2006 XL Dining Guide

Three-star restaurants

Friday, November 03, 2006

Asti Trattoria. An upscale neighborhood trattoria that has a reach beyond Hyde Park, Asti is full of tasty Italian fare. The linguine with clams in a white wine sauce is delicious, as are the stuffed mushrooms, pizzas and desserts, including the decadent chocolate cannoli. Moderate. 408-C E. 43rd St. 451-1218.

Austin Land & Cattle Co. The very good food and knowledgeable service pair as nicely as steak and cabernet sauvignon. Two delicious entrees were the Shiner-beer-battered jumbo shrimp and the New York strip steak, cooked a perfect medium-rare. The creamy crème brûlée provided a tasty finish. Expensive. 1205 N. Lamar Blvd. 472-1813.

Backstage Steakhouse. They might call it Backstage, but chef Raymond Tatum's food deserves a spotlight. Vibrant dishes include the crab cakes, the jalapeño corn cake with crawfish, the spinach salad with poached pears and goat cheese, the rack of pork with pineapple chutney, and the prime strip steak served with onion rings. Moderate/expensive. 21814 W. Texas 71 in Spicewood. 264-2223.

Buenos Aires Cafe. Argentinian Reina Morris founded this home of alluring flavors (try the spicy beef empanada), first-rate pastries (the black and white chocolate tart with raspberries is wonderful) and exquisite dinner specials (the gnocchi is lovely). By day, it's more of a casual place, but at night the linens and fresh flowers come out, with a full waitstaff for service. Moderate. 2414 S. First St. 441-9000.

Carmelo's. This lovely upscale Italian restaurant in a historic building in downtown Austin delivers on the classics, such as fettuccine carbonara, veal piccata and chocolate profiteroles. Expensive. 504 E. Fifth St. 477-7497.

Cedar Grove Steakhouse. As the name suggests, the menu is strong on tasty beef (especially hand-cut steaks), served with a choice of 13 sides. But that doesn't mean all other courses are secondary. The luscious lavender-white chocolate cheesecake, made by executive chef John Galindo III, was one of the best I've had in years. Moderate. 9595 RM 12, Wimberley. (512) 847-3113.

Chez Nous. Over the past two decades, Chez Nous could have grown stale; instead, the small downtown bistro has remained vibrant and fresh. It's an approach that continues to charm me, with delicious dishes, such as escargots, pâté, scallops, duck confit, crêpes and profiteroles. Moderate/expensive. 510 Neches St. 473-2413.

Chez Zee. It's a welcoming place where you feel at ease lingering over coffee and desserts that are among the best in the city, such as the coco leches, lemon-rosemary and chocolate decadence cakes. For starters, you can't miss with the chicken Gorgonzola pizza. Moderate. 5406 Balcones Drive. 454-2666.

Clay Pit. Contemporary Indian cuisine has found a home in the historic Bertram Building near the Capitol. The fare covers dishes such as mussels in a curry sauce, coriander-crusted calamari, beef vindaloo (a stylized stew), khuroos-e-tursh (a chicken breast stuffed with mushrooms, onions, peppers and nuts) and a nationally renowned mango cheesecake. Moderate. 1601 Guadalupe St. 322-5131.

Eastside Cafe. There's something for everyone. It's comfortable and relaxed and offers real value for the money. And I like the emphasis on fresh herbs and vegetables, often from the garden behind the old house. Sesame catfish with garlic mashed potatoes, wild mushroom crêpes, field green salad with raspberry vinaigrette and warm goat cheese, chocolate silk pie and cherry cobbler are all favorites. Moderate. 2113 Manor Road. 476-5858.

Eddie V's Edgewater Grill. Downtown or at the Arboretum, Eddie V's is one of Austin's strongest seafood restaurants. Particularly good items included the all lump crab cake, the fried oysters with Thai chile sauce (so fiery they should be eaten only after other appetizers) and the sautéed grouper. The Gulf snapper was lovely, with golden fillets topped with lump crab meat and lemon chive butter. Save room for dessert, particularly the coconut cream pie. Moderate/expensive. 9400-B Arboretum Blvd. 342-2642. 301 E. Fifth St. 472-1860.

Emerald Restaurant. The tasty soda and treacle breads opened, followed by a spectacular onion soup. The 'Dublin lawyer' featured two lobster tails simmered in heavy cream and Irish whiskey between layers of puff pastry, while the 'Pride of Erin' duck, roasted with a rasher of bacon over the breast, was served over stuffing with a brandied cherry sauce. Expensive. 13614 Texas 71 West. 263-2147.

European Bistro. This Pflugerville bistro serves primarily Hungarian food, along with a smattering of other items from that region of the world. Delicious fare includes Russian pierogis, hen soup, goulash soup, jägerschnitzel, chicken with a paprika-sour cream sauce and crêpes with sweetened cheese and cranberry marmalade. Moderate. 111 E. Main St., Pflugerville. 835-1919.

Fino. Emmett and Lisa Fox's second location (they also run Asti) has been a big success, with delightful fare, snappy service and a sophisticated ambience. The menu features 'small plates,' such as fried calamari, lamb-beef meatballs and Middle Eastern dips and 'big plates' such as lamb chops, braised cod and a terrific coq au vin. Moderate/expensive. 2905 San Gabriel St. 474-2905.

Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar. The meats, service and ambience are outstanding, but some of the appetizers and sides aren't of equal quality. Favorites include the crab cakes, New York strip, veal chop, onion rings, sautéed mushrooms and chocolate lava cake. Expensive. 320 E. Second St., 457-1500.

Green Pastures. One of Austin's strongest three-star restaurants improves with the years. It has a welcoming Victorian ambience and food designed for today's diners. Strong items included fried eggplant with shrimp, crab and crawfish; tomato-basil soup; spinach salad; smoked prime ribeye; and bread pudding. Expensive. 811 W. Live Oak St. 444-1888.

Gumbo's. Chef-owner Michael Amr has a magical Cajun-Creole touch, plunking Louisiana down in the heart of Austin. Delicious fare includes the chicken and sausage gumbo, rainbow trout stuffed with a shrimp-crawfish filling and the hearty pork tenderloin. The oysters Rockefeller and the bread pudding are exemplary. Moderate. 710 Colorado St. 480-8053.

Hill Country Dining Room. The special touches — the complimentary glass of champagne, the seared-scallop amuse-bouche, the lavender-pear sorbet palate cleanser — were dazzling at this Barton Creek Resort and Spa restaurant. Other highlights included basil gnocchi, frisée and watercress salad and roast lamb loin. Expensive. 8212 Barton Club Drive. 329-7923.

Kenichi. A beautiful place — from the setting to the sushi. At this offspring of the Aspen restaurant, the strong points were the sushi (the Kenichi special roll of tuna, snow crab, cucumber, avocado and masago) and appetizers (the shiitake negimaki was tender beef rolled around mushrooms and green onions, and the miso soup was the best in town). Expensive. 419 Colorado St. 320-8883.

Koreana. Part of the explosive growth in Asian restaurants with sushi bars, Koreana is a sophisticated spot in far North Austin. The beef rib bulgogi and classic Japanese Katsu (made with chicken breast) were delicious, as were the Korean condiments and miso soup. Moderate. 12196 N. MoPac Blvd. (Loop 1). 835-8888.

Las Palomas. At this longtime restaurant in the Westwood Shopping Center at Walsh Tarlton Lane and Bee Cave Road, 90 percent of the customers are repeat visitors. That's due to the welcoming attitude and interior Mexican fare. Good entrees include the cochinita pibil (pork), shrimp in lemon sauce and steak chimichurri, while the flan and tres leches cake are a delightful finish. Moderate. 3201 Bee Cave Road. 327-9889.

La Traviata. Chef owner Marion Gillcrist serves classic Italian cuisine with a subtle twist, including crisp polenta with Gorgonzola cream sauce, spaghetti Bolognese with a veal-beef-pork ragu sauce, duck confit over a potato-fennel gratin with a Madeira-fig sauce and calamari puttanesca with a spicy tomato sauce and large rings of wonderfully tender squid. Moderate. 314 Congress Ave. 479-8131.

Louie's 106. From the small starters to the sweet finish, the Mediterranean-inspired spot delivered a solid performance. Enjoyable dishes included the tapas (fried olives, calamari and grilled asparagus), Andalusian gazpacho, Parmesan-crusted veal scaloppine and grilled pork chop. Moderate/Expensive. 106 E. Sixth St. 476-1997.

Main Street Grill. Executive chef John Tomlinson and a fine waitstaff keep standards high at this Round Rock spot with savory green chili cheesecake, Asian duck springrolls, venison medallions and ruby trout. Moderate/expensive. 118 E. Main St., Round Rock. 244-7525.

Manuel's. Continues to shine with regional Mexican dishes. Flavor-packed choices include the campechana of poached seafood and salsa fresca, chicken with mole and cheese, corn soup, a unique tortilla soup with a spicy ancho chile base, the chile relleno stuffed with pork and the fantastic flan. Moderate. 10201 Jollyville Road. 345-1042.

Mesa Ranch. With the ambience of a West Texas steakhouse and the food to match, this new spot in Northwest Austin should be attracting diners from way beyond its neighborhood. Dishes that deserve ordering include the smoked pork babyback ribs, the fried jalapeños and the grilled quail. Moderate. 8108 Mesa Drive. 853-9480.

Moonshine. The restaurant, located in a historical compound, serves a delectable 'flat iron' steak and delicious horseradish-crusted salmon, both with impressive vegetables and sides (such as the macaroni and cheese). And don't pass up the skillet apple pie. Moderate. 303 Red River St. 236-9599.

Ms. B's. Simple, unadorned food — dishes that rely on exquisite cooking, not presentation or creativity. The gumbo left a New Orleans native sighing in satisfaction. The vibrant crawfish bisque was equally enticing. The chicken jambalaya and the garlic shrimp and oysters over pasta were delicious. Moderate. 8105 Mesa Drive. 372-9529.1050 E. 11th St. 542-9143.

Musashino. Those who avoid sushi because of an aversion to raw seafood can enjoy the cooked forms and do a little comparison tasting at the same time, particularly with eel prepared three ways. This Japanese restaurant is the best sushi spot in Central Texas (perhaps far beyond). Moderate/expensive. 3407 Greystone Drive. 795-8593.

North by Northwest. With a work ethic and an attitude that keep the restaurant welcoming, this brew pub serves some very good food with its beer. The beef tenderloin with blue cheese scalloped potatoes and the chicken breast with roasted red pepper mashers were delicious. The frozen chocolate terrine remains a favorite. Moderate. 10010 N. Capital of Texas Highway. 467-6969.

Patton's on Main. Chef-owner Patton Robertson showcases regional cuisine with a spicy kick in downtown Marble Falls. The chicken-fried pork loin is delectable, as are the fried calamari and rock shrimp. Desserts are big enough to share. Moderate/expensive. 201 Main St., Marble Falls. (830) 693-8664.

P.F. Chang's China Bistro. Every aspect of the meal was pleasurable. The surprise hit was the Szechwan asparagus, 2-inch pieces of asparagus stir-fried crisp-tender with garlic and sliced onions. The atmosphere is classy, with a long, curved bar, dark wood tables, stone walls and a high ceiling with suspended disk lights. Moderate. 10114 Jollyville Road. 231-0208.

Restaurant Jezebel. Chef-owner Parind Vora balances out some early rough spots with grilled Romaine salad, peekie toe crab cake and a 10-hour braised lamb shank. Expensive. 914-C Congress Ave. 499-3999.

Roaring Fork. The Austin branch of this Arizona restaurant serves upscale cowboy cuisine in the InterContinental Stephen F. Austin Hotel, scoring well with honey-jalapeño shrimp with spinach and portobello mushroom enchiladas and a beef short rib entree with greens, spicy matchstick potatoes and red onion marmalade. For dessert, try the Mystic tequila cheesecake with key lime curd and strawberry-mango-serrano salsa. Expensive. 701 Congress Ave. 583-0000.

Russo's Texitally Café. This Marble Falls restaurant offers Italian food with a Lone Star twist. Generous in spirit and portions, Russo's features tasty dishes such as the pollo picante, a chicken fettuccine Alfredo with jalapeños, and the seafood Giovanni that combines scallops, shrimp and penne pasta in a rich wine-and-cheese sauce. Moderate. 602 Steve Hawkins Parkway, Marble Falls. (830) 693-7091.

Ruth's Chris. It doesn't get any better than this: Prime beef is aged, cooked under an 1,800-degree broiler (almost instantaneously searing the outside and locking the juices inside), lightly seasoned with salt, pepper and parsley and served on a plate heated to 500 degrees, with a dollop of butter that rapidly melts and sizzles for minutes after the steak is delivered. Expensive. 107 W. Sixth St. 477-7884.

Saba Blue Water Cafe. Launched around the idea of serving small plates meant for sharing, Saba has moved beyond appetizer fare, including mahi mahi with a lemongrass cream sauce and grilled bananas and pepita-crusted chicken with goat cheese bread pudding. Moderate. 208 W. Fourth St. 478-7222.

Satay. Worth singling out for its fresh and lively approach to Thai cuisine. Satay was one of Austin's pioneers in the expanding Asian field when it opened in 1987. Highlights include the chicken satay, Pad Siam (a shrimp and bean thread dish) and Tiger Cry, grilled flank steak in a highly zesty vinaigrette. Moderate. 3202 W. Anderson Lane. 467-6731.

Shogun. A South Austin neighborhood alternative to high-design Japanese show restaurants. The fresh, clean-tasting sushi included large yellowtail and tuna portions, and the spicy salmon skin and eel rolls shared accolades with the unusual 'tiger eyes' roll, with salmon and avocado inside a thick cover of grilled squid. Crisp shrimp tempura, sweet beef short ribs and pan-fried gyoza rounded out the experience. Moderate. 1807 W. Slaughter Lane, No. 225. 292-1580.

Shoreline Grill. This eclectic restaurant on the shore of Town Lake featurers both regional flavors and American bistro dishes. Executive chef Dan Haverty's Texana influence includes dishes such as a venison chorizo quesadilla, while his seared sea scallops with a garlic-Dijon-butter sauce, pistachio goat cheese polenta and baby vegetables signal the length of his reach. Expensive. 98 San Jacinto Blvd. 477-3300.

Sullivan's Steakhouse. A classy, dark-wood ambience, attentive service and a very good steak continue to pull in diners. Steaks such as the bone-in Kansas City strip and cowboy ribeye pack a lot of flavor, as do sides such as the creamed spinach, mushroom caps and horseradish mashed potatoes. Expensive. 300 Colorado St. 495-6504.

Taverna Pizzeria and Risotteria. The first of the dining spots in the new Second Street shopping and entertainment district, Taverna is leading the area in the right direction. It offers a mix of classic and modern Italian cuisine, including tasty focaccia, fried calamari, balsamic risotto with chicken, and pasta with pear and Gorgonzola. Moderate. 258 W. Second St. 477-1001.

34th Street Café. This quiet spot with a solid mix of longtime favorites and seasonal dishes succeeds in its mission to put out a simple, good meal. Good choices include crunchy shrimp, gazpacho, chicken piccata and coconut cake. Moderate. 1005 W. 34th St. 371-3400.

Thistle Cafe. It's a bustling, casual place at lunch and a quiet, fine-dining spot at dinner in Davenport Village, with a high level of service to complement the food. Good menu choices include the spicy ceviche appetizer, the pork tenderloin entree and the chef-made desserts. Its offshoot, Thistle on Sixth, offers seasonal hits such as stuffed free-range chicken breast over a sprout salad and a trio of sorbets. Moderate/expensive. 3801 N. Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360). 347-1000. 300 W. Sixth St., Suite 103. 275-9777.

Travis Restaurant. A worthy destination for more than just Lakeway residents. The young staff could out-serve many comparable places in town. There was good food to boot, including baked stuffed shrimp, duck and spinach salad and a dessert seldom seen at restaurants: angel food cake. Moderate/expensive. 101 Lakeway Drive. 261-7323.

Truluck's. A reliably good place for fresh seafood in the Warehouse District. Recommended dishes include the hot and crunchy trout, bacon-wrapped shrimp, crab cakes and buttermilk-soaked calamari. Moderate/expensive. 400 Colorado St. 482-9000.

Truluck's (Arboretum). This Northwest Austin location shows a chain that has charted a course toward distinction. The piano-bar ambience features delectable stonecrab claws for which the restaurant is famous, hot and crunchy trout and giant prawns. Expensive. 10225 Research Blvd., Suite 4000. 794-8300.

Vin. The menu has evolved under chef Sean Fulford to include pesto-marinated sea bass served tower-style over fingerling potatoes and haricots verts, grilled shrimp with oregano-arbol aïoli and pork tenderloin with wild mushroom polenta. Fried brie and mixed greens with cantaloupe vinaigrette began a night of well-paced service and romantic ambience. Moderate. 1601 W. 38th St., Suite 1. 377-5252.

Z'Tejas. It's old vs. new Austin. Sleek vs. funky. Stylish vs. comfy. That's the choice of ambience, but whether it's the Sixth Street or Arboretum locations, the quality is high, especially for the signature chicken-fried ribeye and the Navajo taco. Other hits: Southwestern barbecue spring rolls, shrimp tostada bites, chicken artichoke stack, crab-stuffed chicken and stuffed pork tenderloin. Moderate. 1110 W. Sixth St. 478-5355; 9400-A Arboretum Blvd. 346-3506.

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Star ratings: No stars: Poor to acceptable; Flawed, but shows promise; Good;

Very good; Excellent; Extraordinary. Price ratings: Cheap: $10 or less per entree. Moderate: $11-$19. Expensive: $20 or more. Austin360.com/restaurants: Read the reviews.

Talk of Austin

Restaurant critic Dale Rice is out with his annual list of the city's top restaurants. Do you agree with Dale's picks? Any restaurants that should -- or shouldn't -- have made the list? Let us know. Post your comment.