2006 XL Dining Guide

Casual restaurants

Places to dine well for less, from Chinese to Vietnamese

Friday, November 03, 2006

Ratings for casual restaurants: 'Forks up' indicates good food at good prices, worth a visit. 'Forks sideways' means a worthy place with room for improvement.

Price ratings: Cheap: $10 or less per entree. Moderate: $11-$19. Expensive: $20+.

CHINESE

Asia Chinese Restaurant. The Vietnamese sliced beef with lemon grass and chiles was an honest-to-goodness plate of fire. The tender beef, which had been stir-fried with onions and serranos, was so hot it made the top of my head sweat and my eyes water. Forks up. Cheap. 1931 E. Ben White Blvd., Suite 300. 445-5117.

China Dynasty. This longtime restaurant in the strip mall at Slaughter Lane and Manchaca Road serves dishes with a simple grace. Kung pao chicken, spicy shredded beef and pork with garlic sauce, each lightly coated in sauce, were delicious. Forks up. Cheap. 2110 Slaughter Lane, Suite 101. 280-3777.

Chinatown South. The key word here is 'light.' Dishes as disparate as beef on a flaming platter, shrimp cooked in foil and chicken with candied walnuts are united in spirit: Each has a delicious, light, savory sauce that augments rather than overwhelms the dish. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 3300 Bee Cave Road. 327-6588.

Fire Bowl Cafe. This popular place for families features Asian noodle and stir-fried dishes, including a create-your-own bowl of stir-fried vegetables, meats and sauce over rice. Menu items included coconut shrimp, Tokyo soba (with grilled salmon and broccoli florets), chicken lemon grass and Beijing ravioli (crisp pan-fried pork dumplings). The portions were large, the prices were reasonable and the quality was good. Forks up. Cheap. 5601 Brodie Lane No. 550. 899-8998.

Lotus Hunan Chinese Restaurant. This West Lake Hills strip-mall spot turns out tasty moo shoo pork and an appetizer tray that includes beef strips, fantail shrimp and sesame pork. If the restaurant is not especially busy, it will even make egg foo yong, which is not on the menu. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 3201 Bee Cave Road. 327-7776.

Marco Polo Chinese Restaurant. Finally, I've found a Chinese buffet I can recommend, with a large lunch selection and seating for a sizable crowd, though it's more expensive than most. The selections held up well on the steam table, thanks to the kitchen's smart choices and small-batch cooking to frequently replenish items. Forks up. Cheap. 2200 S. Interstate 35. 445-5563.

Pao's Mandarin House. Just the fragrant impression of a delectable dish is worth the ride to Lakeway when it comes to Pao's and its three-cup chicken, with chunks of dark meat nestled with sliced mushrooms in a spicy brown sauce flavored with basil. The spicy shredded Mandarin beef deserves a trip, too. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 2300 Lohmans Spur, No. 134. 263-8869.

Shanghai River. Several dishes on the vegetarian side of the lunch buffet — stir-fried spinach in ginger sauce, sautéed mushrooms with snow peas, eggplant with zucchini in a slightly sweet brown sauce and tofu in black bean sauce — were delicious. Skip the General Tso's, sesame chicken and other dishes that don't hold up on the steam table. Forks sideways. Cheap. 2700 W. Anderson Lane, Suite 419. 458-9598.

T&S Chinese Seafood Restaurant. A favorite hangout of local chefs, T&S has the right hours (until 1 a.m. except Tuesdays, when it closes at 10 p.m.) and even better food. The salt and pepper shrimp featured unpeeled shellfish coated with a salt-and-pepper batter and deep-fried. The chicken with black mushrooms, a clay pot item, and the shrimp roll appetizer were tasty. Forks up. Cheap. 10014 N. Lamar Blvd. 339-8434.

Wanfu. A Chinese restaurant with ample parking and good food only five to 10 minutes from downtown. Lunch entrees are generous, and the sliced duck in ginger sauce — heavily smoked duck with leeks, green onions, snow peas and ginger in a spicy brown sauce — was a winner. Forks up. Cheap. 2400 E. Oltorf St. 462-3535. 1806 Barton Springs Road. 478-3535.

CONTINENTAL/FRENCH

La Madeleine French Bakery & Cafe. For those times when only real butter, real cream and real egg yolks will do, La Madeleine is there with French desserts such as almond croissants, éclairs, puff-pastry Napoleons and berry tarts. Other favorites include rich tomato soup, Caesar salad and quiche Florentine. Forks up. Cheap. 3418 N. Lamar Blvd. 302-1486.

DELIS

Hog Island Italian Deli. Send your tastebuds to the Northeast by devouring sandwiches popular in that part of the country. Hog Island offers a great Philly cheese steak, with melted cheese, shaved beef and grilled onions on a soft bun, and tasty hoagies featuring a variety of Italian cold cuts, such as mortadella and soppressata. Forks up. Cheap. 1612 Lavaca St. 482-9090.

Katz's Deli. A virtual institution in this city, the 24-hour deli continues to serve good food. In addition to the thick sandwiches and a good burger, try some of the dinner specials, such as the open roast beef sandwich or the half roast chicken (both with two sides). Forks up. Cheap. 618 W. Sixth St. 476-3354.

Manny Hattan's. If you're hankering for a taste of New York, you'll find it here, deliciously. The New York-style deli piles the meat high on sandwiches such as the Reuben, makes homemade soup daily and ships in the Carnegie Deli's cheesecake. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 9503 Research Blvd., Suite 650. 794-0088.

NeWorlDeli. This standout among the sandwich spots delivers sandwiches constructed with care, with pride for the ingredients. Excellent choices include the flavorful meatloaf, thick Reuben and delicious curried chicken salad. Homemade soups are good, too. Forks up. Cheap. 4101 Guadalupe St. 451-7170.

GREEK

Athenian Grill. Full-service Greek cuisine has come downtown for dinner. This casual, cafeteria-style spot at lunch offers wait service at night. In addition to the delectable assortment of traditional appetizers, the combination plate features gyro and chicken, with several other items such as cheese pie and a meatball. Forks up. Moderate. 705 Colorado St. 482-8988.

Konstantino's. Billing itself as serving 'Thessalonika style Greek dishes and New York style Italian dishes,' Konstantino's is adding to the culinary diversity in Bastrop. Tasty Greek fare includes a sample platter of appetizers, souvlaki (grilled pork tenderloin) and traditional desserts such as baklava. A good Italian offering is the grilled eggplant Parmesan. Forks up. Moderate. 1412 W. Texas 71, Bastrop. 581-3232.

Tino's Greek Cafe. This cafeteria-style spot draws a crowd throughout the lunch hour. The make-your-own plate offers a choice of meats, soup or salad and three sides. Favorites included baba ghanoush (roasted eggplant, garlic and tahini), hummus (a creamy mix of chick peas and tahini) and tabbouleh (a salad with cracked wheat.) Forks up. Cheap. 13450 Research Blvd. 336-5999.

Zorba Greek Restaurant. This reasonably-priced restaurant offers satisfying, traditional Greek cuisine, including spanakopita (phyllo pastry filled with spinach and feta cheese), dolmades (stuffed grape leaves) and moussaka (layered eggplant meat and cheese). Forks up. Cheap. 2601 S. Interstate 35, Round Rock. 716-0100.

INDIAN

Indian Palace. The lunch and dinner buffets are worthwhile, with several stewlike choices: mushrooms and green peas in a creamy brown sauce, beef in a homemade curry sauce, saag paneer (chunks of homemade cheese in creamed spinach) and chicken tikka masala (pieces of tandoori roasted chicken in a wonderful tomato and butter sauce). Forks up. Cheap. 3616 Far West Blvd., Suite 113. 241-1732.

Swad. An Indian vegetarian restaurant that can please even meat-eaters with its spicy and flavorful food. Don't-miss dishes include the samosa (stuffed pastries) and the dosa (stuffed lentil crêpes). Forks up. Cheap. 9515 N. Lamar Blvd., No. 156. 997-7923.

Taj Palace. The Far East comes to the table here, with a variety of Indian fare. Meat from the tandoor oven was flavorful, while the smooth curry sauce of the roganjosh held chunks of tender lamb. Appetizers and desserts were good, too. Forks up. Moderate. 6700 Middle Fiskville Road. 452-9959.

IRISH

Mother Egan's Irish Pub. For a twist on Irish fare, try the corned beef and cabbage sandwich at this pub with an extensive menu. Hot corned beef, sautéed onions and cooked cabbage are piled with shredded Cheddar cheese on a hoagie roll, producing a thoroughly enjoyable lunch. Other items, such as the fish and chips, were equally good. Forks up. Cheap. 715 W. Sixth St. 478-7747.

ITALIAN/MEDITERRANEAN

Al Capone's Italian Kitchen. A great place for an old-fashioned red-sauce fix. Start with fried beef ravioli or sausage wrapped in eggplant topped with marinara and provolone. For a main course, the large, breaded veal Parmesan came with salad and spaghetti. The misto plate included cannelloni with spinach and beef, spaghetti with meat sauce, eggplant Parmesan and lasagna. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 2601 Interstate 35, Round Rock. 238-7666.

Brick Oven. The Southwest Austin location of this local Italian chain draws a grateful crowd with tomato-basil-garlic bruschetta, chicken rigatoni with chipotle pesto cream sauce and pizza with a flavorful, chewy crust. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 9911 Brodie Lane, Suite 600. 292-3939.

Brick Oven on 35th. A small, quiet, neighborhood restaurant, this Brick Oven is an independent franchise of the Austin original. But it serves equally good food, including the multigrain-crust pizza, which is baked in a wood-fired oven, and pasta dishes such as spinach ravioli and fettuccine Alfredo. Forks up. Moderate. 1608 W. 35th St. 453-4330.

Ciola's. This casual red-sauce restaurant in Lakeway is serving some of the best lasagna in Texas, along with delicious mussels in a spicy tomato sauce, homemade sausage (with lots of fennel seed) and baked gnocchi. Forks up. Moderate. 1310 S. RM 620, Suite C-1. 263- 9936.

Cipollina. A neighborhood, Italian-style deli owned by Jeffrey's with a case full of prepared items — from pasta and meat to pricey side dishes — that can be heated on the spot for lunch. It also makes a thin-crust pizza more like that of Italy than most places. Forks up. Moderate. 1213 West Lynn St. 477-5211.

Craig O's Pizza & Pastaria. This South Austin independent Italian restaurant appears to be a big hit. It offers tasty pizza on thick or New York style thin crust, a range of pasta dishes (including a baked spinach ziti) and generous salads. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 4970 W. U.S. 290, Suite 460. 891-7200.

Hill Country Pasta House. This spot near Mansfield Dam can satisfy your craving for good Italian fare. The thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas and classic pastas fill the plate with traditional Italian food that's fairly hard to find in Austin. Forks up. Moderate. 3519 N. RM 620. 266-9445.

Italian Garden Restaurant. Serving hearty, traditional red-sauce food around town for almost four decades. From its current strip-center location, expect four-course dinners with chicken minestrone soup, salad, a mini cheese pizza and entrees such as sausage and cheese cannelloni or beef scaloppine served with lasagna. Forks up. Moderate. 14611 FM 1325. 388-1062.

Macaroni Grill. Two of the 'Romano family recipes' — veal saltimbocca and pasta Milano — were tasty. The tender veal, stuffed with prosciutto and spinach, was served with a side of spaghetti, while the pasta Milano combined grilled chicken, sun-dried tomatoes, mushrooms and bowtie pasta in garlic cream sauce. Forks up. Cheap/Moderate. 701 E. Stassney Lane, Building B. 693-9076.

Mandola's Italian Market. Based on the crowds, the customers love this new market and its self-serve dining even if the critic has misgivings. The salads are tasty (too bad there aren't half-sizes), the pizza is delicious and some pastas (such as the ravioli of the day) are on the mark. But it can be an expensive meal for a self-service place. Forks up. Moderate. 4700 W. Guadalupe St., No. 12. 419-9700.

Mangieri's Pizza Cafe. Already a school-night magnet for children and their parents, Mangieri's serves Northeastern-style pizzas, including the Sicilian with sausage and peppers, along with spicy chicken wings and respectable pasta dishes. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 5900 W. Slaughter Lane, No. 490. 301-0063.

Milto's Pizza Pub. Whether your pizza preference is thick or thin, Milto's can meet it. Beyond pizza, there's a pasta lunch special that includes garlic bread, iced tea, a salad and a roll for one low price, as well as a few Greek items, such as feta- and cream-cheese tyropitas. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 2909 Guadalupe St. 476-1021.

Pronto Italiano. Its name might conjure up the image of fast food, but Pronto Italiano prepares most dishes to order. There are classic items, such as hearty spaghetti with meatballs and lasagna and a variety of combination pasta dishes, from Mediterranean to Cajun, as well as wood-fired pizzas. Forks up. Cheap. 3620 S. RM 620. 263-7404.

Reale's Pizza and Cafe. There's more than good pizza here. The lasagna and veal piccata entrees were tasty, and the cannoli, a classic dessert, was delicious. Forks up. Moderate. 13450 N. U.S. 183. 335-5115.

360 Uno. This Italian cafe's tasty pizza had a crust that was baked to an even, medium brown and was a bit thicker, softer and chewier than the thin, crisp style I tend to think of as Italian. 360 Uno also features a range of pastas and desserts imported from Italy. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 3801 Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360), No. G-100. 327-4448.

Vinny's Italian Cafe. Offering nearly all its dinner items for less than $10, Vinny's concentrates on pasta and chicken dishes. Good choices include the chicken Sophia, a breaded chicken breast stuffed with cheese and spinach on a bed of fettuccine, the beef lasagna and a hearty appetizer platter. Forks up. Cheap. 1003 Barton Springs Road. 482-8484.

JAPANESE

Zen Japanese Food Fast. Now a chain with three locations, Zen just keeps getting better. Tasty dishes at the quick-service, Japanese restaurant include prepackaged sushi and prepared-to-order bowls such as the heart-healthy white chicken and broccoli and my favorite, the hibachi bowl of tender beef in a teriyaki sauce over udon noodles. Forks up. Cheap. 3423 Guadalupe St. 300-2633.

KOREAN

Korea House. This restaurant might be hidden off an interior courtyard of the Village Shopping Center, but it has no problem luring diners. The sushi is fresh, and traditional Korean offerings, such as the barbecue beef, are generous and tasty. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 2700 W. Anderson Lane, No. 501. 458-2477.

Korea Garden. A setting as authentic as the food, which included a kim chi pancake, yakkimandoo (meat-filled fried dumplings), seaweed salad, barbecued pork bul go gi and sweet bul gal bi (sliced from beef short ribs). In Korean fashion, meals come with multiple side dishes, including marinated sprouts, seaweed and spinach, kim chi, spicy cucumbers and strips of fish cake. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 6519 N. Lamar Blvd. 302-3149.

Koriente. Near the banks of Waller Creek, where owners Nam-Sook and Won Hee Lee have nurtured flower beds, Koriente sparkles with Korean comfort food, including kalbi pot roast, bulgogi with veggies and bibimbap brimming with julienne vegetables. Forks up. Cheap. 621 E. Seventh St. 275-0852.

LATIN AMERICAN

Elsi's Restaurant. This mother-daughter team — Elsi Padilla and Mirna Lemus — serves tasty tacos ahogados (flautas topped with a spicy avocado sauce), and the Salvadoran pupusas and the chicken in mole sauce also are delicious. Forks up. Cheap. 6601 Burnet Road. 454-0747.

El Zunzal. Serves tasty Salvadoran fare, including the fried yuca with fajita and the pollo frito a la tajada, a bone-in chicken breast that is spiced, grilled, fried, topped with a thick sauce of tomatoes, onions and peppers and ringed with fried plantains, radishes and cucumbers. Forks up. Cheap. 642 Calles St. 474-7749.

MEXICAN

Amaya's Taco Village. There's more than the name implies here. Besides great tacos, made from thick, large, golden corn tortillas, Amaya's serves tender fajitas and tasty carne guisada. Forks up. Cheap. 5405 N. Interstate 35. 458-2531.

Angie's Mexican Restaurant. The line at lunch is often long, especially on Wednesdays (rib day) and Thursdays (the carnitas special), but owner Angie Quintero keeps it moving by asking those in line to order before they're seated. Don't pass up the thick, homemade corn tortillas, which transform the fajitas and tacos into something special. Forks up. Cheap. 900 E. Seventh St. 476-5413.

Antonio's Tex-Mex. The father-son team of Rudy and Roger Mendoza has a simple formula that works like a charm: Make the plates big and bring them to the table steaming hot. Good options include the botana platter (a sampling of appetizers), the carne guisada and the chile relleno. One of three locations in the local chain. Forks up. Cheap. 16912 N. Interstate 35, Round Rock. 238-8969.

Azul Tequila. Tex-Mex in the truest sense of the word, Azul offers 'platos del interior,' dishes that reflect their Mexican roots, on one side of the menu and 'platos Tejanos,' items that stem from the Texas border, on the other. While the chicken fajitas from the Tejano items were good, the interior dishes were enticing, particularly the chile relleno stuffed with pork. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 4211 S. Lamar Blvd. 416-9667.

Baby Acapulco. When chicken soup is the prescription, head here for a flavorful, well-seasoned, lightly spiced broth that is packed with pieces of chicken and melted cheese. The Mexican restaurant also has an extensive offering of starters and specialty items. Forks up. Cheap. 1705-A S. Lakeshore Blvd. 447-1339.

Berryhill Baja Grill. There's a wide range of food to enjoy at this Houston-based spot. Tasty options include the grilled fish tacos, grilled beef tacos, tempura fried chimichanga filled with shrimp, and the spicy corn enchiladas. Cheap. Forks up. 3600 N. Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360). 327-9033.

Casa Garcia's. The bright, welcoming restaurant on South Lamar Boulevard is attracting a sizable lunch crowd with a long Tex-Mex menu. Good dishes include the chicken soup piled high with vegetables and the lightly fried chimichanga filled with beef, beans and rice and topped with chile con queso. Forks up. Cheap. 1000 S. Lamar Blvd. 851-8684.

Chuy's. The Mexican restaurant with the New Mexican twist belongs on an Austin dining map. Good — and reasonably priced — dishes include the appetizer plate, Chuychanga (a chicken burrito) and Rio Grande enchiladas (with carne guisada). Forks up. Cheap. 1728 Barton Springs Road. 474-4452.

Cilantro's Mexican Restaurant. This tiny, seven-table restaurant makes up in flavor what it lacks in size. Delicious dishes include the chori huevos (a breakfast item made with over-easy eggs and chorizo salsa), the fish fillets topped with fried garlic, the heated salsa and the homemade flan. Forks up. Cheap. 1025 Stassney Lane. 707-1207.

Curra's Grill. One of South Austin's most popular spots offers top-quality interior Mexican cooking. Recommendations: escabeche (pickled carrots, cauliflower, onions, garlic and jalapeños); punta de filete (chunks of beef tenderloin sautéed with mushrooms in a zesty chipotle sauce); and cochinita pibil (a traditional Yucatán dish of shredded pork leg cooked in a banana leaf). Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 614 E. Oltorf St. 444-0012. And 6801 Burnet Road. 451-2560.

Dario's Restaurant. Treats diners with equally good attitude and food. Fine lunches include green chicken enchiladas with rice, beans and guacamole, and the señorita special, with a crispy beef taco, guacamole salad and a cheese enchilada with chili con carne. The queso is tasty, too. Forks up. Cheap. 1800 E. Sixth St. 479-8105.

Dina's Mexican Restaurant. Tucked in the back corner of a strip shopping center, this unobtrusive restaurant is worth seeking out. Tasty items included the green salsa, migas, fajitas, enchiladas Mexicanas and the combo with a chile relleno, tamal and enchilada plus sides. Forks up. Cheap. 730 W. Stassney Lane, No. 130. 428-9425.

El Arroyo. An Austin institution (and a chain with three other locations), El Arroyo features good Tex-Mex food in a laid-back setting. For alternatives to the standard fare, try the bacon-wrapped shrimp diablo, the plump spinach enchiladas, the tequila chicken breast and fried ice cream. Forks up. Cheap. 1624 W. Fifth St. 474-1222.

El Azteca. Nearly four decades in the same family. The Guerra family keeps the Tex-Mex spot hopping with lots of heat. Jalapeños in the fresh salsa, jalapeños in the queso and jalapeños on the nachos, while the beans a la charra are among the spiciest (and best) I've had. Forks up. Cheap. 2600 E. Seventh St. 477-4701.

El Borrego de Oro. Once located on South First Street, this place has reopened on South Congress Avenue, and the food is as good in the new spot as it was in the previous one. Delightful dishes include the birria (a spicy lamb soup), carne a la Mexicana (grilled beef, onions, tomatoes and peppers) and chicken with chipotle sauce. Forks up. Cheap. 3900 S. Congress Ave. 383-0031.

El Chile Cafe y Cantina. Overall, the fare was good, but El Chile was overwhelmed by a big crowd. The result was a slow kitchen and slow service. From the menu, tasty items included the shrimp and beef fajitas, the chile relleno stuffed with pork and the shrimp in a chipotle barbecue sauce. Forks sideways. Cheap. 1809 Manor Road. 457-9900.

El Flaco. Irene and Flaco Martinez, whose restaurant name translates as 'the skinny one,' are attempting to make a healthier version of Tex-Mex cuisine. They boil most of the meat, as well as offering alternatives, such as soy-based chorizo and Eggbeaters in their breakfast dishes. In the process, the flavors remain strong and true. Forks up. Cheap. 3632 S. Congress Ave. 444-2767.

El Gallo. Located in the pink building with the large parking lot across from St. Edward's University, El Gallo has a widely varied menu with a dozen dinner specials such as baked young goat and chicken in mole, along with the typical fajitas, enchiladas, tacos and chalupas. There also are 10 lunch specials. Forks up. Moderate. 2910 S. Congress Ave. 444-2205.

El Jacalito. Not the most familiar Mexican place in Austin, but popular with those who know about it. An extensive lunch menu, including an especially enjoyable dish of pork and zucchini in a red sauce with vermicelli. Forks up. Cheap. 2030 E. Oltorf St., Suite 110. 445-4109.

El Jalisco's Mexican Restaurant. The parking lot here is often full, and there's a good reason: plentiful, tasty food at reasonable prices. The Jalisco nachos are topped with some of the best fajita meat around, the Tejano plate offers a hearty combo and the chipotle enchiladas are zestily appealing. Forks up. Cheap. 1419 W. Texas 71, Bastrop. (512) 303-0838.

El Meson. Knows how to ply the taste buds, particularly with dishes like squash blossom quesadillas, pipian (shredded chicken in a pumpkin-seed sauce), shredded beef enchiladas and the pork al pastor, cooked with tiny cubes of pineapple. Forks up. Cheap. 5808 Burleson Road. 416-0749.

El Patio. Simple, good and consistent since 1954. Appetizers include nachos and guacamole. Entrees include enchiladas, chalupas and tacos. For dessert, pralines with coconut and sherbet. Forks up. Cheap. 2938 Guadalupe St. 476-5955.

El Rey. We started with the puu puu platter before trying the chiles rellenos and the pork stew. The platter is almost a meal unto itself. The two cheese-stuffed peppers were fried and topped with a sweet golden raisin-pecan sauce. The Sonoran-style stew — tender chunks of pork with green chiles in a thick gravy — was served in a fried tortilla bowl. Forks up. Cheap. 4109 S. Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360). 443-1911.

El Sol y La Luna. Typifies the spirit and revitalization of South Congress Avenue, offering an array of worthy Mexican choices, including enchiladas, fajita salad, spinach quesadilla and chicken caldo. Forks up. Cheap. 1224 S. Congress Ave. 444-7770.

Enchiladas y Mas. This popular Tex-Mex restaurant in Northwest Austin packs its food with flavor the way it fills its tables with customers. Tasty dishes include the beef enchiladas with chili sauce, chicken enchiladas with green sauce and beef fajitas. Forks up. Cheap. 1911 W. Anderson Lane. 467-7100.

Evita's Botanitas. A break from typical Tex-Mex. Start with the salsas. Four very hot ones: black bean chipotle, garlic red, lime-based tomatillo and roasted pepper. One moderate: fresh tomato and cilantro. Then step up to the next level with entrees such as jalapeño-stuffed, bacon-wrapped shrimp in chipotle sauce. Forks up. Cheap. 6400 S. First St. 441-2424.

Freebirds World Burrito. Built-at-the-counter burritos tasty and thick with fresh ingredients. Diners choose the size, type of tortilla, regular fillings, main ingredient, sauces, freebies and extras. The prices are reasonable, and the tacos and quesadillas are just as good. Forks up. Cheap. Hancock Shopping Center, 41st and Red River streets. 451-5514.

Garibaldi's. A small Mexican restaurant with a tasty mix of border and interior cuisine, Garibaldi's has a growing base of fans. It's easy to see why after trying items such as the carne asada, sopaipillas and a delicious, fiery soup of fish, shrimp and vegetables. Forks up. Cheap. 4201 S. Congress Ave. 326-9788.

Habanero Mexican Cafe. This small Mexican spot owned by Evelyn and Arthur Ibarra uses marinades and a mesquite grill to produce delicious beef and chicken. As a result, the chicken in the quesadillas and enchiladas is among the most flavorful in town. Forks up. Cheap. 501 W. Oltorf St. 416-0443.

Hula Hut. Life in Austin almost seems idyllic when dining here on the deck that juts out over Lake Austin. The Mexican-Polynesian mix includes delicious queso compuesto (with fajita meat and guacamole in the queso), coconut shrimp and tubular tacos, particularly the steak version with green Hatch chile sauce. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 3826 Lake Austin Blvd. 476-4852.

Inocente's Cafe. The salsa, with a tomatillo base, is incredibly spicy. The chili con queso was thick and clingy. The green enchiladas and beef enchiladas were fairly dry, without a lot of sauce (a big change from those that swim in gravy). Those are the nuances that make a place like Inocente's enjoyable. Forks up. Cheap. 2337 E. Cesar Chavez St. 479-0218.

Joe's Bakery & Coffee Shop. Open for more than 60 years, Joe's Tex-Mex menu emphasizes beef. But don't stop with an enchilada or carne guisada plate: Indulge in the Mexican cookies and pastries from the bakery. Forks up. Cheap. 2305 E. Seventh St. 472-0017.

Jorgé Arredondo's Tex-Mex Cafe. Jorgé Arredondo's nachos compuestos were large, half-moon chips topped with beans, nicely seasoned taco meat and cheese, with guacamole, diced white onions and sliced jalapeños on the side. In the carne guisada dinner, the tender beef tips in a spicy brown gravy drew praise. The chicken was at the same high mark. Forks up. Cheap. 2804 N. Interstate 35.

Jorge's. This Tex-Mex favorite has been a fixture on Hancock Drive for years, but sisters Diane and Sylvia Veloz took over four years ago, delivering welcome surprises such as egg-white battered chile relleno lampriados, massive chicken flautas and housemade pumpkin flan. Forks up. Cheap. 2203 Hancock Drive. 454-1980.

Juan in a Million. The fiery, addictive salsa — among the hottest in town — sets the tone at this breakfast-and-lunch spot. Singe those sensors, and the food that follows seems spicier, and subtle nuances of flavor disappear. I like the salsa, but it alters the meal. Forks up. Cheap. 2300 E. Cesar Chavez St. 472-3872.

Julio's. This small, colorful Mexican eatery in the heart of Hyde Park serves particularly good chicken dishes, including the enchiladas with tomatillo sauce and the roasted chicken, with its crisp, peppery skin over moist, tender meat. Forks up. Cheap. 4230 Duval St. 452-1040.

La Casita. Tasty choices include beef fajita nachos (which include grilled onions) and pollo piki piki, a dish of sliced chicken breast in a spicy red sauce with spinach and mushrooms. Forks up. Cheap. 1519 W. Anderson Lane. 469-0105.

La Feria. We started with the quesadilla, and followed with the combination fajitas, vegetarian enchiladas and a chimichanga. The fajitas (chicken and beef) were tender and mild. The enchiladas — one was filled with fresh spinach and the other with poblano peppers — were topped with green sauce and melted Monterey Jack cheese. The chimichanga was filled with ground beef and pico de gallo and covered with melted cheese and green sauce (one of four choices). All were enjoyable. Forks up. Cheap. 2010 S. Lamar Blvd. 326-8301.

La Palapa. Even if your neighborhood Mexican restaurants are good, there are still reasons to drive across town: to see how other spots measure up. One good yardstick is La Palapa, the many-sided restaurant near Reagan High School, where you'll find big portions and high-quality in dishes such as the queso flameado, poblano-and-mushroom enchiladas and the picadillo chile relleno. Forks up. Cheap. 6640 E. U.S. 290. 459-8729.

La Terraza. Live mariachis accompanied a Wednesday night feast of house nachos, enchiladas verdes, pork-stuffed chile rellenos and flaky sopaipillas. Forks up. Cheap. 1605 E. Oltorf St. (on the northbound Interstate 35 access road). 444-0018.

Matt's El Rancho. The 50-year Austin institution founded by the late Matt Martinez Sr. and his wife, Jamie. Classics include the Bob Armstrong dip (a mix of queso, ground beef and guacamole), the chile relleno and the tender carne asada steak. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 2613 S. Lamar Blvd. 462-9333.

Maudie's Hacienda. The restaurant boomlet at Slaughter and Brodie lanes includes the noisy sixth link in this local Tex-Mex chain. Go for the beef fajitas with yellow and green bell peppers, the chicken enchiladas with mild Spanish sauce and the Rockin' Ruthann's dinner with chicken burritos and chili con carne. Forks up. Cheap. 9911 Brodie Lane, Suite 900. 280-8700.

Mexico Lindo. The queso vegetariano was a large chafing dish of Monterey Jack cheese with sautéed spinach and mushrooms. The puerco adobado was thin slices of pork in a mildly spicy red sauce with black beans, rice and avocado. The agujas clasicas featured tender pieces of beef fajita grilled on skewers with tomatoes, bell peppers, onions and mushrooms. All were good. Forks up. Cheap. 1816 S. Lamar Blvd. 326-4395.

Mi Madre's. For those who think all enchiladas are the same, try the No. 1 dinner, or any other plate that includes enchiladas with a 'red' sauce. The sauce, which is actually dark brown, is rich in flavor, with the very essence of chiles stimulating each zesty bite. Other good items include the chicken quesadilla and the tacos at this breakfast-and-lunch place. Forks up. Cheap. 2201 Manor Road. 322-9721.

Nueva Onda. A tiny breakfast-and-lunch restaurant with a welcoming ambience, Nueva Onda is the newest Tex-Mex place in an area heavy with border restaurants. It is making a place for itself with a small menu that includes gorditas — chicken or beef — on a lunch plate with a choice of sides (fideo, charro beans and calabacitas were good ones) and beef fajita quesadillas. Forks up. Cheap. 2218 College Ave. 447-5063.

Nuevo Leon. The large, airy, longtime Tex-Mex restaurant in East Austin serves generous portions of tasty fare. Good entrees include the steak Tampiqueño (a tender, 8-ounce sirloin steak topped with ranchero sauce) and the shrimp Saltillo, with grilled, butterflied shrimp in a tasty sauce. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 1501 E. Sixth St. 479-0097.

Olmecas Mexican Restaurant. The funky decorations in this small strip-mall spot might be leftovers from a previous tenant, but the Mexican food is 100 percent Olmecas' own. Try nachos Olmeca, with chile con queso, beans, tomatoes, avocado and fajita strips, or carne asada with nopalitos and grilled green onions. Breakfast choices include migas and eggs with chorizo. Forks up. Cheap. 2121 E. Oltorf St. 440-0809.

Pappasito's Cantina. This link in the Texas-based Pappas chain (Pappadeaux, Pappas Bros. Steakhouse, etc.) may be more expensive than typical Tex-Mex, but it delivers value with the oversized Pappasito's Superior plate (a beef taco al carbon, two chicken enchiladas, a tamale and rice and beans) and the Plato del Mar (fajitas and shrimp). Lower-priced standouts include spicy Morelia chicken tacos and beef-spiked chile con queso. Forks up. Moderate. 6513 N. Interstate 35. 459-9214.

Rosie's Tamale House. Operating on Texas 71 in Bee Caves for the past 33 years, Rosie's is a good example of the variations on a Tex-Mex theme. Tasty choices include the combination platters, such as the No. 1 with guacamole, crispy beef taco, queso, enchilada, tamal, rice and beans. The chicken enchiladas with the thick, zesty verde sauce are delicious. Forks up. Cheap. 13436 Texas 71 W., Bee Caves. 263-5245.

The Salado Mansion. A charming place in a tourist-friendly town, the Salado Mansion has a menu that reflects the regional heritage of both sides of the Texas-Mexico border, with items such as chicken-fried chicken, crisp catfish and pot roast sharing billing with fajitas, enchiladas and burritos. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 200 S. Main St., Salado. (254) 947-5157.

Santa Rita. In addition to its central location in the 26 Doors shopping center, folk-art ambience and patio seating, Santa Rita offers tasty Mexican food. Good dishes include the spinach and mushroom enchiladas (try them with the zesty tomatillo and milder sour cream sauces together), fajita tacos and chiles rellenos. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 1206 W. 38th St. 419-7482.

Tacodeli. The tacos are delicious. Beef. Pork. Chicken. Vegetarian. Each was over the top with flavor. My only complaint is the limited seating (about a dozen stools), which makes Tacodeli more of a take-out than a dine-in place. Open for breakfast and lunch. Forks up. Cheap. 1500 Spyglass Drive at Barton Skyway. 732-0303.

Taco Sabroso. The sleekest taco joint in town pulls in a disparate crowd, from East Side workers to the governor. They're going there for a variety of delicious tacos, including the pastor, steak ranchero, fajita and picadillo. There also are tasty Cuban-style sandwiches and Mexican plates. Forks up. Cheap. 5100 E. Seventh St. 247-3333.

Taqueria Chapala. This bright, colorful Mexican restaurant, located less than five minutes from the downtown business district, has a broad menu of standard items, including tacos and sandwiches — all at relatively modest prices. Good options include the chile con queso, fajita nachos, carne guisada and beef enchiladas with green sauce. Forks up. Cheap. 2101 E. Cesar Chavez St. 320-0308.

Texican Cafe. Good, hearty Tex-Mex fare with distinctive twists. Delicious items included the steak Fabian (cooked with onions and whole serranos), spinach enchiladas (with a tomatillo-cream cheese sauce), sopaipillas and chile con queso a la parrilla. Forks up. Cheap. 11940 Manchaca Road. 282-9094.

Tres Amigos. This longtime Austin chain delivers reliable, filling Tex-Mex. Highlights included stuffed jalapeños, queso del campo (queso, spicy ground beef, pico de gallo and guacamole), a fried chimichanga with chicken, tenderloin steak tampiqueño and mango ice cream. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 1801 S. Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360). 327-1776.

Trudy's South Star. The red and green salsas turn on the heat. Appetizers include chile con queso and beef fajita 'Texas Star' nachos. The mushroom enchiladas and stuffed avocado are tasty and generous. Both are covered with a zesty New Mexican green chile sauce and melted cheese. Forks up. Cheap. 4141 S. Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360). 326-9899.

Vivo Cocina Mexicana. Trendy Tex-Mex on a resurgent Manor Road. The smoked serrano and garlic salsa is addictive, as is the ancho-beef sauce that tops the chile enchiladas. Start with the crisp guacamole enchiladas and finish with a Mexican cannoli topped with strawberries and chocolate sauce. Forks up. Cheap. 2015 Manor Road. 482-0300.

MIDDLE EASTERN

Alborz Persian Cuisine. A lunch buffet worth going out for. The spread at this Persian restaurant features tasty hot dishes, including rice with sour cherries, saffron rice with chicken, squash and tomato stew, celery stew, baked chicken and ground beef kabobs. Forks up. Cheap. 3300 W. Anderson Lane, No. 303. 420-2222.

Ararat. A small, popular Middle Eastern restaurant, serving mainly Turkish and Persian dishes, with a mix of other countries. There are many good options, including the sizzling lamb and a vegetarian entree of bell peppers stuffed with rice, mushrooms, nuts and pomegranate seeds. Forks up. Moderate. 111 E. North Loop Blvd. 419-1692.

Marakesh Cafe & Grill. A good option for an inexpensive, filling lunch or dinner in downtown Austin. Hearty plates include the falafel and chicken with couscous offerings, both of which are served with hummus, pita bread and a green bean salad. Stuffed grape leaves are tasty, too. Forks up. Cheap. 906 Congress Ave. 476-7735.

PIZZA

Aljohn's. One of the few places serving a New York-style pizza, with abundant sauce, cheese and toppings. Forks up. Moderate. 1945 E. Oltorf St. 851-8686.

Austin Pizza Garden. A fondness for beef is emphasized in the Texas T-bone, a pie with tender, smoky strips of steak augmented with red onions, mushrooms, red and green bell peppers and fresh garlic. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 6266 U.S. 290 W. 891-9980.

Brick Oven. It doesn't get much better than this: a crisp, thin crust baked in a 100-year-old, wood-fired oven that imparts a light smoky flavor, with a good layer of sauce and mozzarella. Toppings included roasted portobello mushrooms, prosciutto and melted Gorgonzola. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 1209 Red River St. 477-7006.

Brooklyn Pie Co. If you savor pizza crust as much as artisan bread, head to this pizzeria in the La Frontera shopping center. Its outstanding crust is made daily from a 60-year-old family recipe and topped with high-quality ingredients. Forks up. Moderate. 2711 La Frontera Blvd., Suite 330, Round Rock. 255-1414.

Buca di Beppo. The menu calls the Neapolitan pizzas 'bathmat sized.' That's an exaggeration, but this is a large pie by any standard. The Spicy Arrabbiata featured four cheeses, pepperoni, caramelized onions and sausage on an ultra-thin crust. Forks up. Moderate. 3612 Tudor Blvd. 342-8462.

Cipollina. The Italian-style deli owned and operated by the folks at Jeffrey's is producing a pie similar to those found in Italy, with a thin crust and good sauce. Forks up. Moderate. 1213 W. Lynn St. 477-5211.

Frank & Angie's. Angie's Combo is an 18-inch vegetarian pizza with roasted garlic, cubed eggplant and sun-dried tomatoes with provolone and Romano cheeses. Meat lovers can opt for the Chairman of the Board, with pepperoni, sausage, red onions, green bell peppers, mushrooms and Romano cheese. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 508 West Ave. 472-3534.

Home Slice Pizza. An amazingly popular joint on South Congress Avenue with fabulous pizza or calzones one time, merely decent ones the next. Salads and desserts are consistently good. Forks up. Moderate. 1415 S. Congress Ave. 444-7437.

Mangia. Ample ingredients and good sauce highlighted both the thin and stuffed pizzas. The stuffed featured spinach with cheese and spices in a whole wheat crust. The thin Chicago Special, with a crisp crust, was covered in sausage, green peppers, mushrooms and onions. Forks up. Moderate. 2401 Lake Austin Blvd. 478-6600.. 8012 Mesa Drive, 349-2126. 3500 Guadalupe St. 302-5200.

Marye's Gourmet Pizza. The BST brings together great potential with spinach, bacon, Roma tomatoes, red sauce, Cheddar, smoked provolone and low-fat mozzarella.Forks up. Moderate. 3663 Bee Cave Road. 327-5222.

Niki's Pizza. The right place for a New York pizza fix, Niki's in Dobie Mall, on the edge of the University of Texas campus, produces an authentic Big Apple pie. The large 16-inch pizza had a crisp crust, good sauce, plentiful cheese and abundant pepperoni. Forks up. Cheap. 2025 Guadalupe St. 474-1876.

Roppolo's Pizzeria. Popular with the late-night Sixth Street revelers, this heavy-on-the-cheese pizza had an even distribution of meatballs and spinach (two of the specialty toppings). Forks up. Moderate. 316 E. Sixth St. 476-1490.

Rounders Pizzeria. One of the few places in Austin with a good New York-style pizza. The pies there have a crisp crust, ample sauce and abundant cheese, just like in the Big Apple. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 1203 W. Sixth St. 477-0404.

Saccone's. A New Jersey attitude that is equally at home in New York. The 18-inch pie was topped with abundant sliced Italian sausage and roasted red peppers, with a good balance of cheese and tomato sauce. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 13812 Research Blvd. 257-1200. 2701 U.S. 183. 259-1882.

Tony's Vineyard. The Margherita, with Roma tomatoes, chopped basil and smoked mozzarella, and the Fiorentina, with prosciutto, spinach, tomatoes, onions and roasted garlic, was a plate-sized pizza whose flavor far outdistanced its diameter. Forks up. Moderate. 2828 Rio Grande St. 476-5600.

SEAFOOD

Boiling Pot. The Cajun combo — one blue crab, a half-pound of shrimp (heads on), a half-pound of sausage, four half-ears of corn-on-the-cob and several new potatoes — was dumped on the butcher paper-covered table, ready to be eaten by hand. Forks up. Moderate. 700 E. Sixth St. 472-0985.

Mariscos Seafood Restaurant. In Mexico, the union of seafood and spice takes a mild main ingredient and turns on the heat with cilantro and serranos. A great example of that style can be found at Mariscos, where the menu includes shrimp, octopus, oysters and a whole fried catfish (served with french fries and coleslaw). Forks up. Cheap. 1504 Town Creek Drive. 462-9119.

STEAKHOUSES

Cattle Company Steakhouse & Saloon. An old-fashioned steak place where appetizer choices include fried pickles or onion rings and meals come with two sides. The 12-ounce Kansas City strip with a loaded baked potato and grilled mushrooms was cooked to a perfect medium rare. Forks up. Moderate. 608 W. Alamo St., Elgin. (512) 281-4926.

Saltgrass. Named after the legendary trail that longhorns followed from the Gulf Coast to market. The certified Angus steaks — 7-ounce filet and 12-ounce rib-eye — were tasty and tender, as was the cheesesteak sandwich. Sides and salads, including the baked sweet potato with cinnamon butter, were good, too. Forks up. Moderate. 2300 N. Interstate 35 in Round Rock. 238-0091.

THAI

Madam Mam's. A good spot for lunch, with food arriving quickly. Enjoyable dishes included the chicken pad Thai (noodles stir-fried with chicken and spices) and the guay teaw nuer sod (a flavorful beef soup). Forks up. Cheap. 2514 Guadalupe St. 472-8306.

Thai Tara. Owner Yupa Rushing is working hard to keep this cozy spot in top form. Two noodle dishes were delightful (the kee mao with beef and the udon tom yum, a spicy-sour soup with chicken), and the pad krapao, chicken stir-fried with vegetables in a zesty sauce, was delicious. Forks up. Cheap. 601 W. Sixth St. 236-0856.

VEGETARIAN

Mr. Natural. Offers the same quality vegetarian (including vegan) fare and whole-wheat bakery as the East Side original. There is an emphasis on Tex-Mex items in the cafeteria-style lunches, plus a number of tasty salads. Forks up. Cheap. 2414-A S. Lamar Blvd. 916-9223. 1901 E. Cesar Chavez St. 477-5228.

Mother's Cafe and Garden. The blueberry pie at this two-decade vegetarian haven had a housemade nondairy, whole-wheat crust and berries lightly sweetened with fructose. No butter, no refined white sugar, no guilt. I enjoyed meatless dishes such as queso con chiles and spinach mushroom enchiladas. Forks up. Cheap. 4215 Duval St. 451-3994.

Nu Age Cafe. Demonstrates that vegan fare can be as delicious as any other form of cuisine. Tasty dishes included the noodle soup with vegetables in tomato broth, sizzling soy, pine nut cup-ettes, berry soy pie and chocolate cake. Forks up. Moderate. 2425 Exposition Blvd. 469-9390.

Veggie Heaven. The fried spring roll, the tangerine mushroom entree and the Protein 2000 (fried slices of vegetable protein with broccoli, onion and garlic) all featured strong, interesting flavors. Forks up. Cheap. 1914 Guadalupe St. 457-1013.

VIETNAMESE

Hai Ky. The decor is bold and so are the flavors, from the mu tieu ap chao (sautéed peppers, carrots and broccoli with chicken, shrimp, beef and thick rice noodles) to the meat-filled egg rolls, huge bowl of wonton soup and zesty vegetarian mapo tofu. Also try the homemade lemonade and bubble teas. Forks up. Cheap. 1931 E. Oltorf St. 693-2464.

Hao Hao. The Vietnamese menu at this Chinese-Vietnamese spot in far South Austin offers a great change of pace. Delicious dishes include the shrimp with lemongrass sauce, beef with ginger root and the Vietnamese hot and sour chicken soup. Forks up. Cheap. 1901 W. William Cannon Drive. 447-8121.

Le Soleil. We started by making our own spring rolls from rice noodles, vegetables, herbs and grilled shrimp and pork. Vietnamese hot and sour chicken soup, packed with chicken, bean sprouts, tomato and pineapple, was enough to feed three. First-rate entrees included beef-rice clay pot, barbecued pork and fried sea bass. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 9616 N. Lamar Blvd. 821-0396.

Pho Hoang. It's worth a 30-minute drive from South Austin just for the pho, a Vietnamese noodle soup with a rich broth intermingling the essence of cardamon and cloves, with perhaps a dash of cinnamon. The crushed rice with grilled chicken also was a winner. Forks up. Cheap. 2521 Rutland Drive, Suite 400. 339-6002.

Tam Deli and Cafe. The Vietnamese cured ham rolls featured rice, vermicelli and fresh vegetables with rectangular pieces of 'ham.' The summer rolls offered shredded pork, vermicelli and fresh vegetables. The steamed rice cake wraps surrounded ground pork and black mushroom and were topped with a piece of pork roll. A banh choux, a French cream puff filled with custard, was a welcome finish. Forks up. Cheap. 8222 N. Lamar Blvd. 834-6458.

The Tea House. Despite a menu with more than 200 dishes, this Chinese-Vietnamese spot never loses sight of each individual dish. Delicious choices included the simmering pork in a clay pot, the spicy lettuce wraps and the young duckling with ginger root. Forks up. Cheap. 13376 Research Blvd., Suite 100. 335-0935.

Talk of Austin

Restaurant critic Dale Rice is out with his annual list of the city's top restaurants. Do you agree with Dale's picks? Any restaurants that should -- or shouldn't -- have made the list? Let us know. Post your comment.