2006 XL Dining Guide

Two-star restaurants

Friday, November 03, 2006

Abuelo's Mexican Food Embassy. Provides a choice of upscale, interior Mexican food or more basic Tex-Mex. The bacon-wrapped, jalapeño-stuffed shrimp were tasty, as were the beef tenderloin medallions. The grande platter must be the biggest plate of Mexican food in Texas. Moderate. 2901 S. Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360). 306-0857.

Banderas: A Texas Bistro. Overall, the food is delightful and artfully presented. Excellent tapas-style dishes included the venison loin, lamb chops, quail, Bibb salad and prickly pear cheesecake. Moderate. 9721 Arboretum Blvd. (in the Renaissance Hotel). 795-6100.

Baxter's on Main. Offering fine dining in Bastrop, Baxter's treats its customers to classics such as chicken Marsala over angel hair pasta, trout Provencal with fennel and red and yellow bell peppers and filet mignon Bernaise, crowned with spinach, crab meat and a succulent, made-to-order Bernaise sauce. Moderate. 919 Main St., Bastrop. (512) 321-3577.

Bordeaux's. This new upscale restaurant in the heart of Kyle combines Cajun and Continental influences. Tasty dishes include a wonderful smoked pork chop, a butternut squash soup finished with cream and white wine, fried strips of portobello mushroom and chocolate cake. HHHII Moderate/expensive. 108 Center St., Kyle. (512) 268-3463.

Capitol Brasserie. This inviting new restaurant in the Warehouse District brings late-night dining and a different style of French fare to downtown Austin. The menu offers mixed results, but the steak with fries and the mussels were delicious, as were the profiteroles and the lemon tart. Moderate. 310 Colorado St. 472-6770.

Carrabba's Italian Grill. With an impressive level of service, particularly for families, this should be a chain of choice for Austin diners. Excellent appetizers include the fried calamari and mussels steamed in white wine, while the veal Marsala and chicken-filled 'mezzaluna' ravioli are tasty entrees. Moderate. 6406 N. Interstate 35 (Lincoln Village). 419-1220.

Chinatown. Owner Ronald Cheng's 'chef's specialties' include Hunan duck rolls, rabbit in orange sauce and 'two little lambs' (one sweet, the other spicy). The atmosphere is upscale, with red and black walls, red lacquered chairs and tables covered in white linen. Cheap/moderate. 3407 Greystone Drive. 343-9307.

Cool River Cafe. One of the largest restaurants in Texas combines an upscale steakhouse and bar under one roof. On the meal side, the filet mignon served on a portobello mushroom cap with brandy peppercorn sauce was a winner. Good salads and big desserts augment the steaks. Expensive. 4001 Parmer Lane. 835-0010.

Dan McKlusky's. The shrimp cocktail with cucumber-corn relish and the fall-apart blue crab cakes were excellent starters at this bustling, friendly Sixth Street spot. The certified Angus beef tenderloin could easily be cut with a fork, and the strip steak was coated with black peppercorns and topped with cognac cream sauce. For dessert, try the individual apple cake, baked in a mason jar. Expensive. 301 E. Sixth St. 473-8924.

Doña Emilia's. This Colombian restaurant's upscale relocation has enhanced and diversified the downtown dining scene. Good choices include the ceviche, patacones rellenos (fried plantain cups filled with shredded beef or chicken) and the churrasco, a thin, grilled steak. Moderate. 101 San Jacinto Blvd. 478-2520.

Hill Country Grill. This San Marcos spot occupies a bank building made famous in movies and by the Newton brothers crime gang. Good choices include an eggroll version of a Reuben sandwich, grilled shrimp and well-made salads. Moderate/expensive. 100 W. Hopkins St., San Marcos. (512) 396-6100.

Houlihan's. Just the kind of place city officials would want next to the Austin Convention Center. It offers welcoming service, generous portions and a rooftop bar with a great view. Standouts include the fried mushrooms stuffed with herb-and-garlic cream cheese, the prime New York strip steak, babyback ribs, grilled shrimp and mini desserts. Moderate/expensive. 309 E. Third St. 474-5757.

Houston's. Popular enough to pack the place on a midweek night, serving a classic prime rib and thick pork chop, both of which were tender and flavorful. Start with the locally renowned, secret-recipe spinach dip and finish with a nicely tart key lime pie. Moderate/expensive. 2408 W. Anderson Lane. 451-7333.

Iron Cactus. This modern Mexican restaurant is much-improved, with sophisticated cuisine found at few other places in the area. Appealing dishes include the ahi tuna ceviche, carne asada con adovo (thin slices of zestily seasoned prime sirloin) and Yucatán fish tacos. Try the delicious refried black beans. Cheap/moderate. 10001 Stonelake Blvd. 794-8778.

Kobe Japanese Steakhouse. Kobe might have the best food of the growing number of Japanese grill and sushi places in Austin, but a slip in service cost it a star. The sushi offered fresh fish and colorful presentations, and the grilled meats and fish were full of flavor. Moderate/expensive. 13492 Research Blvd., Suite 380. 288-7333.

La Vista at the Hyatt Regency. Nails two vastly different styles — continental and Tex-Mex. On the Tex-Mex side, the eatery is famous for its fajitas, serving an average of 1,000 pounds a week of the thin strips of beef cut from the flap steak. Items like beautifully seared scallops emphasize the continental influence. Moderate. 208 Barton Springs Road. 477-1234.

Maiko. This Japanese sushi restaurant had a problem with consistency. Items worth ordering again included the cucumber sunomono, the miso-marinated sea bass over vegetables and the udon bowl, which was full of noodles in a delicious broth topped with tender chicken breast. Moderate/expensive. 311 W. Sixth St. 236-9888.

Malaga Tapas & Bar. This Spanish-style tapas and wine bar offers diners an alternative. They can eat lightly, two or three plates at a time, across a broad spectrum of meats and vegetables, ending at any point when they are pleasantly satisfied. Moderate. 208 W. Fourth St. 236-8020.

Mars. A good stop on virtually any dining trajectory. The tandoori pork tenderloin was tender, flavorful and still moist. Potstickers, hummus and spring rolls made a good start, while the crème brûlée and homemade ice cream were a good finish. Moderate. 1610 San Antonio St. 472-3901.

McCormick & Schmick's Seafood Restaurant. Bringing a big name to the city, with a national reputation built around a substantial menu of fresh fish that changes twice daily: lunch and dinner. Tasty entrees include sea scallops, halibut and shellfish in a zesty tomato sauce. Expensive. 401 Congress Ave., 236-9600.

Melting Pot. The fondue restaurant provides a sense of intimacy and private dining seldom found in modern restaurants. Appetizers include various forms of cheese fondue, while the entree fondues permit cooking of meat, seafood and vegetables in broth. Chocolate fondues wrap up the experience. Expensive. 13343 U.S. 183 N., Suite 350. 401-2424.

Monzi's Fine Cuisine. Here are two good reasons to make a stop in Giddings: the lovely 1870s ambience and the delightful fare of Monzi's. Good dishes include the shrimp Diablo and fried green tomato appetizers and the Atlantic salmon and lamb chop entrees. Moderate. 155 W. Austin St., Giddings. (979) 542-2201.

Old Pecan Street Cafe. Represents the heyday of Old Austin, a time when dining — and life — was a lot simpler. Good, unpretentious fare includes the steamed artichoke, shrimp cocktail, steak Bordeaux and grilled salmon. Crêpes, cakes and pies lead the lineup of homemade desserts. Moderate. 310 E. Sixth St. 478-2491.

Palmer's. A solid, upscale respite in a town full of college-oriented eateries. Tasty dishes included the penne pasta with sun-dried tomatoes and cream sauce and the habanero-honey glazed pork chops. For an unusual dessert, try the tiramisu with bananas. Moderate. 218 Moore St., San Marcos. (512) 353-3500.

P.F. Chang's (downtown). While Chang's is friendly and relaxed, it's possible to have dishes rich in flavor or ones that spark little interest. The Cantonese pork medallions, wonton soup, hot-and-sour soup and shrimp dumplings were more interesting than the Mongolian beef and Cantonese duck entrees and the Szechwan-style long beans. Moderate. 201 San Jacinto Blvd. 457-8300.

The Range at Barton House. At this upscale restaurant in a lovely historic structure in Salado, the food doesn't always match the setting. Items that did rise to the occasion included lobster bisque, warm field greens salad, the surf and turf entree and two desserts: the warm chocolate cake and the housemade sorbets. Expensive. 101 N. Main St., Salado. (254) 947-3828.

Reed's Jazz & Supper Club. With a combination of boisterous bar and tranquil, sophisticated dining, Reed's has set itself apart from the competition in Northwest Austin. Very good dishes include the steak tartare, calamari, Reed's salad, sea scallops and chocolate bread pudding. Expensive. 9901 N. Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360), Building 1, Suite 150. 342-7977.

Rio Grande. The first Texas location in a Colorado chain of Tex-Mex restaurants does things right. Dishes worth a repeat visit include the queso verduras (onions, peppers and mushrooms in melted cheese) with homemade flour tortillas, the steak fajitas and the camarones 'diabla' (shrimp in a spicy chile de arbol sauce). Moderate. 301 San Jacinto Blvd. 476-8300.

Romeo's. The cozy Italian cafe has quietly edged across the sometimes hazy line between casual and fine-dining spots, with upgraded service, free valet parking and a piano-bar ambience. Its moderately priced menu features good pastas (grilled ravioli or shrimp over linguine), pizzas (try the one topped with sausage and meatballs) and desserts. Moderate. 1500 Barton Springs Road. 476-1090.

Ruggles Grill. With the same menu as the original Ruggles in Houston, the restaurant offers value-oriented, family-friendly food, from pizza to pasta to entrees to more than a dozen desserts. It is noted for the eight side dishes, including a wonderful butternut squash purée, that accompany entrées. Moderate/expensive. 701 S. Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360). 330-9847.

Sampaio's. A sophisticated spin on Brazilian fare. The picanha grelhada, a traditional cut of beef in Brazil, is presented in a modern fashion over chunks of fried yuca and sautéed green beans. Camarão ao molho de cachaça featured jumbo shrimp sautéed in cachaça (a Brazilian liquor) with garlic, butter, tomatoes, onions and peppers to produce a delicious sauce. Moderate. 4800 Burnet Road, 469-9988.

Selene's Bistro. Tucked away in Leander is a friendly place as unpretentious as its prices. Good selections include the pork loin stuffed with apricots and prosciutto, the baked brie with garlic toasts and the chocolate decadence, a wonderful flourless chocolate torte. Moderate. 1906 S. Bagdad Road, Leander. 528-9595.

South Congress Cafe. Good regionally inspired food from the upscale place owned by Trudy's, the Tex-Mex chain. Outside the Southwest, the mushroom stroganoff is a wonderful vegetarian entree. However, the restaurant can be miserably loud when packed. Moderate. 1600 S. Congress Ave. 447-3905.

Suzi's China Grill. Suzi's has built a sophisticated sushi bar as the setting for the seafood-and-rice combos. From the Chinese fare, the garlic beef and three appetizers (chicken lettuce wraps, sesame scallops and spicy tangy pork dumplings) were good choices. Moderate. 7858 Shoal Creek Blvd. 302-4600.

Texas Land & Cattle Co. Combines a relaxed approach with upscale touches. The spinach and artichoke dip was a spicy version of the popular appetizer. My companion ordered the cowgirl's rib-eye and I selected the silver spur filet. Both steaks, grilled over mesquite, were tender, moist and cooked to order. Moderate. 1101 S. MoPac Blvd. (Loop 1). 330-0030 .

Tokyo Steakhouse and Sushi Bar. A family-pleasing spectacle at La Frontera in Round Rock, with eight grills and spatula-twirling chefs who entertain the kids with shrimp tossing and please the parents with tender rib-eye and teriyaki chicken. The sushi — fatty salmon, yellow tail and eel — was fresh, and the orange and seven-fish rainbow rolls sparkled with color. Moderate. 201-D Sundance Parkway, Round Rock. 388-7896.

Tokyo Teppan. A welcome addition to an area of the city that has little sophisticated dining. Serving a wide range of Japanese appetizers, sushi and entrées cooked tableside on hibachi grills. The sushi is on par with that of many of the city's better restaurants, and there's a substantial entertainment factor in watching the chef manipulate food on the grill. Moderate. 7010 Texas 71 W., No. 200. 288-3788.

Tree House Italian Grill. This restaurant is gaining fans of its unusual version of cannelloni: the pasta envelops spinach, sautéed mushrooms, artichoke hearts, basil and garlic in a white wine sauce with thin strips of veal scaloppine that have been sautéed separately on the side. Other delicious fare included the steamed mussels in marinara and the pork tenderloin. Moderate. 2201 College Ave. 443-4200.

The Veranda. Modest prices and an extensive menu — 43 entrées plus Tex-Mex specialties, burgers and more than 20 salads — mark this new restaurant. Tasty items include the chicken liver pâté, hummus, quail in pineapple-ginger sauce and tuna Oscar topped with creamy crab and asparagus. Moderate. 2525 W. Anderson Lane. 300-2660.

---

Star ratings: No stars: Poor to acceptable; Flawed, but shows promise; Good;

Very good; Excellent; Extraordinary. Price ratings: Cheap: $10 or less per entree. Moderate: $11-$19. Expensive: $20 or more. Austin360.com/restaurants: Read the reviews.

Talk of Austin

Restaurant critic Dale Rice is out with his annual list of the city's top restaurants. Do you agree with Dale's picks? Any restaurants that should -- or shouldn't -- have made the list? Let us know. Post your comment.