five- and four-star restaurants at hotels and resorts in Arizona and California, including Napa Valley. His long experience with French and Mediterranean-influenced cuisine is a suitable match for what people expect of the Driskill.

The formal yet warmly inviting dining room promises a special evening, Texas-French style. But there is just enough stiffness that compels you to sit up straighter and try not to eavesdrop. After my companion and I were escorted by an almost alarmingly low-voiced hostess, we found this was extremely hard to do. We were seated in a section of mostly couples, and because of our proximity, we all seemed to engage in conversation that was conscious of being overheard.

What a perfect time for cocktails, yes? Drinks in hand, we considered the menus before us and tried to figure out the differences between the options of four first courses and four second courses. When queried, our somewhat distant yet attentive waiter explained that the first courses were cold, the second courses were hot. Well, except for the oysters on the half shell.

No matter. Almost every option tempted with its sophisticated and at times surprising combinations. The waiter assured me I was not insane for wanting two dishes from the second course instead of choosing from the first, so I ordered the oysters ($18) and the asparagus parsnip soup, poured over a brioche topped with lobster salad ($14). We also tried the prime beef carpaccio with American sturgeon caviar, capers and truffled Dijon aïoli ($18) and pan-seared diver scallop featuring a petite crabcake and chive hollandaise ($18). For our entrees - one of the hardest decisions I've made in a while: Dijon crusted Colorado lamb chops ($38) and herb crusted axis venison on wild mushroom risotto ($46).

I was mildly surprised not to receive an amuse bouche, and we weren't brought the wine list until well after the cocktails had disappeared.

Though extensive, the wine selections are certainly on the pricey end, with only a couple of the dozens of bottles available for less than $40. We went for a 2006 Adelsheim pinor noir, a beautifully fruity wine that at $78 was overpriced, but delightful.

Of all the dishes, my standout was the oysters on the half shell, which were topped with a black pepper vinaigrette and herb salad. Each bite was followed by a sip of the delicately strong muscadet and elderflower shooter in the center of the plate. The lamb, served over dauphinoise potato with rosemary jus, was cooked as ordered and although it didn't send me to the moon, it was lovely.

Bull and Watkins weren't the only big Driskill names to leave over the past year and a half: Pastry chef Mark Chapman also departed in 2007, handing over the dessert reins to the impeccable Tony Sansalone - long one of our city's top pastry chefs.

Craving something with some chocolate - and still dreaming of my oysters and muscadet shooter - I opted for the Guanaja hazelnut crunch bar ($9), which was served with a little glass of a malted milkshake. The liquid was an inspired way to ingest something sweet after such a rich meal. We also ordered a cheese sampler ($18) plate, with each served with the appropriately divine accompaniments of honey, nuts and spreads.

In this economy, it's important for the diner to get the most out of his or her experience. You're not just paying for food - you're looking for an escape, even if it's to someplace familiar. The Driskill Grill - which, by the way, offers a quite reasonable $65 per person three-course tasting menu with a choice between two entrees - still delivers on all counts. I would just recommend a few more economic additions to the wine list.

Brief