2006 XL Dining Guide

Amid the high-rises, the options expand

By Dale Rice
AMERICAN-STATESMAN RESTAURANT CRITIC
Friday, November 03, 2006

There might be no better gauge of the local dining scene than a stroll down one block of downtown Austin around 9:30 p.m. — even on weekdays.

Inevitably (assuming it's not raining), there will be diners and imbibers sitting at outdoor tables along that stretch of Second Street between Colorado and Lavaca streets.

They are attracted there by Taverna Italian restaurant, Jo's coffeehouse-eatery and Cru wine bar, as well as Austin Java in City Hall, all relatively new additions to the city's restaurant roster.

These three spots, along with the nearby Cantina Laredo and the III Forks steakhouse (which opened less than two weeks ago), epitomize the surge in upscale dining that is taking place in downtown Austin.

More spots are on the way within weeks. Lou Lambert, who had Lambert's on South Congress Avenue, will be opening a new steak and barbecue place across the street from City Hall. Will Packwood, the founding chef of the five-star Emilia's (now Moonshine), will be returning to the central business district with Cibo on Congress Avenue near 10th Street.

But good times for restaurants aren't limited to a few blocks of revitalization in the heart of the city. Appealing options are springing up elsewhere.

Adolfo's Cafe Flameante is serving inviting Mexican fare on Texas 71 between Austin and Bastrop, for example, while Phil's Ice House is offering great burgers in North Austin and a second Ms. B's is bringing Cajun-Creole flavors to East Austin, just to name a few.

That doesn't mean the past year has been a trouble-free one. Restaurants remain one of the riskiest businesses with a high failure rate, and many shut their doors in 2006.

We even lost one of last year's Top 10 spots, Little Texas Bistro in Buda, when chef-owner Paul Petersen closed the tiny place and moved to the Gage Hotel in Marathon to work his magic at the stove in West Texas.

Still, this is an exciting time for dining in Central Texas. The best fine-dining restaurants, in fierce competition, continue to raise and surpass expectations. Casual eateries, including those offering a wide range of ethnic fare, continue to improve.

And when it's a good time for restaurants, it's an even better time for consumers. We who dine out have had a scrumptious year, and 2007 should bring more of the same.

drice@statesman.com; 445-3859

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