2006 XL Dining Guide

Four-star restaurants

Friday, November 03, 2006

Andiamo. The classic fare is delectable, making this one of the top Italian restaurants in the area. Outstanding options at the restaurant at Burnet Road and Rutland Drive include sautéed calamari over soft polenta, veal-stuffed ravioli in a mushroom sauce, fennel salad with white truffle oil, shrimp filled with crab and wrapped with prosciutto and veal Sorrentina with eggplant and fontina cheese. Moderate. 2521 Rutland Drive. 719-3377.

Bellagio. Delicious dishes include the city's best fried calamari, the Sicilian seafood platter piled high with mussels, clams, shrimp and scallops over tagliatelli pasta in a tomato-and-red-wine broth and the restaurant's version of eggplant Parmesan. Expensive. 6507 Jester Blvd. 346-8228.

Bistro 88. This Rollingwood favorite now offers sushi on a par with some of the best spots in Austin. From the new-style sashimi section, the salmon rolls were spectacular. Other rolls and sushi were superb. Dishes such as the rack of lamb from the main menu remain top-notch. Expensive. 2712 Bee Cave Road. 328-8888.

Cafe Josie. The zesty flavors of the 'American tropics' sail especially well on the fruits of the sea. Excellent lobster cakes, shrimp potstickers and trout with blue crab salad are a few of the dishes that make the small cafe one of Austin's best seafood spots. Expensive. 1200-B W. Sixth St. 322-9226.

Castle Hill Cafe. The longtime Southwestern bistro that has been running without a hiccup for years continues to meet high expectations. Dishes that won't let you down include the lamb empanadas, pork and chicken dumplings, fried goat cheese and the pecan-sage crusted pork loin with grits and a vegetable chow-chow. Moderate/expensive. 1101 W. Fifth St. 476-0728.

Finn & Porter. Executive chef Christopher Bauer has brought this high-end restaurant at the downtown Hilton into the ranks of the city's best with offerings such as his smoked Pacific 'BBQ' oysters, swathed in melted Gruyere, garlic-lemon Bernaise sauce and wild onion-morel relish, and pan-smoked white sturgeon perched on a bed of corn-and-bacon risotto. Expensive. 500 E. Fourth St. 493-4900.

Fonda San Miguel. One of Austin's premier restaurants for nearly 30 years and one of the best-known places in the United States for interior Mexican cuisine. Classic fare includes an outstanding ceviche, a chile relleno stuffed with finely shredded pork and crêpes with caramel sauce and ice cream. Moderate/expensive. 2330 W. North Loop Blvd. 459-4121.

Mirabelle. This upscale Northwest Austin bistro has become one of the city's top restaurants by maintaining a balance on its menu, with high-quality seafood, meat and vegetarian offerings. Outstanding choices include the falafel (a Middle Eastern vegetarian item), herbed lamb loin, smoked pork porterhouse and lemon-orange tart. Moderate/expensive. 8127 Mesa Drive. 346-7900.

Siena. Produces an authentic taste of Tuscany in an exquisite meal that showcases executive chef Harvey Harris at the top of his form. Can't-miss dishes include the wild boar appetizer, ravioli stuffed with spinach and artichokes, boneless lamb loin and wood-grilled salmon. Expensive. 6203 N. Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360), Building B. 349-7667.

Vespaio. Turning out Italian dishes that are a cut above expectations, mixing tradition and innovation as easily as salt and pepper. Seductive fare includes the spaghetti carbonara (with handmade pasta), wood-fired Toscana pizza (with housemade sausage), polenta-stuffed pork loin and gnocchi with duck. Expensive. 1610 S. Congress Ave. 441-6100.

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Star ratings: No stars: Poor to acceptable; Flawed, but shows promise; Good;

Very good; Excellent; Extraordinary. Price ratings: Cheap: $10 or less per entree. Moderate: $11-$19. Expensive: $20 or more. Austin360.com/restaurants: Read the reviews.

Talk of Austin

Restaurant critic Dale Rice is out with his annual list of the city's top restaurants. Do you agree with Dale's picks? Any restaurants that should -- or shouldn't -- have made the list? Let us know. Post your comment.